DIY: S65 Throttle Actuator

Thanks OP for the DIY. Replaced my bank 1 TA over the last couple of days after randomly getting 2B21 and 2B57 codes a couple of weeks ago. Car was running fine, but it has 66.7K miles on it and the bank 2 TA was replaced by my local dealer 3 years ago at 56K miles under the 7/70 Calif emissions warranty, so I figured it was about time for the other one. I went with a rebuilt unit from MPower Motorsports.

I went ahead and replaced the fuel breather valve while I was in there as preventative maintenance. I would have finished the work on Sunday, but I cracked off part of the rear fuel breather valve tube inside the fuel breather pipe and, though I was able to remove it, I damaged the pipe's quick release collar (which was super brittle anyway) so decided to get a new pipe yesterday. After I got the fuel breather valve sorted, I cleaned the throttle bodies a bit with some carb cleaner, sprayed some silicone dry lube on the operating shaft (actuator rod) pivot points, and got everything buttoned back up. Started right up with no codes, and she's running like a champ!

Overall not a difficult job, just a bit tedious with the throttle body clamps and the brittle connectors making my fingertips sore. The extensions, swivel socket and 6mm socket definitely helped with the clamps.

Hopefully good now for another 60-70k.

EDIT: Here's the condition of my TA after 66.7k miles. Gears obviously have a bit of wear as you can see from the shavings, but they weren't completely gone yet. Wonder how long I really had until limp mode.

I did my TA's and spark plugs, started car back up and it idled fine. Took it down the block and hit limp mode, misfire. CYL 1-4, popped the coil packs off to make sure they have good contact, dropped the one in the back to the bottom tray and called it a day for now. Have anyone experienced something like this?

tigermack wrote

I did my TA's and spark plugs, started car back up and it idled fine. Took it down the block and hit limp mode, misfire. CYL 1-4, popped the coil packs off to make sure they have good contact, dropped the one in the back to the bottom tray and called it a day for now. Have anyone experienced something like this?

Yea, I forgot to plug one connector and had to go back in and reconnect. I'd double check your work, but also have the code read if possible

W/// wrote

Yea, I forgot to plug one connector and had to go back in and reconnect. I'd double check your work, but also have the code read if possible

The codes were P161F, P300, P301, P302, P303, iirc, might be a P304 as well. I guess taking the plenum off and make sure I have everything plugged back in properly. I did remove the coilpacks to ensure they are on all the way until the last one fell down to the tray.

tigermack wrote

The codes were P161F, P300, P301, P302, P303, iirc, might be a P304 as well. I guess taking the plenum off and make sure I have everything plugged back in properly. I did remove the coilpacks to ensure they are on all the way until the last one fell down to the tray.

Definitely make sure all the connectors are back in place snugly. The BMW tech who did my bank 2 TA left the vanos connector off (in fairness, it's low down in the engine near the pulleys and not that hard to miss) and I got a couple of codes and it wouldn't rev. That said, P161F is itself a TA fault. Are the TA's both new?

I got it taken care of. Simple mistake.

tigermack wrote

I got it taken care of. Simple mistake.

Please reply which connector. Might help some people in the future to know this matched with your codes.
Thanks.

Check the IAT sensor and connector make sure the contacts are clean and not damaged or pulled. The sensor can actually be removed from the plenum and inspected. It twists in. Remove the connector first. I would double check each and every connector on that harness there are a few that are down low that can be missed but usually have a different code thrown.

The IAT sensor is passenger side. It is not the hose on the bottom clip, but make sure that is hooked up and didn’t slip off also. Good luck!

Silverstoneorspacegray wrote

Update - I'm a dummy. Had the IAT sensor plugged into the plug near the oil filter

Everythings is working perfectly.

got my replacement actuators from Abdul at M Power Motorsports and couldn't be happier with the experience. He responded to my email on Labor Day, had them sent out Wednesday morning and they arrived by Friday.

Super happy with the experience and thanks again to OP. THis was super helpful and saved me almost $1700.

I was quote $2250 plus tax for this job and ended up spending $720.

Was about to ask if you mixed up the connectors because I almost did the same lol

Just replaced mine yesterday, haven't cleared the check engine light yet. But the dsc, dbc, tpm, reduce power messages are all gone now, except "increased emissions"message is still there.

Broke two connector clips, and i just zip-tied them. Overall, is pretty easy. One thing i noticed though, when you are tightening the ITB clamps, make sure you apply pressure on the plenum while tightening.

I didnt apply pressure when tightening at first, while i was tightening the clamps, the plenum slowly popped off the seat.

Hi, Im from europe, there arent companies for TA rebuild. So what you recomend to me when TA die?

A new VDO (instead more expensive OEM which is also from VDO)?

