DIY rod bearing swap, trans fluid change, and more. Questions before I begin!

Strick · 10-24-2015, 12:54 PM

Hey everyone!

I own an 09' DCT with 131k on the clock! She's been great to me since I've owned it, drive the snot out of it because of work and never gives me problems. -- I'd say at least 60% of the miles are highway (Rotors lasted 60k!).

==== ROD BEARINGS ====

Over the past few weeks I've noticed a tick on the bottom end which has progressively gotten worse. I can now hear it while accelerating next to a median or wall. 110% sure it's a rod bearing (I've had past experience to know the sound). DIY bearing time!

I've taken a look at a few of the DIY guides on here and they give somewhat good insight as to how to tackle the job. Seems simple with mostly "busy" work of removing/lowering the sub frame.

I'm not going to ask for product suggestions as that's been beat to death in other threads. I chose VAC as their shop is literally in my back yard.

However here are the questions that I do have:

- I don't have access to a scissor lift, only a drive on "ramp style." Once driven onto the lift you can then jack the car up an additional foot or so to remove wheels. Is it possible to LOWER not remove the sub frame on this type of lift? How much will the sub need to drop before the pan will clear?

- Here's what I'm ordering for the rod bearing job, let me know if I'm missing anything:
1) VAC Bearings
2) ARP Hardware
3) ARP assembly lube (any specific type?)
4) Pan gasket
5) Motor mounts (Can't wait to see how bad the OEM ones are)
6) Oil/Filter

==== DCT TRANS FLUID CHANGE ====

Being the car has 131k on it I figure it can't hurt to change the fluid/filters on the DCT. I remember seeing a vendor offer a complete kit to DIY. Can any of you suggest one that gets the job done?

///M Power-Belgium · 10-24-2015, 01:02 PM

I would never do this by myself , and I would only go to people with a lot of knowledge for our S65 also people who have done this before .
Our S65 is no joke and not cheap .
And personal I would go first for a Blackstone oil report to know more .
But this is only of what I would do....

Strick · 10-24-2015, 01:10 PM

I've done bearings many a time, not intimidated by it. No need for Blackstone either, it's defiantly a rod bearing.

Appreciate the concern though!

///M Power-Belgium · 10-24-2015, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strick

I've done bearings many a time, not intimidated by it. No need for Blackstone either, it's defiantly a rod bearing.

Appreciate the concern though!

That's ok for me ,I've no problem with that because it's your S65 .
But please keep us posted about the result .

Dave07997S · 10-24-2015, 01:18 PM

From my understanding you do not have to remove the front subframe. You just need to lower it enough to get the oil pan to clear it. I would PM pbonsalb and get his opinion on this.

Dave

Strick · 10-24-2015, 01:31 PM

Thanks Dave!

pbonsalb · 10-24-2015, 02:05 PM

Subframe must be fully unbolted. But it can hang on the suspension. Remove wheels to shed some weight and leave struts hanging from towers. Loosen power steering line bracket to allow slack in line but no need to disconnect. Pan is dual sump with front pickup so you have to get enough space to get past pickup. You can disconnect and remove front pickup to remove pan but don't have to. Clean the area before starting work so your wiggling does not disturb debris that will end up in pan. You won't have an ideal amount of space on ramps on your back but if you have done rod bearings before you know that part and can manage.

M3_Dylan · 10-24-2015, 05:04 PM

Done 2 DIY bearing jobs on these cars now and it gets easier every time. Like you said it's a ton of busy work and nothing "challenging" just set aside a good amount of time, and use your head when your in there to figure out what really needs to be dis-connected and what doesn't. Make sure you pull the fuse for the starter and build up some oil pressure before the first start. Can't remember the number off the top of my head, but it's in one of those DIY's on here. Good Luck!

W Cole · 10-24-2015, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M3_Dylan

Done 2 DIY bearing jobs on these cars now and it gets easier every time. Like you said it's a ton of busy work and nothing "challenging" just set aside a good amount of time, and use your head when your in there to figure out what really needs to be dis-connected and what doesn't. Make sure you pull the fuse for the starter and build up some oil pressure before the first start. Can't remember the number off the top of my head, but it's in one of those DIY's on here. Good Luck!

Pull the fuse for the starter or ignition? I'd think you would want to crank the engine a bit without spark to build oil pressure?

pbonsalb · 10-24-2015, 07:25 PM

Fuel pump fuse. But I did not bother doing that. I did a few brief cranks short of starting but that was it.

