DIY Carplay/Android Auto Carsara Install and Setup Tips

Hi guys. I think I'm owner #3 of the 12volt unit.

Hopefully I have time this weekend to install it.

Great work so far, the mic situation is the only thing lacking it seems with this unit. But I'd take audio quality over that any day. Can't wait to try it out.

2009550iMSport wrote

drwankel wrote

That's my question as well. Definitely want to use the OEM mic and am not sure where we can get the splitter cable independently. They really ought to consider including it.

So, that splitter cable is impossible to find. I scoured AliExpress and eBay for hours trying to find one. No luck.

I was able to convince my carsara vendor to sell me an extra one, though. Just got it today. I'm planning on selling the carsara box, so I needed all the parts. I can reach out to my carsara vendor and see if he will let me buy a few more if you guys want me to? Let me know. They're $30 a piece.

https://i.ibb.co/cXgkgrR/4-DDF763-F-AD8-E-43-B0-B608-0-CB6-B96417-BA.jpg

Count me in to purchase a splitter. Ordered my unit yesterday and delivery is expected in October.

2009550iMSport wrote

So, that splitter cable is impossible to find. I scoured AliExpress and eBay for hours trying to find one. No luck.

I was able to convince my carsara vendor to sell me an extra one, though. Just got it today. I’m planning on selling the carsara box, so I needed all the parts. I can reach out to my carsara vendor and see if he will let me buy a few more if you guys want me to? Let me know. They’re $30 a piece.

When you end up selling that Carsara box I'd be interested in purchasing it.

Thanks,

2009550iMSport wrote

I was perusing through some German BMW forums and discovered my issue with the individual audio system isn’t that uncommon. Many folks over in Deutschland suggested adding an amp to power the individual audio subs. I think I may give that a try, as I have an extra one lying around.

Also, I just ordered this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mr12volt-M-O-S-T-Android-Auto-CarPlay-interface-BMW-CIC-MID-E90-E92-X5-X6-Z4-/255070820273?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

It’s a new CarPlay box with built-in MOST connection. Looks promising.

Nice job with the Mr12Volt - Looks great.
I installed the updated Carsara - I'm happy with the features, even through the AUX.
I got a reverse camera for my setup, but it points too low to the ground!
I noticed yours, can you post me the link?
Cheers

2009550iMSport wrote

So, that splitter cable is impossible to find. I scoured AliExpress and eBay for hours trying to find one. No luck.

I was able to convince my carsara vendor to sell me an extra one, though. Just got it today. I’m planning on selling the carsara box, so I needed all the parts. I can reach out to my carsara vendor and see if he will let me buy a few more if you guys want me to? Let me know. They’re $30 a piece.

Definitely interested in getting another cable. Will shoot you a PM.

One thing I would love better pictures of with the MR12volt unit is where folks are physically mounting it. The install video completely skips that part.

2009550iMSport wrote

I forgot to mention, do not change the DIP switches. Leave them ALL off. The instructions are wrong. The only DIP switch you might need to change is the one for E/F series, depending on if any of you has an F-chassis car. Upon digging through the developer menu, I learned this box automatically senses your display’s resolution and aspect ratio and will auto-adjust.

Tigamilla wrote

This alone fixed it!! THANK YOU!
.

Can you clarify which way is off? All down or all up? I tried both I think.

Cic controller works but I am not getting the CD changer to show up even after removing the connectors like mentioned before.

I haven't coded the CD changer yet. If I can't get it to work I guess I'll do that.

But holding down the menu doesn't take me to the 12volt UI. I just see the CIC UI. When I remove the LDVS cables the screen does go blank so that should be connected fine.

Got it working.

As soon as I coded CDMM_CHANGER_3 to mp3_cdc everything connected and started to work.

So I think that is a big mistake from 12Volt. They probably tested on a CD changer car and assumed it works the same on all cars.

tdott wrote

Got it working.

As soon as I coded CDMM_CHANGER_3 to mp3_cdc everything connected and started to work.

So I think that is a big mistake from 12Volt. They probably tested on a CD changer car and assumed it works the same on all cars.

Has anyone received any firmware updates from the seller?

tdott wrote

Got it working.

As soon as I coded CDMM_CHANGER_3 to mp3_cdc everything connected and started to work.

So I think that is a big mistake from 12Volt. They probably tested on a CD changer car and assumed it works the same on all cars.

