XKxRome0ox wroteDo you have a code scanner? It should read whether it is front of rear.have code for wheel speed sensor but it doesn't indicate which one ................
do I just visually inspect? replace all?
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M3E93 wrotei used one to get the codeDo you have a code scanner? It should read whether it is front of rear.
but it didn't specify front or rear
or maybe I missed it. I'll check again
Mine just went out too, the mechanic hooked up the diagnostic device and was able to read the values from each speed sensor. For my case, the passenger side front sensor wasn't reporting any output.
XKxRome0ox wrotehave code for wheel speed sensor but it doesn't indicate which one ................
do I just visually inspect? replace all?
lynn wroteThat looks very good. Post pics of the iDrive display in a few different modes. I bet the updated resolution and backlighting makes that look better too.
XKxRome0ox wroteDepending on reader it might be showing a small abbreviation of where it is , Carly showed VL (front left in german) ; if english it should show a FL , etc.i used one to get the code
but it didn't specify front or rear
or maybe I missed it. I'll check again
What a pain that this thread isn't loading on the app - my views and opportunities to post are way down. But maybe that's to the betterment of all, LOL. Love that carplay screen replacement, will have to consider that as Mr 12 volt has its problems. I've got a lithium battery option coming direct from the manufacturer for $150. Not positive it will work out but the specs are the same so I will cross my fingers. I figured for that price I am happy to have a 12V battery for various tasks on my workbench should the thing show up revealing the pics or description were misleading. Stay tuned.
Picked up my e90 from the shop in early November after BE rod bearings, guibo, and Carbahn VANOS covers. I had him reuse my valve cover bolts and so far so good, no leaks on the VCs. The rubbers on the bolt were new and a lifetime silicone variation - so not concerend there.
Early in the month I traded my '99 C2 996 for an '03 996 turbo 6MT. The turbo is the car I really wanted when I picked up the C2 - it's wicked fast but I do notice the 400# of extra weight in the turbo and AWD. It's a great contrast to the e90 and I'm strongly considering pulling the Harrop unit for sale and going back to NA on the S65 - making the 996 turbo my horsepower car and enjoying the S65 as it was meant to be enjoyed. In the meantime, I've got Michelin Alpina's on the e90 and waiting to put it to the test - in an el nino winter where we probably won't see a spec of snow. But I'm ready.....
Picked up my e90 from the shop in early November after BE rod bearings, guibo, and Carbahn VANOS covers. I had him reuse my valve cover bolts and so far so good, no leaks on the VCs. The rubbers on the bolt were new and a lifetime silicone variation - so not concerend there.
Early in the month I traded my '99 C2 996 for an '03 996 turbo 6MT. The turbo is the car I really wanted when I picked up the C2 - it's wicked fast but I do notice the 400# of extra weight in the turbo and AWD. It's a great contrast to the e90 and I'm strongly considering pulling the Harrop unit for sale and going back to NA on the S65 - making the 996 turbo my horsepower car and enjoying the S65 as it was meant to be enjoyed. In the meantime, I've got Michelin Alpina's on the e90 and waiting to put it to the test - in an el nino winter where we probably won't see a spec of snow. But I'm ready.....
CamasM3e93 wrotedibs on the harrop if you yank it.What a pain that this thread isn't loading on the app - my views and opportunities to post are way down. But maybe that's to the betterment of all, LOL. Love that carplay screen replacement, will have to consider that as Mr 12 volt has its problems. I've got a lithium battery option coming direct from the manufacturer for $150. Not positive it will work out but the specs are the same so I will cross my fingers. I figured for that price I am happy to have a 12V battery for various tasks on my workbench should the thing show up revealing the pics or description were misleading. Stay tuned.
Picked up my e90 from the shop in early November after BE rod bearings, guibo, and Carbahn VANOS covers. I had him reuse my valve cover bolts and so far so good, no leaks on the VCs. The rubbers on the bolt were new and a lifetime silicone variation - so not concerend there.
Early in the month I traded my '99 C2 996 for an '03 996 turbo 6MT. The turbo is the car I really wanted when I picked up the C2 - it's wicked fast but I do notice the 400# of extra weight in the turbo and AWD. It's a great contrast to the e90 and I'm strongly considering pulling the Harrop unit for sale and going back to NA on the S65 - making the 996 turbo my horsepower car and enjoying the S65 as it was meant to be enjoyed. In the meantime, I've got Michelin Alpina's on the e90 and waiting to put it to the test - in an el nino winter where we probably won't see a spec of snow. But I'm ready.....
My 2008 hit 70k.
TheMechanic wrote+1 I have one in my Ducati. Last year my bike sat from October to March of this year without being started in an unheated garage. I did have to hit the reset button but after I did, the bike fired right up without hesitation.I have one of these, excellent battery. Lasted through a New England winter in a non heated garage with no means of being charged. Battery was at 12.9V after 2 months of negative temps at night. Car started right away.
