DIY: Changing M-DCT Fluid

Great post! Doing this soon and exactly what I was looking for.

Is there a time limit on the DCT fluid and the filters? I ordered my new and it only has 7k miles now.

Bump for the helpful DIY!

Did you guys re-use the 14 Torx bolts when installing the pan or get new ones?

Genes1s wrote

Did you guys re-use the 14 Torx bolts when installing the pan or get new ones?

I reused mine

Thanks for the DIY!

Jw what milage you have all done it at.

Hitting 83k no track days .... Just DD ...

Plan doing it closer 90k mark if not 100k

Mimmer wrote

Jw what milage you have all done it at.

Hitting 83k no track days .... Just DD ...

Plan doing it closer 90k mark if not 100k

I think me was around 88k when I got the Slon pan. You should be able to see smoother shifts with fresh fluid, that's a great benefit for a daily driven car. I would do it sooner than later.

Engine oil change, DCT fluid, diff fluid, and spark plugs replacement is the ultimate tune up for a smooth daily.

Genes1s wrote

Did you guys re-use the 14 Torx bolts when installing the pan or get new ones?

I did new.

I had a shop do this service (should have DIYd it) and I'm not sure it was done correctly because my transmission now shifts like dog $#!7. What's the easiest way to reset the adaptations? What's the best way of verifying the fluid level (open the fill plug and see if any fluid will come out?

Andryuha wrote

I had a shop do this service (should have DIYd it) and I'm not sure it was done correctly because my transmission now shifts like dog $#!7. What's the easiest way to reset the adaptations? What's the best way of verifying the fluid level (open the fill plug and see if any fluid will come out?

Can you describe the issue with shifting you were or are experiencing?

I did this service, including the pan and filter, and now every time after starting from a complete stop, and only in 1st gear, (doesn't happen starting in 2nd gear) the car jerks forward as if I drove over a speed bump at 15 mph..
Then continues on driving fine, other than the fact it is also shifting hard... -like old crusty dog s%%t- hard

You can reset the adaptations by putting key in ignition, and turning on ignition without starting the engine.
With car powered on( gas Guage is up) hold down the gas pedal for 60 or so seconds, and with gas pedal still depressed, power off ignition and remove key.

Let car sit for 2-3 minutes then start engine

I know those directions definitely reset engine adaptations, not sure about transmission adaptations but worth a try

Did this recently using the oil balancing procedure in ISTA. Just want to add that ISTA has a few menus that will read out the transmission temp, but the first couple pages' readings aren't updated live and will leave you there thinking the temp isn't going up even though you've got the engine on.

The first live updating temp reading will be when you get to the later menu that says there's max transmission cooling enabled. Once you've done the initial fill, just know to continue through the menus till you get to that page.

jw do you need to replace this? my shop was rec to doing it..
BMW Dual Clutch Transmission Oil Pump Filter - Getrag 28107850148

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-dual-clutch-trans-suction-filter-getrag-28107850148

Mimmer wrote

jw do you need to replace this? my shop was rec to doing it..
BMW Dual Clutch Transmission Oil Pump Filter - Getrag 28107850148

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-dual-clutch-trans-suction-filter-getrag-28107850148

Yes, replace this. The filter is old and replacing it would improve the filtration.

Tip: never re-use the filter cap, the o-ring will eventually harden up and go flat. The pressure filter was leaking bad enough that I would drop about three tablespoons of fluid at startup and God only knows how much I dribbled all over creation before I parked it in October.

spammysammich wrote

Tip: never re-use the filter cap, the o-ring will eventually harden up and go flat. The pressure filter was leaking bad enough that I would drop about three tablespoons of fluid at startup and God only knows how much I dribbled all over creation before I parked it in October.

That is one flat o ring!

