Track forum general chit chat.

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by dparm

Thanks. Is the software performing smoothing? Can you turn that off or reduce the smoothing factor?

I've never used the AIM software. I am more familiar with Cosworth's Pi Toolbox but I assume it's similar.

I called AIM to ask them your question about smoothing. They say they don't smooth ECU data. They asked for the session so they could take a look. I sent it to them. We'll see what they say.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by slicer

M-world makes a plug and play harness to do it without splicing factory wires. I made my own.

Do you have a diy you referenced? It's not something the shop I'm using offers so I'll have to do the work myself. With the plug and play harness from m-world, the whole thing is $800 which might be the easiest option.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by dogbone

I called AIM to ask them your question about smoothing. They say they don't smooth ECU data. They asked for the session so they could take a look. I sent it to them. We'll see what they say.

Thanks. Keep me posted. Pi Toolbox doesn't smooth either, but you can actually do it by changing the resolution downwards on the math channel or using an operator to "round" the values off.

10Hz should be fast enough to not have weird overlap like that.

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by dparm

Thanks. Keep me posted. Pi Toolbox doesn't smooth either, but you can actually do it by changing the resolution downwards on the math channel or using an operator to "round" the values off.

10Hz should be fast enough to not have weird overlap like that.

It is possible that the brake pedal just takes its sweet old time to return fully to the neutral position. It IS a 10 year-old car.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by slicer

Why would I need to reach it? I put the screen in lap timer mode while on track. It's visible in my line of site, has shift lights, all good.

I would forget to turn it on after strapped in. Sometimes I forget to close the door lmao

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by Ximian

I'm keeping an eye out for those, but I've been finding them for $500 or so which means it makes more sense to get the new Solo 2 DL.

Should be some for less. My brother has the 2 and I was fed up with how much time I had to spend to get it to work without having to learn new things.

I also charged it a week ahead of time only to learn that even though it was never turned on, it had lost it's full charge! Wtf

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by Ximian

Do you have a diy you referenced? It's not something the shop I'm using offers so I'll have to do the work myself. With the plug and play harness from m-world, the whole thing is $800 which might be the easiest option.

Mworld has instructions. It's easy I just followed it.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

I would forget to turn it on after strapped in. Sometimes I forget to close the door lmao

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

Should be some for less. My brother has the 2 and I was fed up with how much time I had to spend to get it to work without having to learn new things.

I also charged it a week ahead of time only to learn that even though it was never turned on, it had lost it's full charge! Wtf

Do you use a Solo DL or the regular Solo (non-DL)? The DL is hooked up to Can Bus and turns on automatically any time the car's ECU is active. Lap timing begins automatically when the car is in motion. There's nothing to 'turn on'. Is the Solo DL not the same?

I would recommend anyone hard-wire the power to avoid any issues with the battery. However you definitely want to unplug the unit when not in use or be sure to wire to switched power that will only be active when the car is on. Otherwise It will drain your car's battery since it automatically turns on whenever the ECU does anything.... which to me is the most annoying aspect of the AIM. I wish it could be turned off completely while still plugged in.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by Ximian

Do you have a diy you referenced? It's not something the shop I'm using offers so I'll have to do the work myself. With the plug and play harness from m-world, the whole thing is $800 which might be the easiest option.

DIY here:
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...ht=aim+solo+dl

I made my own PnP harness with BMW parts. No DIY for that. Just need to know your stuff

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by slicer

Do you use a Solo DL or the regular Solo (non-DL)? The DL is hooked up to Can Bus and turns on automatically any time the car's ECU is active. There's nothing to turn on. Lap timing begins automatically when the car is in motion. I would recommend anyone hard-wire the power to avoid any issues with the battery. However you definitely want to unplug the unit when not in use. It will drain your car's battery since it automatically turns on whenever the ECU does anything.... which to me is the most annoying aspect of the AIM. You should be able to turn it completely off.

The E46 is nice in this respect. I am able to leave it connected all the time without it draining the battery. I do however usually disconnect it anyways at end of track weekend otherwise it occasionally will start the camera when I load up car on the trailer. I have several hours of in car video of my car being pulled down highway.

It's amazing to me how many folks don't hardwire these to power. Almost everyone of my buddies that used the M World harness and instructions only wired the can and then complained about forgetting to charge it before the weekend.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

The E46 is nice in this respect. I am able to leave it connected all the time without it draining the battery. I do however usually disconnect it anyways at end of track weekend otherwise it occasionally will start the camera when I load up car on the trailer. I have several hours of in car video of my car being pulled down highway.

It's amazing to me how many folks don't hardwire these to power. Almost everyone of my buddies that used the M World harness and instructions only wired the can and then complained about forgetting to charge it before the weekend.

Exactly. Hard wiring to power is far easier than wiring to CAN. Not sure why people stop there...

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by slicer

I would recommend anyone hard-wire the power to avoid any issues with the battery. However you definitely want to unplug the unit when not in use. It will drain your car's battery since it automatically turns on whenever the ECU does anything.... which to me is the most annoying aspect of the AIM. I wish it could be turned off completely while still plugged in.

As far as the car battery, I think it depends on where you wire the AIM for power. Mine does not charge unless the ignition is fully on or the engine is running. In my car, if the AIM sniffs CAN data and turns on, the AIM will die. Nothing will happen to the car battery.

[trm0053]

Originally Posted by jid2

Where is the best place to tap into the CAN signal, I still need to do it on my AIM.

