Cranking / Alternator / Battery Issue

[pzzvv]

I will preface this thread as stating that I am not a mechanic nor the most home-automotively technical individual. Though with that said, I have the capacity to address most issues and correct them - as I have for almost 10 years with this car. This forum and youtube have been a tremendous resource for this. Hopefully that can be the case here. But I have come to a point with a current issue where I cannot seem to figure it out.

About a month ago I began experiencing issues with firing up the car. Upon initial startup (first time for the day), the car would crank very poorly, but after about 4 weak cranks would start up. Every subsequent start after that would be slightly better, though still rather poor.

As a result I went ahead and had the battery replaced under warranty from advance auto parts. The battery is a Die Hard Platinum, 95aH, 950 CCA. Through bimmerlink I went ahead and reprogrammed the battery.

Start up then proceeded to improve, but only for a short period of time.

Went ahead and then decided to order an alternator, and purchased a rebuilt Valeo unit from FCP Euro. The shipment got delayed twice and did not come in until Tuesday of this week. I had the old alternator tested and it was fried.

I installed the alternator and once again went to Advance to get another new battery. Started up the car and while the cranking wasn't great, it was a bit better. Went for a long drive to charge up the battery should need be. Voltage based off a multimeter reading was 12.5v with ignition on and 13.5v when running. From what I've garnered that should be fine.

But crank upon initial startup remains weak, especially if the car sits for a little bit. No codes being thrown either, so that doesn't assist in diagnosis. Thought that maybe the new rebuilt alternator was faulty... but is that realistic?

Anything else I should check out that I'm able to do on my own before I have to go ahead and bring it in to the shop?

[Ajolives]

Starter could also be on its way out. It’s the most likely culprit before we start going down the rabbit hole of ‘what ifs’. It’s a real treat to replace as well.

As far as testing, it I haven’t had the pleasure, mine died on me after a couple weeks of weak cranks. I was in a similar situation, my battery died, then alternator, and eventually the starter gave out a couple months later.

[E92Adan]

Originally Posted by pzzvv

I will preface this thread as stating that I am not a mechanic nor the most home-automotively technical individual. Though with that said, I have the capacity to address most issues and correct them - as I have for almost 10 years with this car. This forum and youtube have been a tremendous resource for this. Hopefully that can be the case here. But I have come to a point with a current issue where I cannot seem to figure it out.

About a month ago I began experiencing issues with firing up the car. Upon initial startup (first time for the day), the car would crank very poorly, but after about 4 weak cranks would start up. Every subsequent start after that would be slightly better, though still rather poor.

As a result I went ahead and had the battery replaced under warranty from advance auto parts. The battery is a Die Hard Platinum, 95aH, 950 CCA. Through bimmerlink I went ahead and reprogrammed the battery.

Start up then proceeded to improve, but only for a short period of time.

Went ahead and then decided to order an alternator, and purchased a rebuilt Valeo unit from FCP Euro. The shipment got delayed twice and did not come in until Tuesday of this week. I had the old alternator tested and it was fried.

I installed the alternator and once again went to Advance to get another new battery. Started up the car and while the cranking wasn't great, it was a bit better. Went for a long drive to charge up the battery should need be. Voltage based off a multimeter reading was 12.5v with ignition on and 13.5v when running. From what I've [...]

Do you have a video of the cranking, I also have an issue with mine the first start of the day it cranks then sounds like it wants to stop then it fully turns on, kinda odd.

[pbonsalb]

I assume you checked the main ground cable under the car by giving it a good tug. Or use jumper cables to add a ground from the block (maybe lift eye) to the chassis to see if that makes any difference in cranking.

Starter is a bit of a pain but if you can handle throttle actuators, you should be able to manage replacing it.

[pzzvv]

Originally Posted by Ajolives

Starter could also be on its way out. It’s the most likely culprit before we start going down the rabbit hole of ‘what ifs’. It’s a real treat to replace as well.

As far as testing, it I haven’t had the pleasure, mine died on me after a couple weeks of weak cranks. I was in a similar situation, my battery died, then alternator, and eventually the starter gave out a couple months later.

I'll look into this a bit. I spoke w a few people and some insist that an OEM alternator will be the fix - & that the rebuilt is likely the problem.

Originally Posted by E92Adan

Do you have a video of the cranking, I also have an issue with mine the first start of the day it cranks then sounds like it wants to stop then it fully turns on, kinda odd.

I can try to get a video posted up tomorrow. That's how it was about a month ago. New alt & battery have made it a bit better but something still isn't right.

[pzzvv]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I assume you checked the main ground cable under the car by giving it a good tug. Or use jumper cables to add a ground from the block (maybe lift eye) to the chassis to see if that makes any difference in cranking.

Starter is a bit of a pain but if you can handle throttle actuators, you should be able to manage replacing it.

I am going to check this now. Car is pretty low so a bit of a pain getting it up on jacks.

I have done my actuators twice, and recently my fuel breather valve... Which I did not think of until now. Maybe when doing my fuel breather the ground on the start might have come loose? They are in close proximity to one another.

[Redd]

What's your mileage? If over 80k miles I would look at:

1. Main cable coming out of the fuse box behind your glove box. There's a TSB on this. They are starting to damage from age causing high resistance and difficulty starting.

2. Starter. Mine just went last week. Pressing on the start button would produce a 'click' but no crank and no start. Takes multiple presses before it would fire up.

Good luck!

[pzzvv]

HAH, the problem was the fricking ground cable. When ground was checked a while back it was fine, but looking at it now it was disintegrated. Replaced w one from autozone for now & will order a new OEM one. Car starts perfect now.

[spammysammich]

I’ve always wondered about using welding cable instead of those braided steel ground cables. The rubber coating and heavy gauge wire would in theory last a long time.

[pbonsalb]

I added an extra ground using black 2 gauge battery cable and replaced the stock one with a cable I made from welding cable. The stock braided steel is probably used for its flexibility, but I have not experienced problems with using welding cable or battery cable. Welding cable has many fine strands so it is more flexible.

The rear exhaust grounds also be rotted.

[Redd]

You can buy ground straps with a rubber sheathing on AliExpress. Cheap too.

[crazydrummer]

Which ground cable are you guys talking about. Have an almost identical issue

[pjk380]

Cable is located drivers side next to the end of the exhaust header.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1444544

[CSL V8 2]

I had similar issues. The car had difficulty starting even after being on a battery tender. For a second I smelt electrical burning. Car wouldn't start or even turn the engine over but it did throw codes for for the alternator. I replaced the alternator and the battery but the car still wouldn't start. I than towed the car into the shop and the mechanic tested the starter which was the culprit. In addition to the starter the ground wire that a few others have mentioned was pretty much disintegrated.

[pzzvv]

Originally Posted by crazydrummer

Which ground cable are you guys talking about. Have an almost identical issue

check the comment below yours - good thread on it. But yea, that was it.