Exactly my experience, changing the dip switches to all off AND coding to activate the CD changer activated it. I was actually given advice to uncode the mp3_cdc line while I was troubleshooting!

A few things I wish they would fix having used it for a day or two and then it's perfect would be:

- to allow users to toggle between the CIC interface and the 12 Volt interface. At the moment, you get a 20 second window unless you switch to a different source, which is ultra aggressive

- for some reason while using Android Auto, if you go into reverse it doesn't swith to the reversing screen automatically. So have to come out of it into the stock system and then be faced with the 20 second timeout before it goes back to the Android Auto interface. Not deal breakers and I'm sure a software update could fix this.

muniz_ri wrote

Has anyone received any firmware updates from the seller?

Not yet, but I was told I would be sent a new beta version soon. I've also made some minor life quality improvement suggestions to them.

Created a separate thread for the Mr12Volt unit: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=27949003#post27949003

Let's continue that discussion over there.

Thanks all!

danielm4653 wrote

When you end up selling that Carsara box I'd be interested in purchasing it.

Thanks,

You got it! Send me an email

rlitt636@gmail.com

Iyzmi wrote

I can share some notes for the 6MT install.

I installed this camera and am happy with the quality, price, and ease of install (connector size):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GE7NQH6/
I suspect there is not much, if any, difference between something like this an an "HD" camera given the CIC screen resolution, but have not compared cameras directly to say for sure.

Hi purchased one of the cameras. Everything worked well - easy to route through car due to small connector.
However, when installed, reverse selected, I noticed the camera points too close to the ground. All the lines on the screen finish about 1 - 2 metres behind the car. If I put a block of wood about 3 inches high under the open trunk, I feel this is about the correct angle position for the camera lens.
Did you have any issues like this?

blk33 wrote

Iyzmi wrote

I can share some notes for the 6MT install.

I installed this camera and am happy with the quality, price, and ease of install (connector size):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GE7NQH6/
I suspect there is not much, if any, difference between something like this an an "HD" camera given the CIC screen resolution, but have not compared cameras directly to say for sure.

Hi purchased one of the cameras. Everything worked well - easy to route through car due to small connector.
However, when installed, reverse selected, I noticed the camera points too close to the ground. All the lines on the screen finish about 1 - 2 metres behind the car. If I put a block of wood about 3 inches high under the open trunk, I feel this is about the correct angle position for the camera lens.
Did you have any issues like this?

Yes, that's the drawback to these trunk latch cameras. They all point too far down and the lines are not accurate. I actually disabled the lines because I'd rather not see them at all if they're wrong.

Iyzmi wrote

blk33 wrote

Iyzmi wrote

I can share some notes for the 6MT install.

I installed this camera and am happy with the quality, price, and ease of install (connector size):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GE7NQH6/
I suspect there is not much, if any, difference between something like this an an "HD" camera given the CIC screen resolution, but have not compared cameras directly to say for sure.

Hi purchased one of the cameras. Everything worked well - easy to route through car due to small connector.
However, when installed, reverse selected, I noticed the camera points too close to the ground. All the lines on the screen finish about 1 - 2 metres behind the car. If I put a block of wood about 3 inches high under the open trunk, I feel this is about the correct angle position for the camera lens.
Did you have any issues like this?

Yes, that's the drawback to these trunk latch cameras. They all point too far down and the lines are not accurate. I actually disabled the lines because I'd rather not see them at all if they're wrong.

I wouldn't say that all of these have an issue.

Also from what I've seen it's very hard to get them installed fully seated which sometimes means it will point down more because it's not installed correctly.

I haven't measured the lines on my wide angle but they are pretty close to accurate. I'm not using them as a deciding factor on curbing wheels just whether or not I'm about to hit another car.

Cyberdemon wrote

Iyzmi wrote

blk33 wrote

Iyzmi wrote

I can share some notes for the 6MT install.

I installed this camera and am happy with the quality, price, and ease of install (connector size):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GE7NQH6/
I suspect there is not much, if any, difference between something like this an an "HD" camera given the CIC screen resolution, but have not compared cameras directly to say for sure.

Hi purchased one of the cameras. Everything worked well - easy to route through car due to small connector.
However, when installed, reverse selected, I noticed the camera points too close to the ground. All the lines on the screen finish about 1 - 2 metres behind the car. If I put a block of wood about 3 inches high under the open trunk, I feel this is about the correct angle position for the camera lens.
Did you have any issues like this?

