Track Prep - Things to Do / Buy

There is a range. Some events staff a mechanic for track days (our Club does this) and others are on your own, but the common denominator is that there are ALWAYS people willing to help and lend a hand, a tool and some advice. It's a great culture. Most tracks also have rules to follow - worth checking before you go.

One more suggestion: Read some of this thread, so you have some sympathy what our instructors sometimes have to go through with first-time students.

Don't be somebody's worst day story.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1061825-Instructor-stories

Do NOT do anything to your car except MAYBE fluids.

From what I've observed from the passenger side, this "sport" isn't for everyone. There are about 60-75% of the novice students who NEVER come back after their first or second event. There's a real good chance you may be one of them, despite the enthusiasm.

If you go to your first event and had a blast and know for sure you want to blow chunks and chunks of cash on it, then come back and ask away. Otherwise you're going to be posting on the for sale forum soon: set of [insert name of performance pads here], used once. Set of [rims and tires], used once. Will part for food.

Another idea (if you haven't already done this) is to get a map of the track and find YouTube/other video from guys who have driven on the track where you're headed. It's a cheap way to learn a little before you go.

OP - Here are a few publications from our last event that might be helpful on a variety of topics.

4M wrote

Another idea (if you haven't already done this) is to get a map of the track and find YouTube/other video from guys who have driven on the track where you're headed. It's a cheap way to learn a little before you go.

On that front, again, from the perspective of a passenger seat guy, I can not recommend this for a FIRST TIME EVER guy. If you have had a few events under your belt and want a refresher on a track you've never been to, it makes sense. If you've never driven on track and don't understand the dynamics of a vehicle at speed, I'd rather that, as someone risking his/her life trying to teach you this stuff, that you arrive with an open mind and no preconceived notions.

Again, based purely on my experience riding shotgun on track, the novices that I had to work the hardest on are those who: 1) think they know what they're doing already and 2) came "prepared."

Which brings up this weekend's event at Laguna Seca...One of my favorite tracks to drive at, one of my LEAST favorite track to teach at. I can't tell you how often I hear "don't worry, I've driven this track countless times on Gran Turismo." Had to remind a few that there are no reset button in real life...And once they had that "oh shit this isn't like GTx" moment, then all of a sudden they drive like the track is 20' narrower and no amount of coaxing will get them out of their damn shell.

Great advice, going to read through these manuals. Guys, all of this is very much appreciated- this m3post community is wonderful.

WarrantyTracker wrote

One more suggestion: Read some of this thread, so you have some sympathy what our instructors sometimes have to go through with first-time students.

Don't be somebody's worst day story.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1061825-Instructor-stories

That was super entertaining. Thanks for sharing!

+1 and great lessons on how not to be.
Hat's off to all who instruct.

MilkAndRelish wrote

Wow thank you for this thorough reply, SYT. As far as camber, how is this adjusted? Do I have to put in camber plates or is there another way? What is a good amount of camber?

Thanks for the brake/wheel suggestions. So 17'' Apex wheels will clear the M3 brakes... will most 17'' wheels clear our brakes?

Thank you!

You're welcome.

You can start by adding the negative camber your car allows, then later on using something like the Ground Control Street camber plates.
For the free starter version, look here:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=521177
The free version will avoid you destroying your tires and can be left on 'forever' as it does not eat away your tires on the street.

Most 17" wheels don't clear, but if you're going to the track you will want a proper set of track wheels and the Apex Arc8s are great.

MilkAndRelish wrote

Great, thank you 4M. Good all on finding out total track time... I didn't think of this, but DUH.

As for changing pads or fluid at the track- at organized track events are there ever lifts and/or people willing to help change equipment?

Also, great that you eased into this with Autocross, I'm trying to get a co-worker of mine to take me to an Auto-X event before I hit the track, and I will absolutely let you guys know how it goes.

I would definitely not change fluid at the track, you will have enough on your mind already. Put Motul 600 in there as it has zero detriments to street use.
Changing pads can take a long time when you haven't done it before. I would do this the weekend prior to tracking.
Right now I'm driving my E46 M with PFC08s on the street as I basically use it for track days and keep the E92 for the street.

If you are interested, I am selling complete set of OEM brake upgrade for track use.
The sale includes One day used, practically brand new as the track wasn't brake demanding that much, PFC-01 Front pads (Race), Lightly used Endless MX-72 rear pads (Very Aggresive Street), Brand New Stoptech SS Line, and Brand new Project mu Gfour 335 Brake Fluid 1L (Dry 635F - one of the best in the market). I've ran these setup (SS line from Goodlidge), and have had great experience on track. (I've ordered BBK as both my front and rear rotors got shot). PM me if you are interested or have any question regarding the pads. I've gone through 4 sets of pads within 8 months. I might be sourceful.

Please find the detailed information on the actual thread.
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=989502

I was in the same shoes as you in last August when i bought my car. Here's my thought. Based on my track experience with E92 M3, there are two areas that would improve your experience the most, which are tires and brakes.

First mod would be the brakes. It is very easy to boil your OEM brake fluids and kill your brake pads in summer time (Mine lasted three track days total for brand new pads +fluid). I would suggesting using top of the line brake fluid (torque 700 would be the best on market, but it is tough to get it. PMU G4 335 is a good alternative which has very high boiling point (Motul 660 is still has lower boiling point that G4 335). I strongly put emphasis on brake fluid as you are going to track with 3750 lbs car (with driver) when the weather is hot (BW or WS gets hot as high as 120F during summer), and it is very easy to boil your brake fluid in socal. Pads are recommended as OEM really wears out quick on track use. Just switch pads before track days. and SS line is recommended for linear brake pedal feeling.

The second mod will be wheels & tires. If you have PSS on your OEM wheels, i would keep them for street use. PSS is such a nice tire for canyon run and daily drive, but it won't perform as good as RS3 or AD08 on track. In addition, PSS is $$$. You do not want to waste them on track. If you can afford new track wheels, get afforable wheels for track like APEX rims and mount RS-3 for just track use. If you want to kill understeer, go for 275 square setup which will give you benefit of no understeer and really nice turn in. I've been using RS3 for a while, and i've been pleased with it (most E92 M3 runs with RS3 or AD08 on track, if you want to stick with street tires).

If you are have limited budget, go for brakes for your safety. Safer is always better than faster...especially on track.