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      03-30-2020, 04:39 PM   #573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvictormp View Post
That's curious. My four bolts had the same lenght. What's the Model Year?
2011
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      03-30-2020, 06:13 PM   #574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvictormp View Post
That's curious. My four bolts had the same lenght. What's the Model Year?
Maybe the guy who changed your bearings before you bought the car did not put the bolts back in the right places ...
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      03-30-2020, 08:43 PM   #575
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Fuck, how did I not notice that?

Crazy thing, this!
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      03-31-2020, 11:04 AM   #576
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It's time!

Oil in engine, all things done.

I'd like to crank it for 5 seconds before firing. Should I only remove the pump fuse, or disconnect all coils as well?
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      03-31-2020, 11:11 AM   #577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvictormp View Post
It's time!

Oil in engine, all things done.

I'd like to crank it for 5 seconds before firing. Should I only remove the pump fuse, or disconnect all coils as well?
Just start it. Do not crank before firing
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      03-31-2020, 12:56 PM   #578
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All working!!!
Guys!!! I'm reeeaaly grateful to everyone here. Thanks so much!!!
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      03-31-2020, 01:03 PM   #579
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Originally Posted by jvictormp View Post


All working!!!
Guys!!! I'm reeeaaly grateful to everyone here. Thanks so much!!!
Awesome, glad it all worked out!!
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      03-31-2020, 01:18 PM   #580
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Originally Posted by jvictormp View Post


All working!!!
Guys!!! I'm reeeaaly grateful to everyone here. Thanks so much!!!
Wow that feeling after the work - congrats!
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      04-01-2020, 02:23 PM   #581
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Were you nervous to start it up?
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      04-03-2020, 08:43 PM   #582
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Excellent DIY SYT, thanks

One question ref - To remove the OEM rod bolts you can use a 12 point 12mm socket. Some have mentioned that it doesn't fit all that well and instead recommend '12mm "Bi-Hex" and 12mm "Bi-Hexagon"'

Err, those 3 are all the same things , so what did you mean?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
Just start it. Do not crank before firing
A? Why? Surely you want the oil pumped around before you fire it up?
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Collation of oil analysis reports with some rod bearing photos for the M3's S65 - Does oil analysis work?
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      04-03-2020, 08:51 PM   #583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
Excellent DIY SYT, thanks

One question ref - To remove the OEM rod bolts you can use a 12 point 12mm socket. Some have mentioned that it doesn't fit all that well and instead recommend '12mm "Bi-Hex" and 12mm "Bi-Hexagon"'

Err, those 3 are all the same things , so what did you mean?


A? Why? Surely you want the oil pumped around before you fire it up?
I use a regular 12 point. Others have had issues with regular 12 points and use the other sockets. They are much sharper and hold the head better. They are not the same thing but they are similar.

Assembly lube takes care of the first few seconds until the engine has oil running through it.
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      04-03-2020, 09:53 PM   #584
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Sockets vary in quality. Some are not cast precisely. Some have lips that prevent them from fully engaging bolts that have short heads. Others seat fully.
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      04-03-2020, 11:22 PM   #585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
Excellent DIY SYT, thanks

One question ref - To remove the OEM rod bolts you can use a 12 point 12mm socket. Some have mentioned that it doesn't fit all that well and instead recommend '12mm "Bi-Hex" and 12mm "Bi-Hexagon"'

Err, those 3 are all the same things , so what did you mean?



A? Why? Surely you want the oil pumped around before you fire it up?
This worked perfectly. I bought it for $8 from amazon.de.
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      04-04-2020, 06:48 AM   #586
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Nice socket! Stahlwille is quality - made in germany. Most of my tools are not high end, but get the job done. Sometimes for a precision job, I will buy or borrow a high quality tool. I borrowed a mechanic friendís torque wrench for the rod bearing job, and in the years since I have bought a set of quality ones for myself.

