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10-10-2017, 09:39 PM | #1 |
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Was hearing a unusual sound. Immediately checked underneath to find the diff bolt by the exhaust hanger sheared off.
The stud sticking out is stuck. How can I remove it? Any help is appreciated. Last edited by R3dliner; 08-23-2018 at 01:25 PM.. |
10-10-2017, 09:43 PM | #2 |
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it doesn't look sheared.... it just looks like the bolt and hanger fell off.
they are hard to remove. i'd get an oem bolt from a dealer and stick it on. i believe it is an 18mm, but double check that. pickup a ratcheting open/close end wrench to make it easy. a socket won't fit. don't buy the nut from ECS tuning, they sent me a slightly different nut and it stripped my bolt.
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10-11-2017, 01:15 AM | #5 |
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1. Can you thread a nut on? If so thread 2 on and then put a wrench on the “inside” nut and loosen. It will back up against the outside nut and essentially turn that into a bolt.
2. If you can tack weld a nut on there you should be able to remove it like a bolt. Although time consuming, a shop should be able to do it very easily. Offer $20 to weld on a nut the drive home and remove it. 3. Some PB Blaster and vice grips may be able to grab the threads and remove, heat helps loosen stubborn threads too.
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10-11-2017, 02:21 AM | #6 |
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if you just put a nut on it with a washer i wonder if the bolt will pull its self out as you tighten it...
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10-11-2017, 08:32 AM | #8 | |
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10-11-2017, 10:45 AM | #9 |
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10-11-2017, 10:48 AM | #11 |
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10-11-2017, 11:10 AM | #12 | |
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An Easy Out kit may work too if you can get a drill in there. Definently soak in WD-40 atleast a few hours before trying to pull it.
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Last edited by HerbNRacer; 10-11-2017 at 11:17 AM.. |
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10-11-2017, 11:13 AM | #13 |
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This would pull the threads right out of the hole, if the stud didnt break first... Probably not the best method.
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10-11-2017, 03:27 PM | #14 |
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Double nut, as others said. Or if you can get your dremel in that area with a reinforced cut off wheel. Create a groove for a flat head screwdriver, then remove with said screwdriver.
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10-11-2017, 03:56 PM | #15 |
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Aluminum subframe bushings (Turner, MRF, etc.) have no negatives excluding the wallet hit, and I did powerflex purple diff bushings which add some diff whine/whir and driveline sound but it was worth it for the improved feel and lowered risk of future failures. Some use new oem diff bushings but it seems they are just too soft (particularly the rear bushing); and some do alum/delrin diff bushings but I don't think I could handle more added noise over the powerflex bushings and the performance is supposedly very similar.
I imagine if there were one or two more mounting points on the diff then the rubber used for the oem side bushings of the diff would be adequate for diff control with the lowest driveline noise transmission. But unfortunately we only have the three points and very poor subframe and diff control from the factory. |
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10-11-2017, 06:17 PM | #16 |
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I had the same issue. I was up in Canada when it happened and couldn't find anything to make a temporary fix. Just had to limp around til the ordered parts arrived back home.
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10-12-2017, 12:09 AM | #18 | |
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10-12-2017, 06:08 AM | #19 | |
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Getting the new bolt to line up is a bit of a bitch, and is going to require you to loosen the other two bolts. In fact I had to remove the top bolt (21mm) in order to line up the new bolt. I went further though and changed all three just for more peace of mind. Having an extra set of hands along with an extra floor jack will also help because as soon as you remove the top bolt the diff will sag, and it is rather heavy. All three OEM bolts only set me back $53.
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10-12-2017, 07:31 AM | #20 |
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Go to a local nut and bolt store like Fastenal or Grainger, they will have thousands
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10-12-2017, 08:08 AM | #21 |
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It's not a stud. It's just the end of the broken off bolt -- not sure of thread size and pitch but the subframe bolts are m12x1.5 and diff bolts could vary. These bolts goes through the subframe and front diff mounts and the exhaust hangers hang off the protruding part. You could use pb blaster or kroil and single of double nut it and try to pull it all the way through since the head and shoulder broke off the other end. You could also use heat on the threaded body (not the nut) and then use vise grips but be careful with heat since the gas tank is not far away.
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10-12-2017, 08:10 AM | #22 |
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Actually I'm seeing Fastenal has the bolt on their site. Unfortunately ships out of Indianapolis. Grainger didn't have the tread size.
Last edited by R3dliner; 10-12-2017 at 08:25 AM.. |
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