(ENGINE RUNS!!!!) Broke down my engine block and changed the engine

[amrazM]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Talking to some friends, they said something like that. Maybe some piston ring was injured after running in a washed cylinder as you said, but not to the degree of causing problems. But as the time goes on, its lifetime ran out faster, and the first problem could have been in that day of the coil.

That should be the day I'd better stop the car and open the engine. But who would guess?

The piston ring, so, would let too much oil to come into the chamber and after some time, the hydrolock showed up.

Don't know, only brainstorming.

BTW, I'm gonna need a very good tutorial about taking the engine out, and some special tools.

Its not hard to pull the motor out, pull the motor with the trans out the front of the car. Pull the nose off, pull the harness off the dme and the starter power and flip it on the top of the engine. also disconnect the ground down below, if you have dct the harness stays with the engine harness, just pull the cooler lines and move them out of the way, disconnect d/s, exhaust, trans mount, loosen the top engine mount nuts and lift the engine and bring it forward.

[jvictormp]

Pulled off the oil filter, nothing there. Pretty clean.

[Blindside_137]

That really hurts to see. Sorry for you to have to go through this.

[Assimilator1]

jvictormp
Sorry to hear about your engine

I was wondering if the misfire from the failed coil could've caused damage due to unburnt fuel going through?
But, a question to anyone who knows these, if the DME had detected a cylinder misfire, wouldn't it shut off the fuel to that cylinder? (If only to protect the cats)

Originally Posted by e46IX

I'm starting to see a trend of engines failing with BE bearings.

Where? Got any links?

Originally Posted by TheRussski

That or mains gave out maybe?

That would cause the engine to seize, not blow a hole through the block.

[decimation1]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

BTW, I'm gonna need a very good tutorial about taking the engine out, and some special tools.

Sorry to hear this. Here's my DIY from a few years ago.....

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1224821

Chris

[MLife614]

The money, the love, the time and energy we ALL put into our Ms are priceless.... My condolences on your engine. Hope you find a new heart for your M and get it up and running again.

[dmz_m3]

That's awful to have something like this happen, especially with upgraded bearings. Sorry OP, hope you get this sorted out.

[Redd]

Really sorry to hear this OP. On the other hand, might be the right time for that stroker...

[djsilverjohnson]

I would suspect the stuck injector event applied excessive forces to the piston and connecting rod that ultimately ended in a fatigue related failure, most likely the connecting rod. A piston and connecting rod are no match for a cylinder filled with liquid.

[da jemster]

Sorry to hear man! I remember when you were doing your RBs with your daily questions on the DIY thread.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by Assimilator1

I was wondering if the misfire from the failed coil could've caused damage due to unburnt fuel going through?
But, a question to anyone who knows these, if the DME had detected a cylinder misfire, wouldn't it shut off the fuel to that cylinder? (If only to protect the cats)

Well, when the fault occurred, that cylinder was shutdown, and the engine worked without fuel in that cylinder.

I must admit that I turned the engine off and on several times hoping that the fault would go off, but it always came back after like 1~4 minutes, so if the coil was faulty, it worked faulty for those several minutes, until shutdown. But I wouldn't suppose that was cause of something, but an effect.

Somebody please correct me if not, but when you lose compression, the DME may have made the spark power requested to the coil to change a lot, and that could have taken the coil to a threshold of fault. That would mean that if the compression were okay like the other cylinders, the coil wouldn't show any failure. But with a new coil, it handled well.

And about the misfire, yes, the DME shuts down that injector. That happened when the coil failed this month, and also that was supposed to happen when the injector got stuck open in 2019, but, there's no gain in shuting down an injector that is stuck open.

Originally Posted by decimation1

Sorry to hear this. Here's my DIY from a few years ago.....

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1224821

Chris

Thanks a lot, mate. Will definitely make use of that.

Originally Posted by GotV8?