Still donít have angle torque wrenches but may add one or two at some point. I used an angle adapter when I did the rod bearings using stock bolts, and that is not ideal because each added fitting can have an effect on torque. But everything seems fine 6 years and 43k miles later and I will change them again in the next year or two.
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      04-04-2020, 08:29 AM   #587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Nice socket! Stahlwille is quality - made in germany. Most of my tools are not high end, but get the job done. Sometimes for a precision job, I will buy or borrow a high quality tool. I borrowed a mechanic friend’s torque wrench for the rod bearing job, and in the years since I have bought a set of quality ones for myself.

Still don’t have angle torque wrenches but may add one or two at some point. I used an angle adapter when I did the rod bearings using stock bolts, and that is not ideal because each added fitting can have an effect on torque. But everything seems fine 6 years and 43k miles later and I will change them again in the next year or two.
Extensions and adapters do not affect torque if you keep everything in a straight line. Swivel heads and universals, on the other hand, will cause error.

Cheers,
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      04-04-2020, 09:54 AM   #588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
I use a regular 12 point. Others have had issues with regular 12 points and use the other sockets. They are much sharper and hold the head better. They are not the same thing but they are similar.

Assembly lube takes care of the first few seconds until the engine has oil running through it.
I still don't follow you, 12 point is bi-hex which is shorthand for bi-hexagonal. As I said they are all the same. Are you actually thinking of different make sockets? Some definitely fit & last better than others! (as Phonsalb mentioned). What do you mean by 'other sockets'?

Re assem lube, got ya

phonsalb
Re lip, I don't follow, where do you mean this lip is?
I'm familiar with sockets that won't go fully onto nuts where there is an internal lip which butts up against the stud (as I think the 1 pictured above would), but I'm guessing that's not what you mean?
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      04-04-2020, 10:24 AM   #589
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On some sockets the splines or internal machining first not start for 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch, which can be a problem. Other time the socket is shallow and may not fully engage, particularly if on a stud and the stud is poking through. I always look for a nice engagement.
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      04-04-2020, 01:14 PM   #590
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Amazon sells 12 point Tekton impact socket sets. I find that they are pretty good quality for a reasonable price. Worked great on the factory rod bolts. So important to have full engagement on a 12 point.

Cheers,
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      04-05-2020, 06:07 PM   #591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
That is what I did. Razor blade and brake clean.

If you feel up for a messy job, your coolant block drains and the most accessible they will be. Allen head plugs on each side above the header collectors (think of the area where the oil pan flares out towards the rear of the pan if the pan was attached).
Thanks for the suggestion about coolant, but I was running out of time, couldn't do it. Took 5 or 7 days .


Quote:
Originally Posted by tigermack View Post
Were you nervous to start it up?
As hell! Crazy fear of fucking everything up.

In the moment, you fear for the dust into the engine, fear for the alignment between the upper and lower shells, for the settlement of the shells in its connecting rod or cap, for the correct use of the torque wrench, for the lube you let get in the back of the shell. You just have to close your eyes, and do the all-in.
I still fear for the longevity of the service, if I made some mistake, you know.
But I've run it for 100 miles or so since service done, no surprises for now.
And the engine feels soooooo amazing, specially because of the engine mounts and for knowing that the rod bearings are new.
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      04-05-2020, 07:12 PM   #592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvictormp View Post
Thanks for the suggestion about coolant, but I was running out of time, couldn't do it. Took 5 or 7 days .




As hell! Crazy fear of fucking everything up.

