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      05-28-2015, 09:56 PM   #1035
tech2351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maloo View Post
I haven't used it but I believe the Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40 is the one you want. It meets the BMW LL-01 spec.
Why is everyone so fixated on the ll-01? You really shouldn't run such long intervals anyway especially if you're rather hard on the engine. Just because it's "spec" does not always mean "best".
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      05-28-2015, 10:09 PM   #1036
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Originally Posted by tech2351 View Post
Why is everyone so fixated on the ll-01? You really shouldn't run such long intervals anyway especially if you're rather hard on the engine. Just because it's "spec" does not always mean "best".

So what non-spec oil do you recommend?
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      05-29-2015, 04:11 PM   #1037
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Yes the long life stuff means nothing to me, I change oil every 4-5k due to being supercharged.
I just sent Motul a email, see if they get back to me. Thinking perhaps a blend of two of their oils to get maybe a 5w50 weight thats fully synthetic may be what I end up going with.
Still got two cases of TWS 10w60 castrol edge professional I need to use up first though.
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      05-29-2015, 05:41 PM   #1038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squartus View Post
Yes the long life stuff means nothing to me, I change oil every 4-5k due to being supercharged.
I just sent Motul a email, see if they get back to me. Thinking perhaps a blend of two of their oils to get maybe a 5w50 weight thats fully synthetic may be what I end up going with.
Still got two cases of TWS 10w60 castrol edge professional I need to use up first though.

LL-01 is for the high sulfur fuels we use in the US not so much for the long life.
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      05-29-2015, 07:21 PM   #1039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maloo View Post
LL-01 is for the high sulfur fuels we use in the US not so much for the long life.
I am not sure about that. LL-01 is worldwide!
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      05-29-2015, 08:50 PM   #1040
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Originally Posted by aussiem3 View Post
I am not sure about that. LL-01 is worldwide!

It may be worldwide but LL-04 is what should be used in the EU.

https://www.motul.com/system/product...pdf?1323967432
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      05-29-2015, 08:57 PM   #1041
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Ah thanks for pointing that out, makes perfect sense though.
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      05-29-2015, 09:31 PM   #1042
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Originally Posted by squartus View Post
Ah thanks for pointing that out, makes perfect sense though.

Blending weights should be fine if you are using the same brand and same spec. I would imagine the additive package profile is very similar among a brand's different weights. I use straight up Pennzoil Euro 5w40 but if I tracked more I would consider blending in some of the new BMW Twin Power 10w60 because it is made by Shell which also makes the Pennzoil.
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      05-29-2015, 09:35 PM   #1043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squartus View Post
Has anyone tried Motul 300V POWER 5W40 or 0W40? Top tier fully synthetic, its pricy but if you order it by case its not so bad.
They also have a 15w50 and a 20w60 but dont see that helping with cold starts any lol.
Hi, I have used the Motul 300V 5W40, 0W40, and 5W30 on several different vehicles for hpde, track, autox, and daily. I love this stuff, but this stuff is expensive, that's all i can tell you. Oh, and these things smells super good... like drinkable good!!

I use it on short drain intervals usually no longer than 7,500km at MAX. These are not really meant for daily as i was told, but i am sure it is fine. I used the 5W40 and 0W40 on my modded 335i, it basically cured my oil burning problem. And as previously mentioned, for some reason, when i ran M1 0W40 in the 335i on long drives, my engine feels weak... responded and power is noticeably diminished. Another member also noticed this observation. However, when i switched to Motul 300V, that cured the problem as well... So i am sure the Motul 300V is good stuff. Motul sponsor many famous and goo racing teams across the globe, sure they know a thing or two about oil. (even though oil for consumer is for sure going to be different).

I will not waste money on this stuff, i shouldnt have myself either as i should really be using this as a dedicated racing oil. The cheapest by the case i have found is here: (http://motulusa.carshopinc.com/index.../303729/page/3) case of 12 = 24L. Should be good for two and a half oil change.
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      05-29-2015, 09:39 PM   #1044
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Actually, some vendors on ebay sell 300V for cheaper for the 0W40 variant~ Good luck!
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      05-30-2015, 11:18 AM   #1045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
Last 3 is Mobil1 0W40. I forgot to mention that I did run a tank of Techron before this oil change. Don't know if that does anything or not:
So my car is getting a new BMW remanufactured engine as we speak, and I have been doing research on what oil I plan to use once the break in period is through...

I have looked at a lot of Blackstone reports of Mobil 1 0-40 users here and other forums, and the one thing that stands out is the slight increase in two metals- Aluminum and Iron...

I have noticed on numerous reports that although 0w-40 does seem to statistically lower lead and copper levels, iron and aluminum seem to slightly rise...

Could this mean that 0w-40 is better for the bearings, but with a trade off of increased wear on other engine components?

Just an observation...
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      05-30-2015, 06:16 PM   #1046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IIAp3x View Post
So my car is getting a new BMW remanufactured engine as we speak, and I have been doing research on what oil I plan to use once the break in period is through...

I have looked at a lot of Blackstone reports of Mobil 1 0-40 users here and other forums, and the one thing that stands out is the slight increase in two metals- Aluminum and Iron...

I have noticed on numerous reports that although 0w-40 does seem to statistically lower lead and copper levels, iron and aluminum seem to slightly rise...

Could this mean that 0w-40 is better for the bearings, but with a trade off of increased wear on other engine components?

Just an observation...
It's a trade off, yes. That's what plenty of Blackstone reports say.