The money, the love, the time and energy we ALL put into our Ms are priceless.... My condolences on your engine. Hope you find a new heart for your M and get it up and running again.

Originally Posted by Blindside_137

That really hurts to see. Sorry for you to have to go through this.

Originally Posted by da jemster

Sorry to hear man! I remember when you were doing your RBs with your daily questions on the DIY thread.

Thanks guys, your words really mean good to me.

Originally Posted by Redd

Really sorry to hear this OP. On the other hand, might be the right time for that stroker...

I can't say I wouldn't like, but that would require more money I think, right?

Right now I'm the hope of welding the block, and replacing only the two pistons and rods of that journal. I know it's not likely to be only that, but the hope dies last.

Originally Posted by djsilverjohnson

I would suspect the stuck injector event applied excessive forces to the piston and connecting rod that ultimately ended in a fatigue related failure, most likely the connecting rod. A piston and connecting rod are no match for a cylinder filled with liquid.

Yeah, you could be right too, but in that occasion, I don't think there was enough liquid to a hydrolock, otherwise engine wouldn't get out of it alive. In either cases, of stuck injector causing bend to piston/rod or just washing cylinder and after long time failing piston ring, a compression test would be effective to detect that preventively, right?

What you guys think?

I don't know yet, but sounds like a new procedure to do if somebody gets a stuck open injector: compression tests frequently.

[drrust]

It is unlikely that you will be able to salvage the block. Most economical option would be used motor from a salvaged car (several on EBay) and replacing the rod bearings before install.

[cwlo]

Wouldn't a leaking injector show some oil dilution with fuel?

[tbuck]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Right now I'm the hope of welding the block, and replacing only the two pistons and rods of that journal.

Wait....Wut????

Dude, there is no saving that block. Not sure how you figured to do that, but you will have to be getting another engine. If it did enough damage to ventilate the block where you can see parts on the ground, that block has gone to the motorsports park in the sky and will never turn over again. The fact that you saw no debris in the oil filter also indicates the level of damage. It stopped the engine completely, not like a spun bearing where the engine keeps turning for a while right after it happens. It totally sux, and I am sorry for your loss, but this one aint coming back from the dead.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by tbuck

Wait....Wut????

Dude, there is no saving that block. Not sure how you figured to do that, but you will have to be getting another engine. If it did enough damage to ventilate the block where you can see parts on the ground, that block has gone to the motorsports park in the sky and will never turn over again. The fact that you saw no debris in the oil filter also indicates the level of damage. It stopped the engine completely, not like a spun bearing where the engine keeps turning for a while right after it happens. It totally sux, and I am sorry for your loss, but this one aint coming back from the dead.

Okay, mate. You may be right. Or not.

I'll open up the engine and see the facts that will assure a welding won't work. If there's no argument against, there's no why not to try. Sure it would be good to get the money, go to the dealer and say "hey, get me that new engine right now, tks bye bye". Only miss the money for that.

You need to take in account that I'm in Brazil. Salvaged block from USA will cost like 10 times more here than there.

And the engine didn't lock. It kept on running until I pressed the Stop button (which by the way, I would have done faster if it were a key fob instead of a button that doesn't obbey me if premises x, y, z are not active, but doesn't come to the case).

But as I said, I don't know and you can be right.

[wootloops]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Okay, mate. You may be right. Or not.

I'll open up the engine and see the facts that will assure a welding won't work. If there's no argument against, there's no why not to try. Sure it would be good to get the money, go to the dealer and say "hey, get me that new engine right now, tks bye bye". Only miss the money for that.

You need to take in account that I'm in Brazil. Salvaged block from USA will cost like 10 times more here than there.

And the engine didn't lock. It kept on running until I pressed the Stop button (which by the way, I would have done faster if it were a key fob instead of a button that doesn't obbey me if premises x, y, z are not active, but doesn't come to the case).

But as I said, I don't know and you can be right.

