R-Comps and Factory Camber

[Sleeper519]

I have the Ground Control camber plates and have been running -2.6 on both street and track for 2 years now with no abnormal tire wear for either set of tires. If I did it all over again I would probably go with the Vorschlags.

As for budget issues: adjustable camber plates are $500, while track wheels and tires are $2200 minimum and up. Just sayin.

[M3Captain]

Originally Posted by Sleeper519

I have the Ground Control camber plates and have been running -2.6 on both street and track for 2 years now with no abnormal tire wear for either set of tires. If I did it all over again I would probably go with the Vorschlags.

As for budget issues: adjustable camber plates are $500, while track wheels and tires are $2200 minimum and up. Just sayin.

Thanks for the feedback about the street setup. I only have one set of street tires for the moment I really don't feel like tearing them up, and i'd rather spend the cash properly.

I'll probably run one day on my conti's and then step up to a track tire.

[bigjae1976]

I've ran as little as -2.2 degrees of camber with good results on a conti slick scrub at 36psi hot. I think -2.0 is a good starting point. The fixed Dinan plates get you there.

-2.0 won't tear up front tires on the street like -3.5 on an e46 will.

[admranger]

I have the pins pulled and the outside edge of my RE11's (great HPDE tire!) take some abuse.

I have GC plates, just haven't put them in yet due to a bunch of other projects and no track time...

I concur that R-comps aren't needed. They used to be cheaper than ultra high performance street tires, but that was back in 1995 or so. Now they seem to be more than or equal to the cost of street tires. Street tires are more fun anyway as they let you slide the car more (weeee!).

I strongly recommend track specific brake pads (I use PFC 08's and they are fine for street tires driven at an instructor level). I would also recommend some good brake fluid like Motul RBF 600 or one of the other (non-blue color, all this fluid does is stain stuff blue) track fluids.

Have fun and stay safe out there!

[jphughan]

Originally Posted by admranger

I strongly recommend track specific brake pads (I use PFC 08's and they are fine for street tires driven at an instructor level). I would also recommend some good brake fluid like Motul RBF 600 or one of the other (non-blue color, all this fluid does is stain stuff blue) track fluids.

Have fun and stay safe out there!

The blue stuff (ATE Super Blue) is apparently no longer made because some law was passed mandating that brake fluid be a certain color. I heard there was a huge rush on existing stock from people who wanted to keep doing the blue/gold alternating flushes when that was announced.

[M3Captain]

Sounds better to just run street tires and save the cash for a bbk.

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by M3Captain

Sounds better to just run street tires and save the cash for a bbk.

But then to get the most out of the bbk you need suspension, and the tires anyway. More grip your brakes have the more grip you need from your tires to make use of it all. One part just exposes another weak point until you are broke!

[M3Captain]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

But then to get the most out of the bbk you need suspension, and the tires anyway. More grip your brakes have the more grip you need from your tires to make use of it all. One part just exposes another weak point until you are broke!

Not looking to run at the limit, just don't wanna melt my brakes.

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by M3Captain

Not looking to run at the limit, just don't wanna melt my brakes.

Give it time the limit won't be enough and you will want upgrades to your upgrades.

[Sleeper519]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

Give it time the limit won't be enough and you will want upgrades to your upgrades.

Yeah, there's a 12-step program for that...

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by Sleeper519

Yeah, there's a 12-step program for that...

doesnt work.

[Sebringjetta]

Originally Posted by Sleeper519

Yeah, there's a 12-step program for that...

well after looking back i should have used drugs rather then becoming a track rat....would have been much cheaper

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by Sebringjetta

well after looking back i should have used drugs rather then becoming a track rat....would have been much cheaper

+1 and general public has about same opnion of people that do either!

[radiantm3]

I ran PS Cups with -2 degrees of camber. Outside edges corded in about 3 track days. Definitely need more camber when running R comps. If not, I'd say you probably aren't fast enough to justify them in the first place. These are heavy cars.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by Sleeper519

Yeah, there's a 12-step program for that...

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

doesnt work.

Sure it does.

Step 1: get talked into your first track day.

Step 2: buy performance brake pads for stock braking system.

Step 3: Get that kewl set of wheels w/sticky R-compound rubber

Step 4: Cord new r-comps due to insufficient negative camber.

Step 5: Get camber plates and a single adjustable coil over system.