Or gear replacement? but which set you recomend? (I saw there the brass ones, but nobody recomend them due fail of shaft inside the gear)

Lucas CR wrote

Hi, Im from europe, there arent companies for TA rebuild. So what you recomend to me when TA die?

A new VDO (instead more expensive OEM which is also from VDO)?

Or gear replacement? but which set you recomend? (I saw there the brass ones, but nobody recomend them due fail of shaft inside the gear)

https://www.rebuild.org.uk/

thanks, well as written:

Electronic Components failure is most common, Its important that buyers are aware that when purchasing the gear kits, its strongly recommended that a full rebuild by us is carried out as kits do not fix units that has a fault.

if I understand that correctly, they dont recomend to order only gear replace kit because there is allways also some Electronic Components failure. Threfore only the kit for 135L (175usd) will not solve the trouble and lot of people there order full refurbishment for 490L (637usd).

But the price for 2 whole new VDO is arround 1250 usd, so double costs. Is still better to invest half price 637usd for a refurbishment?

Lucas CR wrote

thanks, well as written:

Electronic Components failure is most common, Its important that buyers are aware that when purchasing the gear kits, its strongly recommended that a full rebuild by us is carried out as kits do not fix units that has a fault.

if I understand that correctly, they dont recomend to order only gear replace kit because there is allways also some Electronic Components failure. Threfore only the kit for 135L (175usd) will not solve the trouble and lot of people there order full refurbishment for 490L (637usd).

But the price for 2 whole new VDO is arround 1250 usd, so double costs. Is still better to invest half price 637usd for a refurbishment?

The rebuilt units have a warranty. In North America FCP Euro will warranty the new units. If there is a supplier in Europe that will warranty the new units then the cost differential is the main factor to consider. If you put in new units without a warranty then eventually they will need to be replaced again. If you still own the car then you'll have to pay for another set.

Lucas CR wrote

thanks, well as written:

Electronic Components failure is most common, Its important that buyers are aware that when purchasing the gear kits, its strongly recommended that a full rebuild by us is carried out as kits do not fix units that has a fault.

if I understand that correctly, they dont recomend to order only gear replace kit because there is allways also some Electronic Components failure. Threfore only the kit for 135L (175usd) will not solve the trouble and lot of people there order full refurbishment for 490L (637usd).

But the price for 2 whole new VDO is arround 1250 usd, so double costs. Is still better to invest half price 637usd for a refurbishment?

Yes, much better.

What plug harness is attached right under the cable tray? Tried disconnecting it and it's a bit brittle and bits of plastic just snapped off without much force. Had to rig up some zip ties to secure it so it wouldn't just be floating. Would like to know what it is so I can find a replacement plug.

jsport wrote

What plug harness is attached right under the cable tray? Tried disconnecting it and it's a bit brittle and bits of plastic just snapped off without much force. Had to rig up some zip ties to secure it so it wouldn't just be floating. Would like to know what it is so I can find a replacement plug.

Mine basically crumbled when I did the replacement 3 or 4 years ago. It’s been held with a zip tie ever since. I did replace the zip tie with a new one this year when I went back in to do valve covers.
You may find what you’re looking for here. Most likely it’s part of the main wiring harness for the engine.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=WD93-USA-08-2009-E92-BMW-M3&mg=12

TX wrote

Mine basically crumbled when I did the replacement 3 or 4 years ago. It’s been held with a zip tie ever since. I did replace the zip tie with a new one this year when I went back in to do valve covers.
You may find what you’re looking for here. Most likely it’s part of the main wiring harness for the engine.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=WD93-USA-08-2009-E92-BMW-M3&mg=12

Thanks. Yeah, mine didn't crumble but it was more fragile than expected. Was hoping to find just the connector but doubt it's sold individually. Not feeling like swapping out the whole harness. I did 2 zip ties. One around the plug so I could attach another to be inline with the cable. Tried only 1 at first but didn't like how it twisted.

I think two of mine near the same area broke, but yah zip tie them are fine. You won't see them underneath the plenum.

MisterClutch888 wrote

I think two of mine near the same area broke, but yah zip tie them are fine. You won't see them underneath the plenum.

Was just worried it might move and start rubbing against something and get worse over time. But did notice all the videos on YouTube where I could make out the cable, showed that same cable with broken plastic bits and they just left it floating free. Even ones done at a shop. One of the side retention pins broke off on mine too so just hoping the one left will hold so it won't disconnect. Wrapped it with fusing electric hoping it helps.

Getting increased emission after a new ta..... no limp just increased emission... what could it be...? Connector could be loose? Or do I need to go drive so car finds there is a new ta? Car is uninsured atm and kept in the garaged.

Clear all codes and go for a drive.