I agree that it is not a viable repair to weld that block.

They are made out of a special alloy that you will have a hard time welding. Deansbimmer discussed this in other threads when someone was asking about welding to repair the hairline crack after spinning a main bearing. That was a small nearly invisible crack. In this case, we're talking about a huge window hole.

Plus whatever caused the rod to smash through the block in the first place. That's a whole different issue that may not be fixable in itself.

Sorry if this comes off as negative, but I'm just trying to be real with you.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by wootloops

I agree that it is not a viable repair to weld that block.

They are made out of a special alloy that you will have a hard time welding. Deansbimmer discussed this in other threads when someone was asking about welding to repair the hairline crack after spinning a main bearing. That was a small nearly invisible crack. In this case, we're talking about a huge window hole.

Plus whatever caused the rod to smash through the block in the first place. That's a whole different issue that may not be fixable in itself.

Sorry if this comes off as negative, but I'm just trying to be real with you.

Okay, now that's an argument.

[Green-Eggs]

You can't weld this block. Many people have tried, but nobody has successfully welded the Alusil S65 BMW blocks.

[drrust]

Please don't take offense to comments made by others. Until you have the engine take apart, you will not understand the extent of the damage. From the images shown it looked like something in the bottom end failed. Even if you could weld the AluSil block, you would have to send the block to a very competent machine shop to make sure everything was in tolerance. In the US market, that alone would be the cost of a salvaged block or even motor. If the bad coil resulted in cylinder wall damage that would be an added cost.

If however you are in the position to only considering welding up the block, MPartsWorldWide (Instagram) or mpartsww (eBay) has a salvaged motor that needs a head that was welded in the front section of the block. (Likely damage from accident.) Contacting them for details on the parameters used to repair that block might be helpful. Although you may want to investigate the cost of shipping. They often have motors that aren't so severely damaged.

As an owner of a very high mileage M3 (180k miles), I am aware of the consequences of a motor failure. Hence looking at what motors are available in the market.

[LakeSurfer]

I can't comment to much on the weldability of the block but I know there are several techniques to repair damage like this that are more involved then just mashing a bunch of weld into the hole. Talk to a few professional machinist. I'm sure a lot of these guys on here know what they're talking about but at the end of the day it's a forum, some good surrounded by a bunch of garbage.

I would be more concerned with any residual debris blocking an oil passage.

I blew up my 4 stroke KTM dirt bike and rebuilt it my self to save a few. Ended up replacing then entire top end at a cost of $3,500. Sort of a lot for a dirt bike. We'll put it all back together and ran it for a couple days and blew it up again. I gave up and brought it to the dealer and they found the smallest amount of metal shavings that blocked an oil passage. My understanding is to some extent it's nearly impossible to get all the shavings out. My bike has soooo many oil passages in the engine. Well the dealer did another rebuild on the bike for around $3,000. He was able to re use some of my new(ish) parts.

At the end of the day I paid $10,000 for my KTM new. A few years later I spent close to $7,000 repairing it. I could've bought another bike of the same model for that price and had a spare rolling chassis. I'll never get my money back from it.

Take your time and really analyze all of your options. Visualize the worst situation and keep talking to professionals. Don't talk to them to hear what you want to hear but to build information that will help make your decision going forward.

Good luck.

[Ajolives]

Originally Posted by LakeSurfer

Don't talk to them to hear what you want to hear but to build information that will help make your decision going forward.

Good luck.

So true; basically applies to any rational decision.

[LakeSurfer]

Originally Posted by Ajolives

So true; basically applies to any rational decision.

Right? For me my pride seems to stunt my decision making process with stuff like this. I was totally capable of doing the work to some extent but…….

I was told by so many people to bring my bike in to have the shop do the work but I was stuck on saving the labor costs. Luckily I was able to afford it all financially but at the end of the day it was a waste of my time and money. And I was in the Midwest at the time so I also lost the entire riding season.