Track forum general chit chat.

[derbo]

Originally Posted by dparm

You can do more than 2-3 laps at speed. Just don't over-drive the tire. Watch your pressures. They don't like a lot of slip angle, either.

I don't really recommend mixing tires unless it's absolutely necessary. The PS2 is a very old design and will have a lot less grip than the PS4S.

I can confirm, don't overdrive them.

They are still a damn solid tire for 1-2 track events a year.

[stefan_e36]

Originally Posted by rhyary

The 275/35/19 road psi is 34 vs 36 of the OEM 265/35. The 255/35 is 32 vs 35psi.

The 275 on the track can go down to 25psi cold at the track and will be nice at 30psi hot. If you want the car to rotate more go up from 30 toward 35psi hot

The nice thing about the 275/35 is that you can run it at lower pressure than the 265. I think that is more beneficial than the added 10mm width

This is only based on my experience.

YMMV

Useful information about the pressure!
, because I planed to use 2.6 bar = 37psi at “road mode”, then I get down a bit

[stefan_e36]

Originally Posted by derbo

I can confirm, don't overdrive them.

They are still a damn solid tire for 1-2 track events a year.

3-4 track days for a year
And one more question: Is it enough camber for this purpose:
Front: -1,25
Rear: - 2.00

dparm and what is your opinion?

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by stefan_e36

3-4 track days for a year
And one more question: Is it enough camber for this purpose:
Front: -1,25
Rear: - 2.00

dparm and what is your opinion?

Your rear is fine, but the front needs much more camber than the rear on this car. You may destroy the front tires rather quickly.

[stefan_e36]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

Your rear is fine, but the front needs much more camber than the rear on this car. You may destroy the front tires rather quickly.

maximum that I can get with stock suspension is -1,5 on front, as I understand learning the forum((

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by stefan_e36

maximum that I can get with stock suspension is -1,5 on front, as I understand learning the forum((

Correct.
For 3-4 track days it would be fine

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by stefan_e36

maximum that I can get with stock suspension is -1,5 on front, as I understand learning the forum((

Are you planning on eventually upgrading your suspension?

If not, invest in some camber plates for your stock struts.

If you are, you can still slot the strut tower holes in the mean time to get more (as much as you want really) negative camber until you buy a new suspension that has camber plates.

[derbo]

Originally Posted by tsk94

Are you planning on eventually upgrading your suspension?

If not, invest in some camber plates for your stock struts.

If you are, you can still slot the strut tower holes in the mean time to get more (as much as you want really) negative camber until you buy a new suspension that has camber plates.

Even so, if you go with camber plates like vorshlag, you can always buy coilovers like B16 or Ohlins that uses stock spring upper mounts or buy the vorshlag coilover perch for additional $60

[stefan_e36]

Originally Posted by tsk94

Are you planning on eventually upgrading your suspension?

If not, invest in some camber plates for your stock struts.

If you are, you can still slot the strut tower holes in the mean time to get more (as much as you want really) negative camber until you buy a new suspension that has camber plates.

Yes, you’re right,
I would like to drive at stock suspension.
camber plates? Maybe in future but not in nearest, because I like clean view of stock car))

[rhyary]

For most of 2020 I have been driving track days with DSC=Off.

I am finding out that my inner front brake pad is consumed almost at twice the rate of the outside. I just flipped them out to in.

I am curious to know why. I am looking for some kind of explanation. Is it possible that the inner pad gets twice as hot?

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by rhyary

For most of 2020 I have been driving track days with DSC=Off.

I am finding out that my inner front brake pad is consumed almost at twice the rate of the outside. I just flipped them out to in.

I am curious to know why. I am looking for some kind of explanation. Is it possible that the inner pad gets twice as hot?

On most cars this would indicate a stuck caliper.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

On most cars this would indicate a stuck caliper.

Yes but I checked and all 6 pistons (3 on each side) are moving as they should. And both left and right fronts are doing the same

[slowdown_dan]

Originally Posted by stefan_e36

maximum that I can get with stock suspension is -1,5 on front, as I understand learning the forum((

If you throw some lowering springs on the car and pull the strut tower pins you'll get about 2 to 2.1 degrees negative camber in the front.