Can someone please explain why people are changing the filters? Also, people are mentioning that there really is no distinguishable differences in shifting from before vs. after. My other question is related to the fluids color. Does the fluid color change really affect the quality of the fluid? The fact that someone swapped black fluids out after 2k miles of just putting in fresh pink colored fluids indicates that it’s normal for it to change color. On engine oil it turns brown because that means it’s doing it’s job and it doesn’t necessarily mean that the oil needs to be changed because it’s the filter which is the main part that needs to be changed. It just seems like over kill especially when all these Blackstone results are coming back virtually the same. I understand gaskets being changed with fresh fluid due to leaks, but why not just leave everything else and save some money? Someone mentioned here that there is a fine line between preventive maintenance and wasting money. It seems like people are having problems by even changing these parts out like weird shifting as someone has mentioned here and another thread. I’m at 123k miles and the car shifts fine. I feel like I’ll just end up with the same Blackstone results like everybody else lol

I just did the 3rd DCT service. I used the method here for the previous 2. Always had to add more fluid. I started to get a judder when going into reverse.

For this one, I cold fillled then used an Autel MX808 to do the oil balance and THEN I hot filled. I used every bit of 7 liters of fluid. Then I cleared the adaptive values. The car shifts much smoother and no judder when going into reverse.

The bad news, the head on the fill plug came off. The fill plug is soft aluminum which prevents over-torqueing. Being this is the 4th time this plug has come out...should have been prepared.

The drain plug is M18x1.5...I was able to get a volvo oil drain plug which is working. Waiting for the new plug to come in so I can replace it. Whoops.

The fluid came out relatively clean with 30k on it. So I'll probably wait until the pan leaks to do another service.

rated_m3 wrote

Can someone please explain why people are changing the filters? Also, people are mentioning that there really is no distinguishable differences in shifting from before vs. after. My other question is related to the fluids color. Does the fluid color change really affect the quality of the fluid? The fact that someone swapped black fluids out after 2k miles of just putting in fresh pink colored fluids indicates that it’s normal for it to change color. On engine oil it turns brown because that means it’s doing it’s job and it doesn’t necessarily mean that the oil needs to be changed because it’s the filter which is the main part that needs to be changed. It just seems like over kill especially when all these Blackstone results are coming back virtually the same. I understand gaskets being changed with fresh fluid due to leaks, but why not just leave everything else and save some money? Someone mentioned here that there is a fine line between preventive maintenance and wasting money. It seems like people are having problems by even changing these parts out like weird shifting as someone has mentioned here and another thread. I’m at 123k miles and the car shifts fine. I feel like I’ll just end up with the same Blackstone results like everybody else lol

I've done 3 services at 50k, 75k and 105k. The oil was pretty nasty and thick at 50k, the oil pan was leaking so I was replacing the pan anyways. The oil came out pretty clean at 75k and 105k.

I'm inclined to say do at least one service and then plan to do the next when you have a leak. You will have a leak at some point from either the mechatronics cover or oil pan. I tightened all of the bolts on my mechantroics cover once but it is leaking. I need to do rod bearings and engine mounts soon. So I'll tip the engine/trans back so I can replace the cover gasket. I might lose some oil but I'll just top it off.

The oil pan is probably going to be leaking by the time it hits 130k to 140k...so it will be time for a service.

bigjae1976 wrote

I've done 3 services at 50k, 75k and 105k. The oil was pretty nasty and thick at 50k, the oil pan was leaking so I was replacing the pan anyways. The oil came out pretty clean at 75k and 105k.

I'm inclined to say do at least one service and then plan to do the next when you have a leak. You will have a leak at some point from either the mechatronics cover or oil pan. I tightened all of the bolts on my mechantroics cover once but it is leaking. I need to do rod bearings and engine mounts soon. So I'll tip the engine/trans back so I can replace the cover gasket. I might lose some oil but I'll just top it off.

The oil pan is probably going to be leaking by the time it hits 130k to 140k...so it will be time for a service.

IS there no way or replacement parts that stop the leaking Like viton gaskets maybe and better made side cover and pan?

0-60Motorsports wrote

IS there no way or replacement parts that stop the leaking Like viton gaskets maybe and better made side cover and pan?

No idea.

0-60Motorsports wrote

IS there no way or replacement parts that stop the leaking Like viton gaskets maybe and better made side cover and pan?

There used to be a company that made a viton gasket set for like 700 usd. Not sure if they are still available. I ended up just installing a Fall Line lower pan with a viton oring style gasket. The side cover is metal and should hold up better than the plastic pan but the rubber gasket is still a failure point. As is the top mechatronics cabling seal.