Look at how much lead and copper drops, and how only slightly the aluminum and iron goes up. I'm right at the average so I'm not worried.
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      05-31-2015, 10:58 AM   #1047
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I did a round trip of 600 km today, and doing an average speed of 110km/h, I averaged 11.4l/100km with M1 0w-40. The outside temp was 20 Celsius, and the whole time the oil temp floated between 88-90, and the coolant temp was 68.
Also in my previous two TWS 10w-60 oil changes, I had to top up a litre after 2k km, yes exactly after 2k km. With M1 0w-40, I have don 2k km already, and the oil level has dropped to half way mark. Yes, it is burning, but not the rate TWS did.
I also have done spirited driving in the 2k km to date. I am interested to see the wear metal when I do the 6k km change.
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      06-23-2015, 06:38 PM   #1048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussiem3 View Post
I saw M1 5w-40 in the stores and it's a semi synthetic oil. I don't know what it will do to the engine given that we've always run fully synthetic oil. 5w is still better than TWS 10w, but what we're trying to counter is the cold start bearing wear.

One thing for sure, the M1 0w-40 warms up a lot faster than TWS. The other night when I started the car the oil temp was 16 Celsius, and in no time it was 70 Celsius. With TWS it would have taken me a good 20 minutes of driving to get to anywhere close to that.



I am doing well since my change to M1. It's been 1k km and the oil level is ok, although I was surprised it wasn't near maximum given that when I put 9 litres with TWS it shows that mark once the oil level is read.

I am wondering more than the bearing themselves, whether the oil pump is a contributor to this bearing where. I've noticed with TWS, and when cold, the cold start is extremely rough and lumpy. With M1 it is a lot smoother and the engine revs freely.

Experts out there, any thoughts on this?
I experienced the same thing, also the valves ticking seem louder.
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      06-24-2015, 04:04 AM   #1049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V1.47fan View Post
I experienced the same thing, also the valves ticking seem louder.
I have done 3k km on M1 0w-40. I looked at the oil change interval and it's still showing 25k km and June 2017 as the due date. Now that's puzzling. I changed the oil in April this year. Looks like the sensor is not reading the oil quality and the degradation.

Also the valvetronic is very loud. I don't know whether BMW used 10w-60 to counter this excessive noise and stop people from complaining. I am having second thoughts now with M1 0w-40. When I don't have the stereo on, it's extremely loud inside the cabin.
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      06-24-2015, 11:54 AM   #1050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussiem3 View Post
I have done 3k km on M1 0w-40. I looked at the oil change interval and it's still showing 25k km and June 2017 as the due date. Now that's puzzling. I changed the oil in April this year. Looks like the sensor is not reading the oil quality and the degradation.

Also the valvetronic is very loud. I don't know whether BMW used 10w-60 to counter this excessive noise and stop people from complaining. I am having second thoughts now with M1 0w-40. When I don't have the stereo on, it's extremely loud inside the cabin.
If you ever switch back to 10W60, please use an iphone app or decibel meter to measure the noise difference.

Maybe my ears are shot from my motorcycle days, but I really can't tell the noise difference between 0W40 and 10W60 after the engine's warmed up.
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      06-24-2015, 12:10 PM   #1051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussiem3 View Post
I have done 3k km on M1 0w-40. I looked at the oil change interval and it's still showing 25k km and June 2017 as the due date. Now that's puzzling. I changed the oil in April this year. Looks like the sensor is not reading the oil quality and the degradation.

Also the valvetronic is very loud. I don't know whether BMW used 10w-60 to counter this excessive noise and stop people from complaining. I am having second thoughts now with M1 0w-40. When I don't have the stereo on, it's extremely loud inside the cabin.
We don't have valvetronic, its VANOS tick you're most likely hearing
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      06-24-2015, 04:38 PM   #1052
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Originally Posted by Shredicus View Post
We don't have valvetronic, its VANOS tick you're most likely hearing
Sorry, my bad.
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      06-24-2015, 04:43 PM   #1053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leonardo629 View Post
If you ever switch back to 10W60, please use an iphone app or decibel meter to measure the noise difference.

Maybe my ears are shot from my motorcycle days, but I really can't tell the noise difference between 0W40 and 10W60 after the engine's warmed up.
I am planning to do the decibel test. In fact I might do it this weekend. Also my exhaust note sounds weird. I have ///PE and I don't know whether it's cracked or any other sound from the engine being carried through. It sounds like something is vibrating. I have the V1 of the ///PE and have had it for the last five years without an issue. But last couple of weeks I noticed it being a lot more raspier than usual. I know a lot of people have suffered cracked exhausts with the earlier version.
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      06-25-2015, 01:12 PM   #1054
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On my second fill of M1 0-40, after 5 months, 3500 miles, I've had to add 1 full bottle of oil on the same driving habit. Based on my experience, the M1 is definitely being consumed much quicker than TWS, at twice the rate in fact.
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      06-25-2015, 06:29 PM   #1055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Ace View Post
On my second fill of M1 0-40, after 5 months, 3500 miles, I've had to add 1 full bottle of oil on the same driving habit. Based on my experience, the M1 is definitely being consumed much quicker than TWS, at twice the rate in fact.
I hate to break it to you, but I think your car has a drinking problem
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      06-25-2015, 07:37 PM   #1056
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I hate to break it to you, but I think your car has a drinking problem
hope it doesn't beat its wife and commit suicide
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