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02-01-2025LAST POST
Took ace996's instructions and took some pictures for anyone interested. The hardest part was removing the e-clips, but the right tools help.

Tools used:

T-25 Torx Driver
Flashlight
Various Bent Picks

Tom's Instructions
ace996 wrote
I forgot to take pics of this...but my description should be sufficient...it is quite easy.

Ditched the clutch-spring today...about 5 minutes total. You need a little torx bit and something to pull two little e-clips...I used a curved pick.

1. Under the steering wheel, there are three little screws you need to remove, this allows the plate/cover that shields the pedal-innards to be removed. Once they are out, the plate/cover drops down...just watch the wires.

2. Behind the clutch pedal, there is a spring...it looks like a little black coilover...that is what is removed, not the silver spring that pulls it up in front (closer to the driver). You need to use the pick, or something else, to pull the e-clips that are on the left-side of the restraining pins (the top and bottom of the coilover).

3. Push the pedal, by hand, all the way to the floor and push the locating pins (top and bottom) out. This will allow you to pull the top of the coilover out and then the bottom.

4. Put the cover back and install the three screws. That's it.

I've done this to all the cars I've owned over the past few years. What this does is give a consistant feel to the pedal on release. You know how the pedal feels hard at first when you push down, then it gets easier? Now it's just the same feel the whole way down...not really harder...but it doesn't get easier.

The real reason for this... when I release the pedal, you can feel the engagement point much better, instead of the wandering/vague point with the spring. I never feel comfortable with the spring installed, as it feels as if the engagement point is never quite same from one day to the next. Now, the lever release is linear...no change in pressure from one inch to the next.

Depending on how I feel, I may tackle the clutch-stop mod next...

Be good,
TomK
Under the steering wheel you'll find a plastic cover with 3 T-25 screws. Remove these and drop the cover down.

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Once you drop the cover down, it helps to detach this connection so you'll have more room to work. I'm not sure what it is, but it comes off easy enough. Just push the tab on the right side and it slides out.

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e-clip on the left side of the top retaining pin

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e-clip

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e-clip on the left side of bottom retaining pin with scratch marks from me trying to remove it

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Picks I bought at Advance Auto

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This is definitely worth the 10 minutes that it takes. The clutch feels so much more linear. It doesn't pop out at the top of the travel like it used it. If you have even the slightest thought about taking the spring out, do it.
Post referenced by SS32 in Clutch Pedal Spring Removal 12-24-2008
Phenomenal write-up!!! Great job and glad you like the change.
Be good,
TomK
Thank-you! guys.
awesome...gonna try this tomorrow.
cowmoo32 wrote
Took ace996's instructions and took some pictures for anyone interested. The hardest part was removing the e-clips, but the right tools help.


This is definitely worth the 10 minutes that it takes. The clutch feels so much more linear. It doesn't pop out at the top of the travel like it used it. If you have even the slightest thought about taking the spring out, do it.
What's the point of this mod? I don't know what the clutch pedal spring does? Can someone please explain?
I did the same thing and the clutch def feels much better! Great DIY.
Awesome!!! Just did it and the clutch feels much better, no "click/pop" upon release.
Thread referenced by lucid in E9X M3 DIY Index 03-29-2009
did mine tonight took like 10min and it feels awesome. I agree definitley no pop at the top.
this is a nice idea until you realize you need an acrobat midget to accomlish this. I cant even see the clips to be removed. i can barely reach in and feel where they are so after half hour of messing around put it back together until my midget acrobat shows up to help.
I also thought this was a PITA to do because it took me a while to find a good position to get the upper clip off while holding my light. I ended up lying down upside down on the driver's seat hahah. It was worth it though as it changes the clutch feel immensely. It is MUCH easier to shift smoothly when shifting quickly. Highly recommended, a little pain for a big benefit!
chriszeh wrote
this is a nice idea until you realize you need an acrobat midget to accomlish this. I cant even see the clips to be removed. i can barely reach in and feel where they are so after half hour of messing around put it back together until my midget acrobat shows up to help.
I'm 6' 2" and got it done. It's not the easiest place to work, but it's definitely possible.
i am going to try again shortly as i have a track day coming up. I just wasnt in the mood to mess with this that day i guess.
got this done today. Havent driven the car yet so unsure if it will be something i like. Also my car uses a t-15 for those screws to get the cover off not a t25. mabe i need more drive time but each time i drive the car i forget i even changed anything so dont think this mod does much.
Thread referenced by alpine335i in Ugh, what am i doing wrong... 04-26-2009
chriszeh wrote
mabe i need more drive time but each time i drive the car i forget i even changed anything so dont think this mod does much.
...put it back in and see if there's a difference...;)
Thread referenced by jdogg2000 in Clutch Spring 05-17-2009
Interesting mod. Why would the engineers put the spring in at all if it feels better without it?
I did this today and love it. It makes for much faster and smoother shifts. The short shift kit is next. A couple of words about the removal. It is a t15 for the screws. I used a set of ring pliers instead of dental picks. It was really hard to get the lower ring but I did not have to employ any left handed acrobatic midgets. I used a small handheld mirror to see the lower lock ring. It was tricky but at six three a better option than standing on my head backwards with my feet over the drivers seat.
Wyatt wrote
Interesting mod. Why would the engineers put the spring in at all if it feels better without it?
This is the question I've been wondering this past couple of days. My shifting is almost perfectly smooth every single time now I have 15000 miles on the car.

Im thinking of putting the spring back on to see if there's any significant change in my shifting behavior.

For those who did this mod a while back, what's your plan?
Remember- this clutch spring is designed to help you push the clutch pedal in and keep it to the floor.

Could everyone post a picture of your clutch springs out of the car?

BMW has a newer updated Dual spring design out now that changes the feel and feedback from the clutch pedal.

When i did the 'swap' to the updated spring, the clutch pedal felt much better and linear than before. The earlier version changed pedal effort almost halfway down which gives you a false impression of clutch engagement/disengagement. The new spring does not seem to do that any more-

Picture-

Right side is the newer updated unit. The left side is the original factory '2008' spring
Attached image
Post referenced by mrtm2008 in '08 E90M3 6MT troubles... 01-18-2010 · and 1 more related reference...
Post referenced by mrtm2008 in Difference between 08 and 09 clutch? 09 much softer? 09-02-2009
Post referenced by anom3 in 2007 E92 M3 Clutch Spring Swap (To 2009+ Version) 05-05-2014
John,

How would I go about getting one of these? Thanks
I've got the newer two spring setup pictured on the right. 6/09 build.

I'm glad you posted this. I did the clutch spring removal mod this weekend and didn't like the feel - it was too abrupt. Good to know there's a difference.

Maybe I'm just not very good at shifting, but the clutch just feels perfect with the spring in -- I think I'll be putting it back in this weekend.
DevJ wrote
John,

How would I go about getting one of these? Thanks
You need to order part number: 35-00-6-769-442

That is the newest updated spring!
you guys think we could get our service department to change this piece without charging? If the original piece sucks?