What is this fuse for? Weird problem. does everyone have this?

[Xx__xs]

Hey guys, so frustrating new problem has just come up for me.

N.

[M3_Dylan]

That's a fuse splitter that allows you to add an additional device to the same fuse circuit. For example I used the same one to hardwire my V1. When you remove it just replace it with the original fuse and you should be good to go. Check your fuse guide to make sure you use the correct amp fuse.

[inTgr8r]

It's probably the splitter itself that's bad.

I really don't like using these things unless absolutely necessary and prefer the pigtail style.

You can often find a spare socket that's not in use if you check with a probe.

[jdamore]

The one prong looks bent.?

Bottom line. That Add-a-circuit connector has loosened the female contacts in the fuse panel. You could try to tighten the metal contacts in the panel or try removing the fuse from the add-a-circuit and put it directly in the panel as it came from factory (verifying correct amp fuse).

[Xx__xs]

Originally Posted by M3_Dylan

That's a fuse splitter that allows you to add an additional device to the same fuse circuit. For example I used the same one to hardwire my V1. When you remove it just replace it with the original fuse and you should be good to go. Check your fuse guide to make sure you use the correct amp fuse.

i just figured out from playing with it that the other fuse thats attached to this one is connected to my air suspension..so if i replace it with just the fuse i will not be able to use my air suspension

Originally Posted by M3_Dylan

That's a fuse splitter that allows you to add an additional device to the same fuse circuit. For example I used the same one to hardwire my V1. When you remove it just replace it with the original fuse and you should be good to go. Check your fuse guide to make sure you use the correct amp fuse.

yes, the additional device apparently is my air suspension.

i need to use my air suspension. so i dont see how i can take off the second part of this fuse connection

Originally Posted by jdamore

The one prong looks bent.?

Bottom line. That Add-a-circuit connector has loosened the female contacts in the fuse panel. You could try to tighten the metal contacts in the panel or try removing the fuse from the add-a-circuit and put it directly in the panel as it came from factory (verifying correct amp fuse).

It is bent, how would i tighten the metal contact in the panel? does that involve removing the fuse panel? (removing all surrounding parts around fuse box) i believe the second fuse is part of my air suspension so i dont know where that one would go

but i really want to know guys, whats the green fuse even for? is it battery power? why does the car not start when its loose? and how would i be able to utilize both fuses without that splitter

i think the problem is inside the fusebox itself its too loose and isnt maintaining the connection for that fuse(s)

[jdamore]

You tell us bud. What does that fuse location serve.. this is troubleshooting 101.

I am hesitant to instruct you how to repair the panel because I have never done it. It may be as simple as bending the contacts in the panel with a tiny screw driver or dental pick like tool. I'm traveling for the weekend otherwise I would go out and see if its possible

Was this done by a "professional"? I would take it back and show them what their work has done. There's bare wire at the crimp or maybe never take your car there again.

Again, i would remove the fuse tap from the equation. You can always find a new location for it... After you straighten that prong of course haha

[jdamore]

Here ya go..

[Xx__xs]

Originally Posted by jdamore

You tell us bud. What does that fuse location serve.. this is troubleshooting 101.

I am hesitant to instruct you how to repair the panel because I have never done it. It may be as simple as bending the contacts in the panel with a tiny screw driver or dental pick like tool. I'm traveling for the weekend otherwise I would go out and see if its possible

Was this done by a "professional"? I would take it back and show them what their work has done. There's bare wire at the crimp or maybe never take your car there again.

Again, i would remove the fuse tap from the equation. You can always find a new location for it... After you straighten that prong of course haha

thank you

okay so its number 39 and it shows an engine picture next to it haha. so im assuming its very important

it was done by a professional yes and i paid a shit ton

but its been 2 years and no problems until this week

remove the fuse tap, yes. but i need to figure out how to make the 30 amp 39 number fuse connect properly AND figure out where to stick the air suspension fuse to make it work. i guess i gotta start sticking it in random places. i guess since its working with the 'engine' fuse connection i can try coupling it with other 'engine' fuse places like 4 or 11, 12 etc.

