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| 11-15-2019, 06:50 PM | #441 |
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When measuring and selecting the ACL Bearings, I was basically looking to identify eight H bearings with the nominal thickness of .07870” and eight HX bearings with a nominal thickness of .07815” I was able to accomplish this, but I should point out that with the 16 bearings in each set, 2 of the bearings were thinner than nominal, 8 were exactly nominal, and 6 were thicker than nominal.
My engine has a build date of 9/08 so the bearing are the 088/089 version. I believe the nominal thickness of the 088/089 bearings are .07885” (top) and .07865” (bottom). I measured my old bearings as well. I’ll crunch the numbers a bit later and post the results. |
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| 11-15-2019, 09:06 PM | #443 | |
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https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...t=Rod+bearings |
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| 11-15-2019, 09:25 PM | #444 |
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So hear is the measured thickness of the 088/089 bearing removed from the motor (at the 90 degree point). The bearings had ~51k miles but looked better than most of the pictures posted here. Unfortunately, the deepest wear is typically not at the point 90 degrees from the parting line. The most wear is around 60 degrees from the parting line.
In order of cylinder 1 to 8: Top/Bottom .07865/.07870 .07865/.07870 .07840/.07880 .07860/.07865 .07855/.07870 .07865/.07860 .07845/.07860 .07840/.07870 Consistent with the measurements, the top bearing on cylinder 3,7, and 8 showed the most wear. |
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| 11-16-2019, 04:11 AM | #445 | |
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ACL committ to a 0.008mm/0.000315" thickness variation (btw BE has 0.012mm due to coating which they compensate nicely with binning/matching), their own H spec says 0.0783-0.0787 (with 0.0785 "nominal"), and HX 0.0778-0.0781 (0.0780 "nominal"). Also curious on what minimum thickness you measured, to see if it correlate with stated 0.008mm tolerance. Thanks Last edited by Helmsman; 11-16-2019 at 04:24 AM.. |
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| 11-16-2019, 05:48 AM | #446 | |
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| 11-16-2019, 06:35 AM | #447 | |
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Do I get you right, you measured a 0.00005x2 => 0.0001 variation in respective H and HX set? If so not bad, less then a third of an already pretty tight 0.00031 spec. |
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| 11-17-2019, 10:29 AM | #448 | |
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| 11-19-2019, 11:27 PM | #449 | |
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| 11-19-2019, 11:49 PM | #450 | |
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| 11-19-2019, 11:54 PM | #451 | |
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| 11-19-2019, 11:57 PM | #452 |
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Yes, it's a bell curve. I've seen Bert's graphs that he keeps for all BE measurements. Bert throws away anything that's farther than +/- 5-sigma. But withing 5-sigma, it's a very normal bell curve as you suspect.
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| 11-20-2019, 08:50 PM | #453 |
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| 12-16-2019, 06:05 PM | #454 |
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Just did this job on a friends car. My suggestion is to remove the subframe entirely, it's only 6 nuts and maybe added about 15 minutes to the job between removal and reinstall. I feel like you will more than make up for that time in how much easier and quicker you'll be able to get to the rods and change the bearings themselves. The last thing I want to be doing when trying to remove the bearing is fighting a dirty subframe. YMMV.
Fan removal also seems unnecessary as was mentioned before, and you risk breaking the thin delicate coolant hose going across the radiator. Besides that the worst part was the endless amounts of oil that keep dripping on you, especially when you rotate the engine. Seemed like way more than any S54 I've done.
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| 12-16-2019, 06:52 PM | #455 | |
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You think more oil drips down on this engine vs the S54? I did another S54 not long ago and it took longer than the S65. |
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| 12-16-2019, 07:53 PM | #456 |
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If you have the luxury of pulling the pan and pump/pickup and then letting it sit overnight, the drips might be fewer. A lift is nice because it gives you room to stand to the side at times to reduce drippage on you.
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| 12-31-2019, 11:14 AM | #457 |
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I did this job on my M3 over the last few weekends and I wanted to thank the OP. Your guide is very helpful and I was able to learn a lot about my M3 by doing this job at home.
I used ACL HX Bearings, Corteco motor mounts, genuine BMW gaskets and seals, and ARP fasteners for the rod bolts. |
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| 12-31-2019, 12:55 PM | #458 | |
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| 01-16-2020, 02:18 AM | #459 |
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Absolutely Impeccable DIY. Had some hiccups but it was pretty smooth. Used jackstands, was annoying but not impossible.
I mistakenly disconnected my battery at first and then reconnected it when it said to put the car into neutral. Now my mirror controls are not correlating to the button press and the driver window button controls the passenger window and vice versa. Also, rear park distance control doesn't work either. Other than that, car runs great! Used BE bearings with ARP bolts. |
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| 01-16-2020, 06:40 AM | #460 |
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A real man, doing it on jack stands!
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| 01-16-2020, 12:15 PM | #462 |
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Haha im still in my 20s so it wasnt terrible. Shoulders were on fire the whole time. Basically was bench pressing everything to its location.
Electric Ratchet Wrench was invaluable |
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