R-Comps and Factory Camber

[Sebringjetta]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

Yep that was couple years ago so I probably use the car more effectively now but made me laugh. Only was I could heat the tires up any more on that day was be sideways all over.

ya once i came in i checked my temps and pressure...pretty sure my buddy wanted to see me push it just a little closer to the edge

[Porschefile]

If you're running hard enough to get much benefit from r comps you'll cord the outsides with stock camber (even with pins pulled). I corded outsides with -2.5+ camber.

[dapopa9]

If you want to run a Hoosier, NT01, or other R compound then you will want to have -2 to -3 camber. Which would require some type of camber plate setup. If you choose to run stock camber with the R compound you will quickly cord the outside of the tire. As others have said it is cheaper to buy the camber plate setup then to replace R compounds prematurely due to edge cording.

The downside to this is that if you are running this same -2 to -3 camber setup on the street you are going to quickly cord the inside edge of your street tire.

The optimal method would be to get adjustable camber plates that you can simply slide over while at the track and then slide back once you put the street tires back on. Or realign the car each time.

[Sebringjetta]

Originally Posted by dapopa9

If you want to run a Hoosier, NT01, or other R compound then you will want to have -2 to -3 camber. Which would require some type of camber plate setup. If you choose to run stock camber with the R compound you will quickly cord the outside of the tire. As others have said it is cheaper to buy the camber plate setup then to replace R compounds prematurely due to edge cording.

The downside to this is that if you are running this same -2 to -3 camber setup on the street you are going to quickly cord the inside edge of your street tire.

The optimal method would be to get adjustable camber plates that you can simply slide over while at the track and then slide back once you put the street tires back on. Or realign the car each time.

well put sir

[M3Captain]

Originally Posted by Porschefile

If you're running hard enough to get much benefit from r comps you'll cord the outsides with stock camber (even with pins pulled). I corded outsides with -2.5+ camber.

Wow -2.5 and not enough? What track was this?

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by M3Captain

Wow -2.5 and not enough? What track was this?

i run -3.5, granted on e46 and thinking it may not be enough either.

[Triple M]

Like most have said, you can't go wrong with oem setup even without pins pulled for your first hpde. You want to give yourself a chance to gradually find the car's limit on stock setup. Speed is everything, as you will probably be preoccupied with finding your way around the track, figuring braking points, turn in points etc on your first few session of your first day. Then as you pick up speed, you also begin to learn hot tire pressure and temp (on oem) setup begins to affect the car as you carry more speed.
Best mods for your your first hpde is good brake fluid and pad, especially if your instructor starts working with you on threshold and trail braking towards end of your weekend as you get faster. Make sure you are up to date on basic maintenance stuff. I know most people run through the tech form, but they really there to keep you safe and sure u have fun, come to an hpde with 10% pad left can be real PIA. Believe me, those street tires will go a looongg way with the right pressure setting especially if your helps achieve smoothness.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by admranger

Sure it does.

Step 1: get talked into your first track day.

Step 2: buy performance brake pads for stock braking system.

Step 3: Get that kewl set of wheels w/sticky R-compound rubber

Step 4: Cord new r-comps due to insufficient negative camber.

Step 5: Get camber plates and a single adjustable coil over system.

Step 6: Decide that the stock brakes just aren't up to the task, get BBK.

Step 7: Get data acquisition system so you can figure out why the guy in the stock M3 is passing you.

Step 8: Determine that a new triple adjustable, remote reservoir coil over system is just the ticket to catch that girl in the Miata that just ate your lunch through the esses.

Step 9: Get a tune so your rev limiter is higher and you have more horsepower and torques.

Step 10: Add some aero now that you've passed the stock M3 and the miata is no longer on your tail (but that pesky P-car is still passing you).

Step 11: Get wider wheels and tires to put more rubber on the road.

Step 12: Wife leaves you, takes house. Who cares? You can sleep in your car but you can't race your house.

See, simple version of the 12 step program.

Lmao! Nice!

[S65 Underdog]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

But then that means him and you will be wasting money on tires instead of camber plates.

Correct me if I am wrong but I always thought TOE was the tire killer? Sure heavy camber is going to lead to specific areas to wear more then others but I always thug TOE was the ultimate one.

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by S65 Underdog

Correct me if I am wrong but I always thought TOE was the tire killer? Sure heavy camber is going to lead to specific areas to wear more then others but I always thug TOE was the ultimate one.

camber will wear the edges of your tire, having toe as well will accelerate that wear because you are essentially pushing the tire sideways across the pavent at a very slight angle all the time. i run neutral front toe.

[S65 Underdog]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

camber will wear the edges of your tire, having toe as well will accelerate that wear because you are essentially pushing the tire sideways across the pavent at a very slight angle all the time. i run neutral front toe.

Agreed! I have neutral toe in my front but I have toe in the rear. I wish I could share my numbers but my mech's printer was down. I can get the numbers later. I know I am running close to -3.3 front and a goal of -2.5 rear with 1.5 toe in the rear. My mech couldn't reach the rear goals but said the front and rears are close to those numbers.

[1MOREMOD]

seems like a lot of rear toe. i just have a quarter or so i believe.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by Porschefile

If you're running hard enough to get much benefit from r comps you'll cord the outsides with stock camber (even with pins pulled). I corded outsides with -2.5+ camber.

Agreed. If you push harder and get faster, -2.5 is likely not enough. I run -2.8 and still cord the outer edges. I resolved my problem by flipping the tires on the rim to get more life out of them. -2.8 is the max I will allow myself to go as to not kill my street tires on the DD.

However the OP is a beginner, IMO -2.5 should be plenty sufficient as a starting point.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by S65 Underdog

Correct me if I am wrong but I always thought TOE was the tire killer? Sure heavy camber is going to lead to specific areas to wear more then others but I always thug TOE was the ultimate one.

My understanding:

Bad toe settings is the tire killer going straight. Bad camber settings is the tire killer in turns (taken at the limit that is )

[S65 Underdog]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

My understanding:

Bad toe settings is the tire killer going straight. Bad camber settings is the tire killer in turns (taken at the limit that is )

I guess we can't win then....hahahaha.

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by S65 Underdog

I guess we can't win then....hahahaha.

Set your camber and toe to zero, go slow and don't turn.

[S65 Underdog]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

Set your camber and toe to zero, go slow and don't turn.

[S65 Underdog]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

seems like a lot of rear toe. i just have a quarter or so i believe.

I am pretty sure these are my toe settings for the rear. Not to sure, I could be wrong. I am getting the print out on Monday but testing it tomorrow at the track. This was recommended by a Motor sports team for a certain track.

Their printer was down but I trust my mech enough.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by S65 Underdog

I guess we can't win then....hahahaha.

Actually you can. Get both the toe and camber setting right and you will maximize your tire life. That was the point of my post .

[S65 Underdog]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

Actually you can. Get both the toe and camber setting right and you will maximize your tire life. That was the point of my post .

What are these settings you would recommend then.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by S65 Underdog

What are these settings you would recommend then.

With a stock suspension, I recommend -2.5 front and -1.8 rear camber settings with factory toe specs front and rear (I can't recall the number of factory toe specs). You will also be surprised how the increased front camber will improve the steering feel. The steering will come alive in your hands which makes the car more enjoyable even on the DD .

[S65 Underdog]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

seems like a lot of rear toe. i just have a quarter or so i believe.

I finally received my alignment sheet.

-3.2 Front

0 Toe Front

-2.4 Rear

1.1 Toe Rear