What have you done with or to your M3 today?

Edwardsc1 wrote

Just finished up an oil change, new spark plugs, and new Carbon Cool brake pads

Coming up soon - ICV, thermostat, valve cover gaskets & vanos covers

Love the Cool Carbon pads! Which vanos covers are you installing?

Latinskllz wrote

Love the Cool Carbon pads! Which vanos covers are you installing?

I've really enjoyed them so far! They get pretty noisy if you don't step on them to get the brake dust off pretty often, but wow they work well.

I haven't decided on which vanos covers to go with yet. I'll probably go NRW, looks like they've been putting out some real quality products.

Latinskllz wrote

Love the Cool Carbon pads!

Yeah 100% concur...CC's are very good pads.

Ran'em since circa 2006 on e39 M5, later with two e92 M3s.

Unfortunately, CC doesn't support pad sizes for my BBK set-up.

Currently running Hawk pads: HB581F.660, HB194F.570; pleased so-far with 'spirited driving', autocross, no tracking

Helmsman wrote

Did the same the other month, changes are refreshing! Also as these cars are becoming "classics" I think they kind of look even better OEM.

There must be something in the air. I started having this same thought a couple of weeks ago.

I plan on trying the original chrome grills this weekend and seeing what I think. I already have a sort of old school classic M spec with jet black exterior, bamboo beige interior, and sycamore wood trim.

I agree the E9x M3s are starting to become "modern classics" at between 14 and 18 years old.

Installed an Eventuri plenum, and booked a track day

Shrike360 wrote

Anyone else starting to notice how excited people are to see these cars? After ~9 years of owning an E92, I used to get aggressively ignored driving it around. Now it feels like people are excited to see these cars. Have gotten a lot of people waving at me. I took it around the nearby lake today while a duathlon was going on, and I had bicyclists waving at me and cheering the car. I think we're reaching the point of these cars becoming modern classics.

In addition to similar 'public displays of affection', over recent years experienced multiple random incidents of solicitations/offers to purchase my whip.

Most memorable, during a short convo, a clearly well-to-do 991.2 GT3 guy offered $50K on the spot .

For3 wrote

There must be something in the air.

It's the cell phone t0wers

DrFerry wrote

It's the cell phone t0wers

+1
Yup...all sorts of Trons/RF penetrating & altering our 'grey matter', especially most recent 'man-made appendage'; so-called smart phone

E92Bean wrote

Installed an Eventuri plenum, and booked a track day

E92Bean looking good... don't forget the "///M V8" badge on the new plenum

Wanted a bit more sound so pulled the trigger on the rest of the Laptorr system. Sound clips soon

DrFerry wrote

Kudos for doing the service yourself. I've heard good reports about Thunder Bunny Racing. The storage facility looks awesome.

Another shout out to Thunder Bunny. Great service, clean shop and convenient. They did my rod bearings and Valvetronics exhaust installation. Car runs like a top!!!

Over the course of 5 days had a bunch of random back to back issues with my car. By far the most problematic the car has been after 3yrs of ownership.

•Biggest one being replacing my brake booster after having complete brake failure during my drive home. This happened after slamming my brakes to avoid hitting a couple deers that jumped out. (wasn’t willing to take 2 L’s and potentially messing my front bumper towing it, so my e-brake and slow driving helped me get back home).

•CIC unit completely went out (for anyone that may have this issue in the future, I went and ordered a $180 CIC unit from a 2011 m3. Works perfectly fine, I did code it to my features and my Mr12volt, but besides that very straight forward. Other option is paying some $650+ for a precoded unit or $1000 to have yours rebuilt).

•FRM completely went out (lost all lights, turn signals, window power, etc..) leaving the battery disconnected overnight fixed the issue.

•Believe the CIC unit getting fried and FRM cutting out is due to the IBS going out so hopefully getting that in this weekend.

•As for the good during the bad, I did spoil the car a little with a new driver side fender after putting it off for a long time with the fender failing where it met the bumper and constantly rubbing, new steering wheel to replace the super worn OEM one, pedal haus silver pedals, and biggest change being I decided to practice my wrapping skills while the car was down for the brake booster and went white.

This car has been by far one of the most reliable vehicle I’ve owned. After all the cross country trips it’s done etc.. Think it’s just releasing some stress. I’ll take a very near wreck and bad week with constant back to back issues for hopefully another strong few years lol. Think once the new IBS is on she’ll be fully back. Got another 2k mile road trip coming in a couple months, so better now than later.

DirtyThreeSix wrote

Over the course of 5 days had a bunch of random back to back issues with my car. By far the most problematic the car has been after 3yrs of ownership.

•Biggest one being replacing my brake booster after having complete brake failure during my drive home. This happened after slamming my brakes to avoid hitting a couple deers that jumped out. (wasn’t willing to take 2 L’s and potentially messing my front bumper towing it, so my e-brake and slow driving helped me get back home).

•CIC unit completely went out (for anyone that may have this issue in the future, I went and ordered a $180 CIC unit from a 2011 m3. Works perfectly fine, I did code it to my features and my Mr12volt, but besides that very straight forward. Other option is paying some $650+ for a precoded unit or $1000 to have yours rebuilt).

•FRM completely went out (lost all lights, turn signals, window power, etc..) leaving the battery disconnected overnight fixed the issue.

•Believe the CIC unit getting fried and FRM cutting out is due to the IBS going out so hopefully getting that in this weekend.

•As for the good during the bad, I did spoil the car a little with a new driver side fender after putting it off for a long time with the fender failing where it met the bumper and constantly rubbing, new steering wheel to replace the super worn OEM one, pedal haus silver pedals, and biggest change being I decided to practice my wrapping skills while the car was down for the brake booster and went white.

