DIY: S65 M3 Rod Bearing

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by iamthestig_91

Haha im still in my 20s so it wasnt terrible. Shoulders were on fire the whole time. Basically was bench pressing everything to its location.

Electric Ratchet Wrench was invaluable

Multiple people have done it on jackstands and I'm impressed.

I have a quickjack and still drive 2h to a place that rents a full lift

Glad it was helpful!

[jvictormp]

About ACL mixed set from Lang, the binning is not made by Lang. They come sealed from ACL, with their commitment of being mixed. Don't know if ACL measures 100% of the shells in that package, though.

I'm going to do mine myself next month, BE shells + BE-ARP bolts.

[Ngilbe36]

Originally Posted by iamthestig_91

Absolutely Impeccable DIY. Had some hiccups but it was pretty smooth. Used jackstands, was annoying but not impossible.

Can confirm, doing it under jackstands is a PITA but doable.

[WhiteM3EMC]

Regarding the o rings and seals, how many people are actually replacing these? I see them listed in the parts list but saw mention of people having them leftover after the job. Is it necessary to replace these if they're in good shape?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Ngilbe36

Can confirm, doing it under jackstands is a PITA but doable.

incredible

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by WhiteM3EMC

Regarding the o rings and seals, how many people are actually replacing these? I see them listed in the parts list but saw mention of people having them leftover after the job. Is it necessary to replace these if they're in good shape?

I replace them every time, although they all look pretty happy when they get replaced.

Still, to dismount something inside the engine and not replace a couple O rings that are $8 each... why?

[WhiteM3EMC]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I replace them every time, although they all look pretty happy when they get replaced.

Still, to dismount something inside the engine and not replace a couple O rings that are $8 each... why?

No I completely agree with you, just curious. I planned to do it myself unless someone said it was completely unnecessary. As a general rule I always replace O rings when working on a car.

Did you end up using every O ring that you have listed in your original post? Just trying to get everything together beforehand so when my bearings show up I'm ready to go.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by WhiteM3EMC

No I completely agree with you, just curious. I planned to do it myself unless someone said it was completely unnecessary. As a general rule I always replace O rings when working on a car.

Did you end up using every O ring that you have listed in your original post? Just trying to get everything together beforehand so when my bearings show up I'm ready to go.

The only O rings you need are these:
11417839832 - pickup tube o-ring
11417839833 - pickup tube o-ring

I've bolded them in the original post. Just 2. Well worth it

[WhiteM3EMC]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

The only O rings you need are these:
11417839832 - pickup tube o-ring
11417839833 - pickup tube o-ring

I've bolded them in the original post. Just 2. Well worth it

Excellent, thank you!

[deansbimmer]

Originally Posted by WhiteM3EMC

Excellent, thank you!

Yes. Always replace them. We re-did one a while ago where another shop didn't change them. The flat spot on the old o-rings didn't reseal and aerated the oil picked up from the sump. It wreaked havoc with the vanos and the engine was very noisy. Oil filter housing oil was clearly aerated as pictured. This wouldn't happen in all cases but it did that time. Almost cost him an engine.

So...always replace O-rings once you disturb them.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by deansbimmer

Yes. Always replace them. We re-did one a while ago where another shop didn't change them. The flat spot on the old o-rings didn't reseal and aerated the oil picked up from the sump. It wreaked havoc with the vanos and the engine was very noisy. Oil filter housing oil was clearly aerated as pictured. This wouldn't happen in all cases but it did that time. Almost cost him an engine.

So...always replace O-rings once you disturb them.

Wow, almost despised that change, until I see this post.

[WhiteM3EMC]

Question for the group, the when you're replacing the bearings? Is it important that the back of the bearing be completely dry? It seems virtually impossible to keep the back of the bearing completely dry as you wriggle it into place. I notice as i pull the old bearings, there's oil on the back of them. So clearly, oil gets in there eventually. Maybe deansbimmer or admranger or SYT_Shadow ? Or anyone else with a qualified opinion, mean no disrespect if you weren't tagged

[VictorH]

No! Oil gets everywhere, lube the bearing surface real well and don't worry about what gets on the backside.
I'm at 60,000 miles post rod bearing replacement.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by VictorH

No! Oil gets everywhere, lube the bearing surface real well and don't worry about what gets on the backside.
I'm at 60,000 miles post rod bearing replacement.

Oil does get all over the place. But a with a quick caveat: make sure the backs are free of lint, hair or debris of any kind.

Cheers,

[WhiteM3EMC]

Got it done, wouldn't have been possible without this DIY. Feel so much better having that done.

Couple notes, the 12mm 12pt socket worked just fine for me removing the OEM rod bolts

I found it significantly easier to completely ignore the belt tensioner until after the subfrane was dropped. It was a nightmare attempting to loosen that thing with the subframe in the way.

Other than that, it went well. First 2 bearing sets were nerve racking but it's very simple once you get the hang of it.

I agree with what others have stated, when using a lift, i didn't find the subframe to be that annoying at all while hanging there

These bearings have 32k miles and one track weekend on them

[SYT_Shadow]

Good thing you changed them!

[WhiteM3EMC]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Good thing you changed them!

Also, can barely tell that I have solid rubber motor mounts vs the stock ones.
The OEM ones honestly didn't look too bad but figured I'd change them while I was in there

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by WhiteM3EMC

Also, can barely tell that I have solid rubber motor mounts vs the stock ones.
The OEM ones honestly didn't look too bad but figured I'd change them while I was in there

Always replace oem engine mounts when do you rod bearings.

I have solid rubber ones from Bimmerworld and they are definitely more solid than stock, although a few weeks ago I did rod bearings for a forum member and he had ECS solid mounts which felt just like oem

[jvictormp]

Hi guys, I'm starting the job here, since we're in quarantine because of the covid.

First question, is this a good height?

[SYT_Shadow]

I guess... i haven't done it on jackstands
That shows true commitment!!

[tdott]

higher the better, i would prefer to have more to if you want to leave the suspension/subframe hanging.

If you remove everything then you might be fine.

[jvictormp]

Right, so I'm lifting a little more.