[jdamore]

Definitely don't go sticking things in random places.. this is trouble in all aspects of life.
My advice would be that it should go somewhere noncritical that wouldn't leave you stranded.

[GRUESOM3]

I would run a new line from the battery for something as critical as air suspension and get that circuit back to factory specs. You don't want to be stranded.

[jdamore]

Originally Posted by GRUESOM3

I would run a new line from the battery for something as critical as air suspension and get that circuit back to factory specs. You don't want to be stranded.

YES! This is definitely the right way to go!!

[Xx__xs]

okay so car turned on after 8 hours of sitting, i turned it off and 20 minutes later all electronics are dead good thing window was open. no response from key no ignition its like there is no battery in the car. my trunk is aftermarket and has no key so im locked from trunk there is 0 power

so im assuming the problem is from the red cable that goes to the battery from the fuse box

i have a mobile auto electrician coming on tuesday will see what he has to say about this mess

[inTgr8r]

It may also be this problem....

B+ Cable (Fuse box to battery)




.

[Xx__xs]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

It may also be this problem....

B+ Cable (Fuse box to battery)




.

so the mobile technician came by and he says its the CAS module unit

part number 61.35-9237046-01 2103100119

thats why the car isnt getting any batter power sometimes

and we also need to fix the fuse box problem but thats second priority according to him first its the CAS problem

[Solo_M_Tech]

Originally Posted by System Of A...

so the mobile technician came by and he says its the CAS module unit

part number 61.35-9237046-01 2103100119

thats why the car isnt getting any batter power sometimes

and we also need to fix the fuse box problem but thats second priority according to him first its the CAS problem

Absolutely not. Fix the power issue first, then re-diagnose the car. You have no idea how voltage sensitive these cars are. He most likely thinks the CAS is bad due to it not getting a consistent signal from the DME.... which surprise, will throw CAS voltage codes, starter circuit codes etc.

Your mobile tech is a moron. What professional tech knows the car has a power distribution issue, and blames a module? Giving techs a bad name is all he's doing.

[doogee]

Originally Posted by ham_sammich

Absolutely not. Fix the power issue first, then re-diagnose the car. You have no idea how voltage sensitive these cars are. He most likely thinks the CAS is bad due to it not getting a consistent signal from the DME.... which surprise, will throw CAS voltage codes, starter circuit codes etc.

Your mobile tech is a moron. What professional tech knows the car has a power distribution issue, and blames a module? Giving techs a bad name is all he's doing.

Sounds like a total hack.

Also get that wiring redone properly. What is it even for? It looks like it was done by a 2 year old.

Two different wire gauges, no insulation...wire showing.

Who knows what kind of mess this has caused behind the fuse panel depending on what kind of amps that "Accessory" is pulling.

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by System Of A...

so the mobile technician came by and he says its the CAS module unit

part number 61.35-9237046-01 2103100119

thats why the car isnt getting any batter power sometimes

and we also need to fix the fuse box problem but thats second priority according to him first its the CAS problem

Mobile tech is a dumbass. I had BMW send me a tow guy with a lock out kit since I was COMPLETELY locked out of the car due to the no power issue.

It sounds like your B+ cable issue, because you said when you apply pressure to it, the car comes back to life. It's not very likely that the fuse tap is causing issues. Just check out my DIY as someone linked above.