Step 6: Decide that the stock brakes just aren't up to the task, get BBK.

Step 7: Get data acquisition system so you can figure out why the guy in the stock M3 is passing you.

Step 8: Determine that a new triple adjustable, remote reservoir coil over system is just the ticket to catch that girl in the Miata that just ate your lunch through the esses.

Step 9: Get a tune so your rev limiter is higher and you have more horsepower and torques.

Step 10: Add some aero now that you've passed the stock M3 and the miata is no longer on your tail (but that pesky P-car is still passing you).

Step 11: Get wider wheels and tires to put more rubber on the road.

Step 12: Wife leaves you, takes house. Who cares? You can sleep in your car but you can't race your house.

See, simple version of the 12 step program.

[Sebringjetta]

Originally Posted by admranger

Sure it does.

Step 1: get talked into your first track day.

Step 2: buy performance brake pads for stock braking system.

Step 3: Get that kewl set of wheels w/sticky R-compound rubber

Step 4: Cord new r-comps due to insufficient negative camber.

Step 5: Get camber plates and a single adjustable coil over system.

Step 6: Decide that the stock brakes just aren't up to the task, get BBK.

Step 7: Get data acquisition system so you can figure out why the guy in the stock M3 is passing you.

Step 8: Determine that a new triple adjustable, remote reservoir coil over system is just the ticket to catch that girl in the Miata that just ate your lunch through the esses.

Step 9: Get a tune so your rev limiter is higher and you have more horsepower and torques.

Step 10: Add some aero now that you've passed the stock M3 and the miata is no longer on your tail (but that pesky P-car is still passing you).

Step 11: Get wider wheels and tires to put more rubber on the road.

Step 12: Wife leaves you, takes house. Who cares? You can sleep in your car but you can't race your house.

See, simple version of the 12 step program.

lmoa

[Sebringjetta]

Originally Posted by radiantm3

I ran PS Cups with -2 degrees of camber. Outside edges corded in about 3 track days. Definitely need more camber when running R comps. If not, I'd say you probably aren't fast enough to justify them in the first place. These are heavy cars.

if it wasnt enough watching you go by me now i went home to look at my nto1 and dont see any excessive outer wear....now im feeling even more slow...lmao

[M3Captain]

Originally Posted by admranger

Sure it does.

Step 1: get talked into your first track day.

Step 2: buy performance brake pads for stock braking system.

Step 3: Get that kewl set of wheels w/sticky R-compound rubber

Step 4: Cord new r-comps due to insufficient negative camber.

Step 5: Get camber plates and a single adjustable coil over system.

Step 6: Decide that the stock brakes just aren't up to the task, get BBK.

Step 7: Get data acquisition system so you can figure out why the guy in the stock M3 is passing you.

Step 8: Determine that a new triple adjustable, remote reservoir coil over system is just the ticket to catch that girl in the Miata that just ate your lunch through the esses.

Step 9: Get a tune so your rev limiter is higher and you have more horsepower and torques.

Step 10: Add some aero now that you've passed the stock M3 and the miata is no longer on your tail (but that pesky P-car is still passing you).

Step 11: Get wider wheels and tires to put more rubber on the road.

Step 12: Wife leaves you, takes house. Who cares? You can sleep in your car but you can't race your house.

See, simple version of the 12 step program.

Step 1: Buy an E36 M3 track car....

[Sebringjetta]

Originally Posted by M3Captain

Step 1: Buy an E36 M3 track car....

but the e92 is so much fun

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by Sebringjetta

if it wasnt enough watching you go by me now i went home to look at my nto1 and dont see any excessive outer wear....now im feeling even more slow...lmao

Drive faster man! I had an instructor doing probe temps in the hot pits for me once. I felt like I was driving the wheels off and I come in and all he said was go faster.

[Sebringjetta]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

Drive faster man! I had an instructor doing probe temps in the hot pits for me once. I felt like I was driving the wheels off and I come in and all he said was go faster.

thats funny as i had a buddy check all 3 points of each tire....i thought i was having one of my quick laps and he told me the same thing...drive faster

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by Sebringjetta

thats funny as i had a buddy check all 3 points of each tire....i thought i was having one of my quick laps and he told me the same thing...drive faster

Yep that was couple years ago so I probably use the car more effectively now but made me laugh. Only way I could heat the tires up any more on that day was be sideways all over.