I've got m-world wiring harness for sale here -> https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24884678

[slicer]

Originally Posted by dogbone

As far as the car battery, I think it depends on where you wire the AIM for power. Mine does not charge unless the ignition is fully on or the engine is running. In my car, if the AIM sniffs CAN data and turns on, the AIM will die. Nothing will happen to the car battery.

Shoot, good point. I also wired mine to switched power therefore it's true that it won't drain the car battery. It will drain the AIM battery only.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by slicer

Do you use a Solo DL or the regular Solo (non-DL)? The DL is hooked up to Can Bus and turns on automatically any time the car's ECU is active. Lap timing begins automatically when the car is in motion. There's nothing to 'turn on'. Is the Solo DL not the same?

I would recommend anyone hard-wire the power to avoid any issues with the battery. However you definitely want to unplug the unit when not in use or be sure to wire to switched power that will only be active when the car is on. Otherwise It will drain your car's battery since it automatically turns on whenever the ECU does anything.... which to me is the most annoying aspect of the AIM. I wish it could be turned off completely while still plugged in.

Yes, Yes, and Yes.
Sound advice from the BBS man.

[rhyary]

Mounting to the cap holder works very well for me.
It is removable
There is a bolt with two plates sandwiching the cap holder and the AiM is mounted to the plate.

I can reach the button to flip the screens.

I have three screens I flip:
1. Lap information
2. Potentiometers display one for each corner
3. Car vitals. (temps etc)

Having unreachable buttons would drive me crazy just on principle. :-)
.

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Mounting to the cap holder works very well for me.
It is removable
There is a bolt with two plates sandwiching the cap holder and the AiM is mounted to the plate.

I can reach the button to flip the screens.

I have three screens I flip:
1. Lap information
2. Potentiometers display one for each corner
3. Car vitals. (temps etc)

Having unreachable buttons would drive me crazy just on principle. :-)
.

Lol you love to misspell cup! It's cup not cap.

All kidding aside. Very nice setup!

[VicS5]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

Lol you love to misspell cup! It's cup not cap.

All kidding aside. Very nice setup!

Using speech recognition software?

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by VicS5

Using speech recognition software?

Yes. RaceVoice.
working with the developer and giving him my usual "Here is where it needs to be better" so it can be useful.

It is very impressive as it connects to the Aim system on CAN 2. But because NYST has 18 turns and they are close, it talks too much :-)

So I shrank each turn closer to the appex and made choices on the entry, min speed and exit.

For example, if you turn on exit on a turn, and entry speed on the next turn the announcement comes too close. If you add minimum speed, it calculate that after the exit. etc.

Work in progress but excellent technology.

Lastly, I adjusted the brake alarm as well. I started at 1200 psi but this is full press on. Not much to learn there. I them moved of down to 1000 psi, but I found that 800 psi is the most interesting since that is a soft hard brskes where the car is still leveled and does not stand on its nose.

The system is track aware. So I am loading NYST and or comes with all the turnns, which I the modified and saved as NYST-dry. I also have NYST-wet.

The ability to save a track was not there and is something that within 2 days of getting it to work I was already on the developer to make that a priority. Another option was to let me transmit the saved settings. The way I got it it was first loading the settings from the device, overwriting my settings, then transmitting the settings to the device. Meh. I did not line that behavior.

I integrated the RaceVoice into the SmartyCam microphone and my stereo system via the Aux In. So on the track, I set the stereo to Aux In and hear the RaceVoice in the speakers. At the same time, it is also being recorded on the SmartyCam.

Anyway, the RaceVoice is a realtime application, so the key thing is select the specific segment you want to work on. Otherwise it becomes a chatty couch you turns off stop listing to.

It is a very promising technology, but I am paying attention on how it can help, not just being cool.

More on this later as I get more experienced with the technology. The developer is focused on racing. I am focused on HPDE. So we are coming to the product from two different angles. Racing you are focusing on winning. HPDE you are focused on maximizing the learning while engaging in expensive hobby

[rhyary]

I want to publicly thank roastbeef for finding Future Classics solution to the M12 front hub weakness. I thought about Rogue Engineering solution but did not like it. Too much drilling.

My brakes hubs are already M14 ready so NO drilling.

I think Future Classic came up with the perfect and elegant solution.
.
.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by rhyary

I want to publicly thank roastbeef for finding Future Classics solution to the M12 front hub weakness. I thought about Rogue Engineering solution but did not like it. Too much drilling.

My brakes hubs are already M14 ready so NO drilling.

I think Future Classic came up with the perfect and elegant solution.
.
.

Looks great, but slicer is who actually turned me on to it.

So did you get studs? Titanium? Is see you're back to the CCB's, what was causing the problem with the excessive wear you were getting?

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Looks great, but slicer is who actually turned me on to it.

So did you get studs? Titanium? Is see you're back to the CCB's, what was causing the problem with the excessive wear you were getting?

No studs for now. I don't feel like introducing one more variable into what is already multi factors changes. Just OEM M14 lugs
.
There is no excessive wear on the pads. We do know now that the passenger front internal pad wears out more than the other 3. The front wear pattern is from most to least:
1. Passenger inside
2. Passenger outside
3. Driver inside
4. Driver ouside.

Currently the most wear is 7mm and least wear is 9mm.

All pads are identical so we flipped them accordingly to even out the wear.

You live and learn (it was expensive lesson) and now that I know, I check thickness where it count.