question again on the torque. In the TIS on page one, it called for the BMW tool 121172 for tightening down the spark plugs. I did some more digging and it seem that the torque spec on this tool is 23 Nm. I also read some indicating the torque should be 30 Nm. This is a good 30% difference in torque. Can someone confirm what the real torque should be for our engine? I read on the S85 pdf that the torque should be 23 Nm +/- 3 Nm.
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e92zero wrote ÂGerman torque..question again on the torque. In the TIS on page one, it called for the BMW tool 121172 for tightening down the spark plugs. I did some more digging and it seem that the torque spec on this tool is 23 Nm. I also read some indicating the torque should be 30 Nm. This is a good 30% difference in torque. Can someone confirm what the real torque should be for our engine? I read on the S85 pdf that the torque should be 23 Nm +/- 3 Nm.
Goodentight.
m3alabama wroteLink to where you got the tool?For whoever is interested. I did did all 8 of mine recently and I only removed the airbox. No plenum necessary for sure, not pcv tubes or line or anything. I did buy a flexible spark plug tool which was a must but otherwise a bit of patience and this was quite easy. First 4 took awhile than the second 4 were a breeze
I just did it also. I broke one of the round clips on top of the coil pack. I felt badly about this until I did the other side and discovered that a dealer tech with supposedly all the right tools had broken one of the round clips off the top of a coil pack on that side.
I was using the backyard mechanic method of removing the coil packs, rotating them a little to hopefully loosen up the boot on the plug and then levering the pack out with odd tools from my tool chests. Next time, I may plan ahead and make that PVC plumbing tool . . . although it will now work on only 6 of my 8 coils.
No need to touch the plenum. Just pull the air box on the driver's side, unclip a couple of hoses, and remove the cover over the coil packs. On the passenger side, just loosen the coolant reservoir and move it aside and then pull off the cover over the coil packs. The covers tug off.
The coils were a bit of a pain as noted above. I first disconnected all the wiring harnesses and then I tried to loosen them by rotating them and then I levered them out. For reinsertion, push until you hear and feel that suction snap as it pops fully into place. You will know.
The plugs were easy except for the ones closes to the firewall. Those take more time. On the passenger side, I had to drop my plug socket down the hole and then drop an extension into it. U-joints might work. With patience it is doable. A bendable magnet tool would have helped pull that difficult one out. I used a 3/8 ratchet with a long extension for most of the plugs and a short extension for some of them. My spark plug socket is a very long socket, however, as spark plug sockets go. It helps to have a newer plug socket, the kind that grips the plug. Otherwise, you may have to use a magnet tool to fish the plug out.
I did use a little never seize on the plug threads. I always do. And I tightened them to good-n-tight. I have been working on cars for 30 years.
Took me less than 2 hours start to finish, which is not bad for a first timer on this job.
I was using the backyard mechanic method of removing the coil packs, rotating them a little to hopefully loosen up the boot on the plug and then levering the pack out with odd tools from my tool chests. Next time, I may plan ahead and make that PVC plumbing tool . . . although it will now work on only 6 of my 8 coils.
No need to touch the plenum. Just pull the air box on the driver's side, unclip a couple of hoses, and remove the cover over the coil packs. On the passenger side, just loosen the coolant reservoir and move it aside and then pull off the cover over the coil packs. The covers tug off.
The coils were a bit of a pain as noted above. I first disconnected all the wiring harnesses and then I tried to loosen them by rotating them and then I levered them out. For reinsertion, push until you hear and feel that suction snap as it pops fully into place. You will know.
The plugs were easy except for the ones closes to the firewall. Those take more time. On the passenger side, I had to drop my plug socket down the hole and then drop an extension into it. U-joints might work. With patience it is doable. A bendable magnet tool would have helped pull that difficult one out. I used a 3/8 ratchet with a long extension for most of the plugs and a short extension for some of them. My spark plug socket is a very long socket, however, as spark plug sockets go. It helps to have a newer plug socket, the kind that grips the plug. Otherwise, you may have to use a magnet tool to fish the plug out.
I did use a little never seize on the plug threads. I always do. And I tightened them to good-n-tight. I have been working on cars for 30 years.
Took me less than 2 hours start to finish, which is not bad for a first timer on this job.
I just did this also. The plug I got from Amazon so it's around $11 each. Getting the coils and plugs out of all 8 were pretty easy. I had a hard time pushing the #4 and #8 coil back in though. That last 2 mm lock that create the suction for the coil was a nightmare for these two coils. Turned a 1.5 hrs job into a 4 hrs battle. 
