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08-23-2021, 12:36 PM | #45 |
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Paid yourself to learn a valuable lesson, haha. That's what I tel myself anyways.
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08-23-2021, 02:58 PM | #46 | |
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Injector stuck open in 2019, not this time.
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I mean, engine can be very clean, right? |
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LakeSurfer822.00 |
08-23-2021, 03:06 PM | #47 |
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Actually, I checked out an old picture of 2020, when I changed the rod bearings and also the spark plugs, and guess how the cylinder 5 spark plug looked like.
I'll post the picture. It's the lower first left one. You can see some oily stain mark right below the washer. That may indicate that back in those days that cylinder was burning more oil than the others, what you say? Dont have a picture of the current spark plug now, because I'm out of home for some days, and I didn't remove the spark plugs yet. |
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08-23-2021, 06:47 PM | #48 | |
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08-23-2021, 06:58 PM | #49 | |
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I changed them at 70,000km. I did post that image in this forum back in the time I changed them, but nobody seemed to observe anything abnormal. |
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08-25-2021, 08:42 AM | #50 |
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What would you guys say about this weld in the picture below?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14409695610...961a%7Ciid%3A1 Also, What would that little spring in the attached picture come from? |
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08-25-2021, 12:19 PM | #51 |
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That spring looks like it from a ball point pen!
That was the motor I had referenced in an earlier post. Although the welded section is not near a dimension critical area (like a weld near a crank journal), you would have to rely on the repair as having kept that mounting point the same. It looks like it is one of the alternator mounting points but you should verify. That motor will need a new head. Assuming the head in your current motor is still good, you will need a head gasket and other parts, along with the timing tools. You should research the TIS, as it may say you need new head bolts. Although that may not initially seem like much of an added cost, all those added parts can quickly add up. It may raise the cost of getting that motor running to that of a working salvaged motor. |
08-25-2021, 01:15 PM | #52 |
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Drives: BMW M3 e92 08 & 330d e90 10
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Are those 10mm nuts on the left side? (for context of the spring size).
If so, perhaps that spring was part of a pressure relief valve? Just guessing mind!
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Oil analysis for finding wearing rod bearings?. Collation of oil analysis reports with some rod bearing photos for the M3's S65. My categorisation of pulled rod bearings in the rod bearing condition thread. My updated 'Blown engines' list. |
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08-25-2021, 02:43 PM | #53 | |
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I imagine that the BMW engine block goes thru some sort of tempering (heat treating) prior to the final machining process? Welding aluminum alloys can cause a "Heat Affected Zone" around the weld bead, that anneals all or part of the welded piece and the parent material nearest the weld bead. Also, when welding on castings, there is the potential for issues like porosity, and generally a weld bead can shrink the surface which could cause stress. I'd be curious about a couple of things: How did the original crack start? How was the crack prepared prior to the weld? What is the roundness of the cylinder bore nearest the weld? Have the threads in the welded area lost strength (soft due to annealing)? Why was the engine removed? How many miles, if any, had been accumulated after the weld repair?
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08-26-2021, 08:19 AM | #54 |
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The same seller on EBay also has a motor with low compression in one cylinder at a similar price point. Either route would be rolling the dice. One may be able to get either motor running well with your current motor donating some parts. Whichever route you take, make sure you've planned for some contingencies. Examples: on repaired block, alternator being out of alignment. Low compression block needing to get cylinders honed. The list could become extensive, but understanding the road you face will help with your decision making process.
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08-26-2021, 10:52 AM | #55 |
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I understand all those factors, and thank for having your contribution.
What makes me curious about those engines is this: why do they ask those high prices for blocks/engines that are so risky of being bad? I mean, if there is people buying those blocks enough to prevent the prices from dropping, where are those people and what is going on with the engines they are buying? |
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08-26-2021, 11:59 AM | #56 | |
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Edit: Curently on EBAY there is a supposedly clean block for $3k and a block with a beat up cylinder wall for under $1k. However, the demand seems to be low for parts such as camshafts and heads so one could be holding on to the parts for a long time. That seller seems to showing more wrecked E46 M3s on IG lately, but the E90/92 come up often. If the welded up block was running, it would be more enticing. As it sits now, it is not clear how they would guarantee the motor (which they say they do). |
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jvictormp919.50 |
08-26-2021, 07:51 PM | #57 | ||
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08-27-2021, 07:14 AM | #58 |
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I’d be more concerned about the crash that broke part of the block. Who knows what else happened or how thoroughly it was fixed.
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08-27-2021, 07:51 AM | #59 |
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Thanks for the considerations, guys.
A clean block for 3k, as drrust mentioned, seems to be a good way to go. By the way, I just remembered that the oil I bought in Mercado Livre (similar to ebay here in Latin America) was in a good price (not absurdly low, though), and there is half liter remaining in the garage. The seller is well reputed in the community. Should I get a lab analysis on that oil to make sure it is genuine and not related to the problem? |
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Davisca4552207.50 |
08-27-2021, 11:44 AM | #60 | |
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You are better off waiting until you take the motor apart and see what actually failed. |
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08-27-2021, 12:03 PM | #61 | |
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If the analysis came back clean, you could at least rule it out as a possible contributing factor, and you might gain some confidence about the seller for future purchases. If the oil analysis shows an issue, then you might have at least a possible contributing factor, and you'd know not to purchase from that seller in the future.
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08-31-2021, 09:18 AM | #63 |
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I'm getting an engine winch, and an engine support, and I'm gonna disassemble that m*****f**k*er all at home.
Already got a car lifter couple of days before blowing the engine. Found a great channel on youtube about that, named Sarka on the Ring. I plan to begin the job by 10th September. You sure can expect me to show up with many many questions after that. Last edited by jvictormp; 08-31-2021 at 07:56 PM.. |
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08-31-2021, 09:58 AM | #64 | |
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Just, eh, consider weighing how much all this is costing vs a replacement engine though. I wish I had your drive and determination! |
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08-31-2021, 10:17 AM | #65 | |
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Would have to pay someone to disassemble the engine and tell me what the hell happened, otherwise I would die of curiosity. So, between paying someone to do, or using that money to buy tools and doing it myself, I'm the kind of person who prefers the later. |
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08-31-2021, 10:19 AM | #66 | |
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