Yes, that's the drawback to these trunk latch cameras. They all point too far down and the lines are not accurate. I actually disabled the lines because I'd rather not see them at all if they're wrong.

I wouldn't say that all of these have an issue.

Also from what I've seen it's very hard to get them installed fully seated which sometimes means it will point down more because it's not installed correctly.

I haven't measured the lines on my wide angle but they are pretty close to accurate. I'm not using them as a deciding factor on curbing wheels just whether or not I'm about to hit another car.

Mine looks basically the same but with a bit less fisheye distortion. Snapped in very easily as well. It is pointed too low in my opinion and they all have the issue because they all use the same trunk latch mold. Still better than nothing and worth $30 though.

Cyberdemon wrote

I wouldn't say that all of these have an issue.

Also from what I've seen it's very hard to get them installed fully seated which sometimes means it will point down more because it's not installed correctly.

I haven't measured the lines on my wide angle but they are pretty close to accurate. I'm not using them as a deciding factor on curbing wheels just whether or not I'm about to hit another car.

Thanks for your replys.
Yours looks a little better than mine originally did. I cut mine up and reduced the angle. Unfortunately it lifted slightly and now is too close to the top, which cuts the top of the screen off.
I don't know how they are IP68/67 rated! The CCD circuit board is held in position on the lens with a dob of silicon, and in turn held in the housing with a dob of silicon.
I think I will try another one (maybe a different brand) and see if I can improve it.

Buy the way I fitted an INDUKTIV Wireless Charger. Very, very pleased!

Cyberdemon wrote

Code it before installation. The CarPlay box interferes with getting the connection to the CIC. It's written up in my installation tips.


[mrvedit](contact:204748)
It is best to complete the programming before starting; or, if you already have the new harness installed, before removing the jumper D.

Cyberdemon mrvedit

Hello to both Cyberdemon/mrvedit. Quick question, if the unit is already installed and everything works through the aux in the armrest; is it too late to code? Can I uninstall the unit and do the coding?

I finally found someone to code for me but with the unit already installed. He confirmed the parameters are coded, but the aux in the armrest still works and the aux behind the CIC unit doesn't work.

Thank you.

Cyeh93 wrote

Cyberdemon mrvedit

Hello to both Cyberdemon/mrvedit. Quick question, if the unit is already installed and everything works through the aux in the armrest; is it too late to code? Can I uninstall the unit and do the coding?

I finally found someone to code for me but with the unit already installed. He confirmed the parameters are coded, but the aux in the armrest still works and the aux behind the CIC unit doesn't work.

Thank you.

The Quadlock connector needs to be disconnected in order to code the CIC. So if the unit was still connected then the settings didn't take.

You can soft-uninstall the unit if the person can code it where you are. Remove the CIC, uninstall the quadlock connector and put back the original wire configuration, you don't need to remove the Carsara box completely to do this and you can leave the CIC dangling out while you confirm that the coding went through. Once you see "AUX Front" on the CIC, reinstall the Carsara box.

Cyberdemon wrote

The Quadlock connector needs to be disconnected in order to code the CIC. So if the unit was still connected then the settings didn't take.

You can soft-uninstall the unit if the person can code it where you are. Remove the CIC, uninstall the quadlock connector and put back the original wire configuration, you don't need to remove the Carsara box completely to do this and you can leave the CIC dangling out while you confirm that the coding went through. Once you see "AUX Front" on the CIC, reinstall the Carsara box.

Thank you for your reply. Just to make sure I am clear since I have to schedule the re-coding. I have the newer unit without the quadlock connector. I am using the method that is described by SocalM3 on page 26, by adding my own aux.

The picture shows the connectors that I have; besides the USB Port on the other end. Since I don't have the quadlock as you describe, should I just put everything back to stock? Should we undo the coding that we did before putting back to stock?



Link to image: https://photos.app.goo.gl/PZk6P1LUC2dCq3mx8


Thanks.

Also - Does anyone know the original value for these? I know that the AUX_HU was originally nicht_aktiv, but not sure about the other two. My coder said that one of them was already nicht_aktiv but wasn't sure which; so if I was to put it back to stock, is the Single or Dobule_OB that was aktiv?

CDMM_AUX_HU
aktiv

CDMM_USB_AUDIO_SINGLE
nicht_aktiv

CDMM_USB_AUDIO_DOUBLE_0B
nicht_aktiv