Make sure you get the bluetooth dongle too, pretty handy device. It will also check your starter motor current draw, and keep a baseline of your voltages.
wyatth wroteAre those the subwoofers?... received the last of the awaited parts. They should all be installed in December.
https://i.postimg.cc/RZyf7kWQ/IMG-5503-copy.jpg
Just installed the intake. Sounds pretty exotic with this and the AA x pipe together. I also installed the bayoptik LCI taillights but I think my right outer is defective. When the car is off, it's working perfectly. When I start the car and turn the right signal on, the right upper indicator light flickers like crazy and it's very dim. Keeping the hazards on, the left is perfect, the right is bad. The right brake led lights are working as expected though. I have the resistor boxes. At first I thought the resistor was bad so I ended up just doing the coding thru bimmercode. Initially I didn't realize I had FRM3 on my car as I would've just bought the OEM harness (MY 10 and built 10/09) so I did the coding just in case it's sending bad current to and from the light. Figured this will keep the car protected but I don't think the resistor is bad though because the brake part of the LEDs is working normally. Reached out to bayoptik hopefully they just send me a new right outer light. I'll probably still just get the harness to avoid having those 2 resistor boxes
Crap.
CamasM3e93 wroteOh no.... Did the mechanic over torque it??Crap.
Time sert gang. One of us! One of us! One of us!
maybe went a little overboard with hte black friday stuff.
bimmerworld -- 92mm studs, solid rear subframe bushings, solid rear caliper guides, afe intake scoops
and finally broke down and bought the do88 dct cooler. 2x the cost of the csf one but also substantially bigger. and carbon fibers yo.
bimmerworld -- 92mm studs, solid rear subframe bushings, solid rear caliper guides, afe intake scoops
and finally broke down and bought the do88 dct cooler. 2x the cost of the csf one but also substantially bigger. and carbon fibers yo.
Reddevils7 wroteNo, just the Stage 1 speaker kit (mids + tweeters). I started with their amp and don't desire more bass, so hopefully my audio work ends with these.Are those the subwoofers?
wyatth wroteYou have the bavsound amp? Seems like they discontinued it on their website. I was looking at the bimmer tech one too. I have the regular hifi system. It lacks clarity for sure. How much of a difference did you notice from the amp alone? For $1k, it should be night and day imoNo, just the Stage 1 speaker kit (mids + tweeters). I started with their amp and don't desire more bass, so hopefully my audio work ends with these.
powerbait wroteWhen my throttle actuator went, I had some bizarre codes, even replaced my battery before narrowing it down to an actuator. Mine is a DCT and even threw a code for the shifter and wouldn't let me out of park, was very frustrating, but not a single issue since replacing with Mpower TAs.
spammysammich wroteHow old is the battery and was it properly coded and registered? 12.3 is close to being too low. Let it sit over night or for a couple days and measure it again. Go over your grounds and make sure they are secure. Have all the recalls been done including the fuse box related one?
jvictormp wrotethanks guys. It did end up being a throttle actuator. Someone locally to me was selling a pair of them on FB marketplace for $100 with one he thought to be needing repair. So I snagged those up with them being so cheap and car is running great again. And I have an extra set of cores ready for rebuild nowI'd bet on the quote below. TAs don't behave equally in all cases of problems.
Have you ever replaced them?
The battery-related codes might have to do with the negative disconnection for 15 minutes you made.
Met up with a local owner and his son today for a playdate with mine. He just picked up his car, a 2011 IB E90 with extended Palladium, loaded, some Dinan goodies, with 17K miles ... thing was gorgeous!
Reddevils7 wroteYeah, it's NLA but they have some new old stock around I think. Shoot them an email. I got it for quite a bit less than original MSRP and have been happy with it for a few months now. The Bimmertech amp is 99% the same, all based on the same Audiotech Fischer DSP amp, difference is just in their tune for it.You have the bavsound amp? Seems like they discontinued it on their website. I was looking at the bimmer tech one too. I have the regular hifi system. It lacks clarity for sure. How much of a difference did you notice from the amp alone? For $1k, it should be night and day imo
wyatth wrotewas that car on sale locally at a dealer? I feel like I saw it in an IG ad lol, beautiful car!Met up with a local owner and his son today for a playdate with mine. He just picked up his car, a 2011 IB E90 with extended Palladium, loaded, some Dinan goodies, with 17K miles ... thing was gorgeous!
wyatth wroteBoth E90 M3's Look stunning but my heart is with the IB one LOL.Met up with a local owner and his son today for a playdate with mine. He just picked up his car, a 2011 IB E90 with extended Palladium, loaded, some Dinan goodies, with 17K miles ... thing was gorgeous!
Yeah, it's NLA but they have some new old stock around I think. Shoot them an email. I got it for quite a bit less than original MSRP and have been happy with it for a few months now. The Bimmertech amp is 99% the same, all based on the same Audiotech Fischer DSP amp, difference is just in their tune for it.
tbuck wroteI would say so. I could tell almost immediately something wasn't right as I was backing it out. At 130k+ miles I have to think I was on borrowed time, so I don't know how angry to get about it. But boy, looking at that photo every single thread is obliterated. Time sert on order.Oh no.... Did the mechanic over torque it??