[stefan_e36]

Originally Posted by butte2butte

If you throw some lowering springs on the car and pull the strut tower pins you'll get about 2 to 2.1 degrees negative camber in the front.

thanks a lot, but I'll try with -1.25 in front at next track day, and then give a feedback. If something is going wrong, I'll do as you say above

[slowdown_dan]

Originally Posted by stefan_e36

thanks a lot, but I'll try with -1.25 in front at next track day, and then give a feedback. If something is going wrong, I'll do as you say above

Give a good tire check after each session and don't be afraid to call it a day if you notice heavy shoulder wear or tread feathering.

If you've been to handful of track days and are pushing the pace consistently you'll likely notice some damage.

[stefan_e36]

Originally Posted by butte2butte

Give a good tire check after each session and don't be afraid to call it a day if you notice heavy shoulder wear or tread feathering.

If you've been to handful of track days and are pushing the pace consistently you'll likely notice some damage.

thanks, I'll be trying to combine 2 fast laps with 1-2 cooling laps, such a "timeattack mode", and maybe suppose I can help tires not to overheat

[slicer]

Originally Posted by kyippee

I try...

Thought about it, but there's a few reasons why I went with the SPL parts to start:
- Less proven, I just like to see people successfully run parts before jumping on. The SPL parts seem like they've been used by many with success. I also saw the uprights have a manufacturing delay, so it's just not ready for what I want to do.

- Different parts: I'm seeing them as somewhat complementary parts. I wanted to replace the front arms on my car since they're likely worn out, and I had a rough impact on one side of the car.

- Locking down alignment: I've also been noticing my alignment get knocked out of place after jacking up the car, then having it magically knock back into correct alignment after going over a bump. I think something is slipping. In marketing copy, I see some sites say the SPL parts can hold an alignment better. I'll have to find out.

Thanks! Have run them already at 2 track days and I'm surprised I'm not feeling significant harshness over what 550/800 was. I had a solid rear subframe mount + poly diff/trans mounts installed at the same time, so it's hard to isolate what parts made the biggest changes.

I recommend replacing SPL's titanium set screws with stainless and add light hold Loctite to maintain alignment. In my experience the Ti screws are too easily stripped to adequately tighten.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by rhyary

For most of 2020 I have been driving track days with DSC=Off.

I am finding out that my inner front brake pad is consumed almost at twice the rate of the outside. I just flipped them out to in.

I am curious to know why. I am looking for some kind of explanation. Is it possible that the inner pad gets twice as hot?

I had an endurance racer/instructor tell me (when I questioned him about the same thing) that the inside pads typically show more wear due to less airflow.
Once I started to pay attention, i found my results to be consistent with his theory.
Specifically, at laguna seca. It's a counter clockwise track with 11 turns, and only four are right turns. Pretty much all of the hard braking zones are followed by a left turn where the passenger front inner brake pad and rotor face are shielded from normal airflow.
I rotate my pads with this theory with good results.
I used to swap my pads at the end of the day and just not pay attention until they were all snug in the box and four different thicknesses and I was scratching my head.

[kyippee]

Originally Posted by slicer

I recommend replacing SPL's titanium set screws with stainless and add light Loctite to maintain alignment. In my experience the Ti screws are too easily stripped to adequately tighten.

Would you sell a slicer kit for this? I'd buy! I don't know how to measure the parts and want to ensure I have the right stuff

[slicer]

Originally Posted by kyippee

Would you sell a slicer kit for this? I'd buy! I don't know how to measure the parts and want to ensure I have the right stuff

Not a bad idea! Hmmmm.... this would be like the anti Roast Beef move. Converting Ti hardware to steel.

[SQ13]

Laguna pipe finally put together. The turn tip is currently tack welded onto the extended muffler, but eventually it’ll get a V-band in case I ever want to use the turn tip without the muffler. I also want to add a bracket or something to link the muffler to the chassis for extra support. The noise reduction with this was significant.

[roastbeef]

you have to point it away from the sound booth brotha. you're aiming it straight at the damn booth like that. 45* up and to the driver's side is what you want.