This car has been by far one of the most reliable vehicle I’ve owned. After all the cross country trips it’s done etc.. Think it’s just releasing some stress. I’ll take a very near wreck and bad week with constant back to back issues for hopefully another strong few years lol. Think once the new IBS is on she’ll be fully back. Got another 2k mile road trip coming in a couple months, so better now than later.

Tough week!

Glad you avoided the accident.

Car looks great, btw.

Now let me ask you something. Does the brake booster come with master cylinder?

The cause of that corrosion on the brake booster is the brake fluid coming off the master cylinder, it's leaking.

If it didn't come with a new cylinder, you're gonna lose the new brake booster soon, unless you take a little extra job now to save it.

jvictormp wrote

Tough week!

Glad you avoided the accident.

Car looks great, btw.

Now let me ask you something. Does the brake booster come with master cylinder?

The cause of that corrosion on the brake booster is the brake fluid coming off the master cylinder, it's leaking.

If it didn't come with a new cylinder, you're gonna lose the new brake booster soon, unless you take a little extra job now to save it.

Thanks! I didn’t order a new cylinder, but I’m positive it’s not leaking. When I first got the car 3yrs ago, I had someone bleed the brakes when I was gone TDY for work (big mistake). He ended up spilling a bunch of brake fluid and taking out the sensor below it. It could’ve been eating at the paint on the booster this whole time maybe not causing a proper seal. There was also a vacuum hose missing a clamp that was also more than likely leaking. Seemed to cause a bunch of pressure to be built up and completely just sheered the bolt when I slammed the brakes. Feeling the difference between the new one and how it was before I think it was a long time coming. Just happy it didn’t happen far from home or when I was on the highway earlier that day.

Out with the old.



In with the new.

I think I might have rid the car of the dreaded cowbell and diff pinion seal leak. Replaced the giubo, center support bearing, packed the driveshaft splines with grease, installed the fcpeuro upgraded pinion seal and checked diff fluid level. Did a shakedown run up to Vancouver BC for a couple days.

spammysammich wrote

I think I might have rid the car of the dreaded cowbell and diff pinion seal leak. Replaced the giubo, center support bearing, packed the driveshaft splines with grease, installed the fcpeuro upgraded pinion seal and checked diff fluid level. Did a shakedown run up to Vancouver BC for a couple days.

spammysammich definitely interested to know findings post "shakedown run".
Curious...seal, bearing, etc changes recommended or a chosen PM?

My experience:

• Cowbelling miraculously disappeared after 1st diff fluid service at ~40K mls [Redline 75W140]
• Second diff change last month @ ~80K mls, still no 'bell ringing'
• Fortunate, never any visible leaks observed to-date

Finally got my square 219s fitted, 18x9.5, et +23. Had them refinished in Highland Bronze. 10mm spacer up front, 12.5mm in rear. No rubbing on S02s 275/35/18. Currently riding on Stock ZCP EDC w/ H&R Sport springs (red), Dinan shaved top hats, Dinan Camber plates and E36 bump stops.

smokinjoe64 wrote

spammysammich definitely interested to know findings post "shakedown run".
Curious...seal, bearing, etc changes recommended or a chosen PM?

My experience:

Cowbelling miraculously disappeared after 1st diff fluid service at ~40K mls [Redline 75W140]
Second diff change last month @ ~80K mls, still no 'bell ringing'
Fortunate, never any visible leaks observed to-date

In my experience the cowbell was coming from near the center support bearing whenever I suddenly loaded the driveline. Like going from reverse to forward or even sudden stabs at the throttle. I could get under the car with it neutral and twist the axles back and forth and make the sound. That’s how I localized it to the center bearing area.

I had no choice but to service the pinion seal. It was starting to drip on the garage floor and sling gear oil on the exhaust pipes making a burning smell.

3 plus hours of driving and my diff is still dry. Driveline is quiet with no unusual vibration. I poked around with my borescope to verify the diff seal. I think I may have a slight exhaust leak at the header/x pipe junction. The evolve test pipes may require a thicker crush gasket than the stock BMW donut.

spammysammich wrote

In my experience the cowbell was coming from near the center support bearing whenever I suddenly loaded the driveline. Like going from reverse to forward or even sudden stabs at the throttle. I could get under the car with it neutral and twist the axles back and forth and make the sound. That’s how I localized it to the center bearing area.

I had no choice but to service the pinion seal. It was starting to drip on the garage floor and sling gear oil into the exhaust making a burning smell.

3 plus hours of driving and my diff is still dry. Driveline is quiet with no unusual vibration. I poked around with my borescope to verify the diff seal. I think I may have a slight exhaust leak at the header/x pipe junction. The evolve test pipes may require a thicker crush gasket than the stock BMW donut.

Interesting findings...wonder if what's described, more an outcome from DCT mechanical forces/characteristics 'transmitted' to diff.
I've not heard similar w/6MTs...but could be wrong.

If I had to guess, there was surface corrosion on both splined surfaces of the drive shaft halves allowing for enough free play in that junction to allow the splines to slap against each other and make that ringing sound. I took a steel brush to both halves of the splined junction to remove the loose rust, then coated the splines with marine trailer axle grease to protect from corrosion and take up the free space in the splines preventing them for banging against each other. The grease trapped under the retaining washer also may act as a noise damper for driveshaft ringing.

Several others have reported success with greasing the splines in conjunction with changing the center support bearing. My CSB was actually in great shape and mouse quiet. I probably could have waited another 40k miles to change it but it was a while you’re in there item.

6mt here and solved the cowbell ringing with lubbing the splines in the half section of the driveshaft. It's still there, but much quieter.