In the moment, you fear for the dust into the engine, fear for the alignment between the upper and lower shells, for the settlement of the shells in its connecting rod or cap, for the correct use of the torque wrench, for the lube you let get in the back of the shell. You just have to close your eyes, and do the all-in.
I still fear for the longevity of the service, if I made some mistake, you know.
But I've run it for 100 miles or so since service done, no surprises for now.
And the engine feels soooooo amazing, specially because of the engine mounts and for knowing that the rod bearings are new.
It really feels wonderful to have them done

Whenever I do an oil change I'm concerned when I turn it back on
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      04-06-2020, 09:00 AM   #593
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Smile Sometimes there are positive surprises as well

First of all:
Thanks for the amazing and detailed DIY and all the valuable information in the additional comments

Since I was about to have a whole week off due to Corona, I decided to them on my own (even though no lift is available).
Using the jack stand approach with the lowered frame is a huge PIA and everything hurst still! Would I have to do it a second time, I guess I would rather remove the whole frame to have more clearance...


Started Saturday and Sunday morning I had the oil pan off and access to the bolts and bearings.
Without paying much attention I tried the 12mm 12-point socket I borrowed from a friend and noticed it is too big while the 3/8th was too small and started wondering...
... thats were I had the first positive surprise ever with the car and its maintenance history: There were ARP625+ bolts already installed (and they have a 7/16th head).
That's were I started hoping that someone already covered the bearings (my car has 130.xxx miles already).
To be on the safe side I removed bolts and cap of cylinder 8 and took a look at the bearing and it still looks like new AND it is a BE bearing
So I decided to do nothing, placed the bearing back into the cap, installed the cap, bolted the ARP625+ bolts with 60FtLb and can continue my journey with a clear concious now
So the whole effort was not a waste of time at all since the oil pan gasket was leaking like a pro and had to be replaced anyway...

While I was anyway down there I also covered:
- Transmission mounts
- Engine mounts (even though they still look good and have been replced already)
- O2 sensors pre cat
- Transmission fluid change (incl. new filter)
- Diff fluid change
- Coolant flush (because I broke the connecting pin towards the reservoir when removing the fan )
- Replaced the leaky power steering reservoir incl. fluid change

If someone is interested: I have a full Rod Bearing Service set with BE bearings, ARP2000 bolts, Assembly lube ... left that I was waiting fro several months
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      04-06-2020, 09:58 AM   #594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edberto View Post
First of all:
Thanks for the amazing and detailed DIY and all the valuable information in the additional comments

Since I was about to have a whole week off due to Corona, I decided to them on my own (even though no lift is available).
Using the jack stand approach with the lowered frame is a huge PIA and everything hurst still! Would I have to do it a second time, I guess I would rather remove the whole frame to have more clearance...


Started Saturday and Sunday morning I had the oil pan off and access to the bolts and bearings.
Without paying much attention I tried the 12mm 12-point socket I borrowed from a friend and noticed it is too big while the 3/8th was too small and started wondering...
... thats were I had the first positive surprise ever with the car and its maintenance history: There were ARP625+ bolts already installed (and they have a 7/16th head).
That's were I started hoping that someone already covered the bearings (my car has 130.xxx miles already).
To be on the safe side I removed bolts and cap of cylinder 8 and took a look at the bearing and it still looks like new AND it is a BE bearing
So I decided to do nothing, placed the bearing back into the cap, installed the cap, bolted the ARP625+ bolts with 60FtLb and can continue my journey with a clear concious now
So the whole effort was not a waste of time at all since the oil pan gasket was leaking like a pro and had to be replaced anyway...

While I was anyway down there I also covered:
- Transmission mounts
- Engine mounts (even though they still look good and have been replced already)
- O2 sensors pre cat
- Transmission fluid change (incl. new filter)
- Diff fluid change
- Coolant flush (because I broke the connecting pin towards the reservoir when removing the fan )
- Replaced the leaky power steering reservoir incl. fluid change

If someone is interested: I have a full Rod Bearing Service set with BE bearings, ARP2000 bolts, Assembly lube ... left that I was waiting fro several months
What a nice surprice mate! Strange that the guy who sold it didn't think it was worth to mention, so you no idea how many miles on that shell then?

Last edited by Helmsman; 04-06-2020 at 10:04 AM..
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