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07-22-2020, 02:05 PM | #13179 |
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Drives: 'E46 M3 Race Car, '23 X7
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Excellent!
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'23 X7
'04 M3 - Fall Line Motorsports Built Race Car - S65 swap, Dry Sump, Bosch Stand-Alone ECU, Drenth Sequential Trans, MCS 3-Way, Flossmann Wide Body, Brembo Motorsports Brakes, Drexler LSD, BBS E88 Etc. INSTAGRAM - @Slicer_M |
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07-22-2020, 02:07 PM | #13180 |
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Drives: 'E46 M3 Race Car, '23 X7
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See my pics on earlier post. F8x hubs with M14. Best of all worlds. Lighter and stronger(est).
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'23 X7
'04 M3 - Fall Line Motorsports Built Race Car - S65 swap, Dry Sump, Bosch Stand-Alone ECU, Drenth Sequential Trans, MCS 3-Way, Flossmann Wide Body, Brembo Motorsports Brakes, Drexler LSD, BBS E88 Etc. INSTAGRAM - @Slicer_M |
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07-22-2020, 05:22 PM | #13181 |
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I figure if you're going through the trouble, get the stronger of the two = 14mm. Be mindful that if you have aftermarket brakes, you may need to bore out the rotor hats to accommodate the 14mm studs.
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07-22-2020, 06:00 PM | #13182 |
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So is everything I mentioned except the alignment (changing rear toe) for the average person.
Tire pressures are definitely another options/tool you can use. Assuming you can lower the rear tire pressure to get more grip, then yes it's an option. If you're already to a minimum tire pressure to prevent rolling over, or optimal tire temps, then lowering rear pressure for more grip isn't an option - that's where other things like I listed can be used. You wouldn't want to raise the front tire pressure as you don't want to take grip away from the front, you just want to increase rear grip. You want to work on the end that has the issue. I believe the OP only has a front sway bar (might be mixing him up with someone else though) so I listed stiffening the front bar as he doesn't have a rear bar to soften. |
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07-22-2020, 07:00 PM | #13183 | |
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Best thing I found for the e9x M3 in terms of rear grip and overall handling (and the fastest lap time on the test course) that we did last time we had access to the testing site (sadly its no longer) was increase the rear track width with 10mm spacers on each side to effectively give a pseudo-staggered setup. At the time the car was on 18x10 square wheels with 285/30 Re71r's. Stock swaybars, stock weight, only KW Clubsports with the shocks tuned before and after adding the spacers to compare. It would be hard for me to dig up the data on it now since its been almost year, but I remember taking very specific notes on the fact that the "staggered" setup improved the car significantly. I have staggered and square setups now and use both, but really like the staggered setups better. I really only use the square ones due to cost savings and tire availability mainly. Prime example would be that I have access to cheap used slicks and the sizes they come in are best on 18x10 square. My favorite combo right now on these however is 18x10.5 front and 18x11 rear.
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#ladydriven Heavy-spec M3 // KW Clubsports // AA x-pipe // Gintani muffler // Macht-Schnell intake // Gintani tune // OMP Seats // Too Many Apex Wheels // Stoptech ST-60 // Cobalt Friction brake pads |
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07-22-2020, 09:09 PM | #13184 |
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What's the distance at the widest point? PM me if you'd be interested in making a set for me and how much you'd want. Thanks!
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Current: 2022 TRX & 2010 GT3RS
Past: 2016 M3 Individual Grigio Telesto Pearl, Sakhir Orange/Black Full Leather w/ CF trim, 6MT, ZCP, CCB, etc... Previous: 2011 E92 M3 Melbourne Red on Black 6MT ZCP. --> now 2010 dedicated track car |
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07-22-2020, 11:31 PM | #13185 | |
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I had to go to my YouTube to find it, but in 2013 I did a 41.8 in my Evo. Probably running Z1 or Z2 star specs if I had to guess.. There's definitely time to gain by using the carousel, you just have to mentally block out the bad scraping sounds. Lol I've never gone in so hard that it spit me out, u won't either.. you'd just go up top if you thought u were too hot getting in |
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07-23-2020, 01:59 PM | #13186 | |
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I am sure with track people, the square setup A) pays a lot of dividends in tire life, B) doesn't limit a wide front setup because they're willing to do what's necessary ot get it to fit body/alignment wise and C) if going faster is the goal, it's dumb to not have aero and it's so much easier to add rear downforce than front that a rear tire being "undersized" isn't such a big deal from an overall performance standpoint so long as you can keep enough compliance in the rearend to not suck in slow corners So yeah, anyway. There's square, and then there's square with an asterisk, I'm an asterisk guy
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Last edited by Richbot; 07-23-2020 at 02:13 PM.. |
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e92BMW///M3134.00 Kelse921132.50 |
07-23-2020, 03:33 PM | #13187 |
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Same here. 18x10 square with a spacer in the rear is my go-to track setup right now since I have access to low-cost Pirelli scrubs locally that fit that wheel size perfectly.