[Xx__xs]

forgot to update.

i replaced the fuse box (180$ with discount from dealer)

and everything is 100% okay

car is muchhhhh quicker and sensitive to acceleration now much like how it felt when i stuck the fuse in all the way and held it

it seems as if i finally feel my tune with the new fuse box

car is burning out constantly and losing traction in MDM , very very quick compared to before the new fuse box

[doogee]

Originally Posted by System Of A...

forgot to update.

i replaced the fuse box (180$ with discount from dealer)

and everything is 100% okay

car is muchhhhh quicker and sensitive to acceleration now much like how it felt when i stuck the fuse in all the way and held it

it seems as if i finally feel my tune with the new fuse box

car is burning out constantly and losing traction in MDM , very very quick compared to before the new fuse box

Wow everyone go out and change your fuse boxes


The placebo effect is strong on you!

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by System Of A...

forgot to update.

i replaced the fuse box (180$ with discount from dealer)

and everything is 100% okay

car is muchhhhh quicker and sensitive to acceleration now much like how it felt when i stuck the fuse in all the way and held it

it seems as if i finally feel my tune with the new fuse box

car is burning out constantly and losing traction in MDM , very very quick compared to before the new fuse box

You could've saved $120 and replaced the B+ cable.

I want the name of the placebo drug too

[Xx__xs]

Originally Posted by ham_sammich

Absolutely not. Fix the power issue first, then re-diagnose the car. You have no idea how voltage sensitive these cars are. He most likely thinks the CAS is bad due to it not getting a consistent signal from the DME.... which surprise, will throw CAS voltage codes, starter circuit codes etc.

Your mobile tech is a moron. What professional tech knows the car has a power distribution issue, and blames a module? Giving techs a bad name is all he's doing.

haha he thought the car had multiple problems but we held off on buying the CAS until the fuse box was squared away

Originally Posted by doogee

Sounds like a total hack.

Also get that wiring redone properly. What is it even for? It looks like it was done by a 2 year old.

Two different wire gauges, no insulation...wire showing.

Who knows what kind of mess this has caused behind the fuse panel depending on what kind of amps that "Accessory" is pulling.

its for my air suspension. i got it redone lol. the installers for that were in orange county, mickey mouse operation

Originally Posted by doogee

Wow everyone go out and change your fuse boxes


The placebo effect is strong on you!

very funny. for your information ive had an e9x m3 for 7 years. stock, tuned, stroked and bored, detuned, tuned again, full exhaust, no exhaust, 100 different setups. this particular m3 ive had for 2 years, i got a tune about a year ago and distinctly remember not feeling shit from the tune, UNTIL I REPLACED THE FUSE BOX the other day,. multiple fuse innards (that line up with the engine symbol on the diagram) were fucked up which was why the car wasnt even starting sometimes

im shooting flames way more consistently and my 0 to 60 is noticeably quicker

im running a full catless race exhaust btw with a race tune (that i can feel now)

i know what the power is supposed to be from this thing tuned and not tuned. stroked and not stroked. catless exhaust and no exhaust.

Originally Posted by WingZeroX5

You could've saved $120 and replaced the B+ cable.

I want the name of the placebo drug too

there was nothing wrong with the b+ cable i had it checked

[doogee]

Originally Posted by System Of A...

very funny. for your information ive had an e9x m3 for 7 years. stock, tuned, stroked and bored, detuned, tuned again, full exhaust, no exhaust, 100 different setups. this particular m3 ive had for 2 years, i got a tune about a year ago and distinctly remember not feeling shit from the tune, UNTIL I REPLACED THE FUSE BOX the other day,. multiple fuse innards (that line up with the engine symbol on the diagram) were fucked up which was why the car wasnt even starting sometimes

im shooting flames way more consistently and my 0 to 60 is noticeably quicker

im running a full catless race exhaust btw with a race tune (that i can feel now)

i know what the power is supposed to be from this thing tuned and not tuned. stroked and not stroked. catless exhaust and no exhaust.



there was nothing wrong with the b+ cable i had it checked

Tunes don't make a difference on these motors. Certainly nothing you can feel. So whatever you're feeling, has nothing to do with it.

I cant tell if you're serious about shooting flames and having a "race tune"

What exactly entails a race tune? Are you running a Motec system?