Finally figured out to use a long metal bar as leverage so I can push the coils straight. Other than that, relatively easy. Should be able to cut it down to 1.5 hrs next time. Thank you for the forum members for all the info and detail DIY on this. 
Finally figured out to use a long metal bar as leverage so I can push the coils straight. Other than that, relatively easy. Should be able to cut it down to 1.5 hrs next time. Thank you for the forum members for all the info and detail DIY on this.
Just did the spark plug change on my car. Didn't remove the intake, didn't have any special tools to remove the coils. All I used were two 6 mm box end wrenches and pressed them into the "groove" on the coil and pulled up. Coils came out relatively easily, even the rears. Total time spent was around 2 hours.
All in all, this was one of the easier cars I've changed plugs on.
All in all, this was one of the easier cars I've changed plugs on.
For all you people thinking of doing your own plug change a store on Amazon has them for 4.55 a piece right now.
I got all 8 plugs part number NGK 4471 LKR8AP, and a Gearwrech swivel joint spark plug tool for $61.00 Shipped...
I also have a machine shop ay my somewhat disposal so I designed a tool based on the dimensions previously posted and made a custom piece from 6061 Aluminum...
I got all 8 plugs part number NGK 4471 LKR8AP, and a Gearwrech swivel joint spark plug tool for $61.00 Shipped...
I also have a machine shop ay my somewhat disposal so I designed a tool based on the dimensions previously posted and made a custom piece from 6061 Aluminum...
TxStig wroteSorry heres a link to the company on Amazon that has them so cheap:For all you people thinking of doing your own plug change a store on Amazon has them for 4.55 a piece right now.
I got all 8 plugs part number NGK 4471 LKR8AP, and a Gearwrech swivel joint spark plug tool for $61.00 Shipped...
I also have a machine shop ay my somewhat disposal so I designed a tool based on the dimensions previously posted and made a custom piece from 6061 Aluminum...
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=me%3DA22LWEMCXESXCG&field-keywords=ngk+4471
^that tool looks cool! 
Hey TxStig, want to sell that tool (or make another one for me?)
signes wroteAbsolutely - I'd buy one!Hey TxStig, want to sell that tool (or make another one for me?)
^^ +1 here
TxStig wroteWhich one??and a Gearwrech swivel joint spark plug tool for $61.00 Shipped...
and +1 for making those coil pack tools!
What is the BMW recomended Spark Plug replacement miles/time? Its not in the Owners Manual.
Cheers,
RB
Cheers,
RB
BimmerRob08 wrotemy service manual says to replace the plugs at 37k miles,it's not "condition based" like some other services.when i bought my car with 36k miles on it,they had already been changed at about 30k miles.What is the BMW recomended Spark Plug replacement miles/time? Its not in the Owners Manual.
Cheers,
RB
robbiedawg wroteI'll have to look it up. I just hit 38,000 miles.my service manual says to replace the plugs at 37k miles,it's not "condition based" like some other services.when i bought my car with 36k miles on it,they had already been changed at about 30k miles.
TxStig wroteDoesn't the s65 use Bosch spark plugs ?Sorry heres a link to the company on Amazon that has them so cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=me%3DA22LWEMCXESXCG&field-keywords=ngk+4471
Snig wroteThis one...not even sure if it will work. It recommended it with the plugs and figured people had used it before. Also had seen the back plugs were a little finicky to get tools down in the hole due to the constraints. Figured this may be the solution:Which one??
and +1 for making those coil pack tools!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014ZVSVK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
e92livin wroteECS Tuning shows an NGK R part number LKR8AP as the BMW OEM replacement here I use the pictures on the site to determine the part number:Doesn't the s65 use Bosch spark plugs ?
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-M3-S65_4.0L/Engine/Ignition/Spark_Plugs/ES2207843/
Manufacturer Part number: 12120032273
They also have cheaper option of the same plug here:
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-M3-S65_4.0L/Engine/Ignition/Spark_Plugs/ES2550769/
Manufacturer part number: 12120032273KT
The only difference between them is the OEM BMW ones have the BMW Symbol on them. At least according to my research. See how the manufacturer part number is different only by the KT at the end?
Looks like the 4471 multi ground are all gone...kudos to whomever picked them up.
Laser platinum still available but at a $8.95 premium...
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-Laser-Platinum-4471-Spark/dp/B0071AYNOG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&m=A22LWEMCXESXCG&qid=1352154077&s=generic&sr=1-1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MU5LSI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00