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#ladydriven Heavy-spec M3 // KW Clubsports // AA x-pipe // Gintani muffler // Macht-Schnell intake // Gintani tune // OMP Seats // Too Many Apex Wheels // Stoptech ST-60 // Cobalt Friction brake pads |
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07-24-2020, 05:55 AM | #13188 |
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Any need adjustable front endlinks? I have a perfectly good set of SPL links that are no good to me because the MCS requires shorter ones.
Seemed like BW was the goto for these, but they are real meh in comparison. Joints on the BW are super loose, no hex or flat spot on the center to hold still with. Overall disappointed.
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07-24-2020, 07:12 AM | #13189 |
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The spot for the wrench to hold the threaded section on the BW endlinks is at the base of the threads, between the sway bar and Heim joint. I have the same BW endlink setup for my MCS dampers. 13 or 14 mm thin walled wrench, as I recall. Unless they've changed them...
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07-24-2020, 07:26 AM | #13190 | |
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07-24-2020, 01:17 PM | #13191 |
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Ahh... I thought you were referring to the nuts attaching to the sway bar. For setting the shaft length, I put a wrench on the flat part of the Heim holding the bearing. If the black central shaft still spun, another wrench on the lock nut on the other end helped. It took 3 hands. If you're concerned it's not tight enough, mark the threads so you can see if it loosens.
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07-24-2020, 08:44 PM | #13192 |
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For the Slon pan install, are you supposed to be filling the gap where it looks like a gasket would go with Loctite 574?
I'm planning on filling it in, tightening the screws, then holding it in place with a jack and pad for a day to set/cure. Sounds about right? |
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07-24-2020, 11:43 PM | #13193 |
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Just picked my car up from the following and have a follow-up appointment as we found a broken bearing in my GC race camber plates. (temp fix in place for now)
What's surprising to me is that the car seems more comfortable (less floaty, but not twitchy at all, slightly more feeling on bumps) with 700/1000 rates now than 550/800 before. Is this normal? They're paired with JRZ NR 1-way dampers at 8 out of 21 clicks for street. Changed from 550/800 to 700/1000 springs (divorced rear) Bimmerworld solid rear subframe mounts Powerflex purple diff mount (front & rear positions) Revshift poly (black / OEM+) transmission mounts 14 sets of Powerflex purple bushings for the rear end Replaced driveshaft giubo Replaced OE muffler hangers, added Revshift hanger inserts Replaced rear sway bar brackets and bushings Flushed diff fluid Last edited by kyippee; 07-25-2020 at 12:52 AM.. |
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07-25-2020, 08:31 AM | #13194 |
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Has any one replaced their trailing arms?
I heard that the reason the trailing arms are weak stamped steel is because you want them to fold and break to protect the expensive parts. . |
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07-25-2020, 08:44 AM | #13195 |
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^ I've been curious about the same and those were the same I was considering.
That said, new OE ones are ~$50 a piece so it might be best to just check them after some time and see if they are still true. I imagine if they fatigue it will be very slowly over time.
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07-25-2020, 09:00 PM | #13196 |
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Does SPL make any? Their shit is just so good, it would take a lot for me to order something else.
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07-25-2020, 09:30 PM | #13197 | |
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They don't. Not this one part. Only ones I've found are the Revshift and ECS makes one too but it doesn't look as nice IMO.
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07-26-2020, 01:10 AM | #13198 |
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I had my rear trailing arms replaced with the ECS part. Took up my friend's recommendation; he said he wouldn't normally buy an ECS-designed part, but this specific one is o.k.
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07-26-2020, 01:53 AM | #13199 | ||||
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07-26-2020, 01:58 AM | #13200 | ||||
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