M3_Dylan · 10-24-2015, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by W Cole

Pull the fuse for the starter or ignition? I'd think you would want to crank the engine a bit without spark to build oil pressure?

whoops, typo on my part. The user above me is correct it was the fuel pump fuse I pulled.

pbonsalb · 10-24-2015, 08:22 PM

Obviously read all the diy. I am just giving a big picture. There are lots of little steps. Ground strap, headlight leveler, engine cooling fan, power steering hose bracket, hidden pan bolts, rear oil pickup tubes and brackets, 02 sensor bracket on one side and more I would have to think about to list. But for the op who has done some rod bearing jobs before this will all be common sense.

Strick · 10-24-2015, 09:36 PM

So this lift is identical to the one I have access to. As you can see it has the ability to jack the car up while on the lift.

For those that have done this, do you think I'll be able to get enough clearance to drop the pan with this lift setup?

Also, any helpful tools I should have on and to help expedite this process?

pbonsalb · 10-24-2015, 10:00 PM

Ideally with a 4 post you use the center jack on the subframe but you want to drop the sf so its attachment points are off limits. You will have to use a floorjack on each ramp, at the stock jack pads. Hopefully that will get you high enough. Should do it. Drain your oil while car is level before starting. Might still messy when you pull the pan if the front end is up. Lots of dripping no matter what so some mess expected anyway.

I prefer a 2 post for most servicing. 4 post is OK for some things but a pain for others. Easy access and good for storage.

Strick · 10-24-2015, 11:29 PM

That's more or less my plan of attack. Going to use the two moveable center jacks to get the car up as high as I can. Once in the air I'll lower the front onto jackstands on the ramp so I can use the front center jack to lower/raise the sub frame... Just hope I get enough clearance. I'm pretty sure it'll be OK.

Are there any torque specs any of you can point me to for the subframe or oil pan?

pbonsalb · 10-25-2015, 08:25 AM

I looked them up but cannot remember them. People have posted them here before. I did use locktite on some of the oil pickup bracket bolts. Take a picture and then mark the ones that seem to have locitite on them.

ONE_slow_m5 · 10-25-2015, 07:11 PM

This is exciting I'm in for a DIY

Strick · 10-26-2015, 12:58 PM

Any of you guys ever replace fluid/filters in a DCT? I recall seeing a complete kit on one of the forum vendors. Still on the fence if I'll be doing this part yet...

At this point the trans works fine, never had issues. BMW says it does not need to be replaced. With 130k on the clock do you think I should to be proactive?

M3_Dylan · 10-26-2015, 01:46 PM

I personally don't believe in any "lifetime fluid". But at 130k your fluid has been in there an awful long time. I would be concerned at this point it is holding stuff together. Might be worth just rolling with it? I'll let others chime in with their opinions.

Strick · 10-26-2015, 02:10 PM

I'm wondering what size the steering shaft to rack torx bolt is?

jcolley · 10-26-2015, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strick

I'm wondering what size the steering shaft to rack torx bolt is?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=32_1735

Strick · 10-26-2015, 02:35 PM

Thanks, looks like an E8?

10-24-2015, 12:54 PM	#1
Strick Second Lieutenant 275 Rep 250 Posts Drives: 2022 X3MC, 2019 M2C Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Bucks County, PA iTrader: (0)	DIY rod bearing swap, trans fluid change, and more. Questions before I begin! Hey everyone! I own an 09' DCT with 131k on the clock! She's been great to me since I've owned it, drive the snot out of it because of work and never gives me problems. -- I'd say at least 60% of the miles are highway (Rotors lasted 60k!). ==== ROD BEARINGS ==== Over the past few weeks I've noticed a tick on the bottom end which has progressively gotten worse. I can now hear it while accelerating next to a median or wall. 110% sure it's a rod bearing (I've had past experience to know the sound). DIY bearing time! I've taken a look at a few of the DIY guides on here and they give somewhat good insight as to how to tackle the job. Seems simple with mostly "busy" work of removing/lowering the sub frame. I'm not going to ask for product suggestions as that's been beat to death in other threads. I chose VAC as their shop is literally in my back yard. However here are the questions that I do have: - I don't have access to a scissor lift, only a drive on "ramp style." Once driven onto the lift you can then jack the car up an additional foot or so to remove wheels. Is it possible to LOWER not remove the sub frame on this type of lift? How much will the sub need to drop before the pan will clear? - Here's what I'm ordering for the rod bearing job, let me know if I'm missing anything: 1) VAC Bearings 2) ARP Hardware 3) ARP assembly lube (any specific type?) 4) Pan gasket 5) Motor mounts (Can't wait to see how bad the OEM ones are) 6) Oil/Filter ==== DCT TRANS FLUID CHANGE ==== Being the car has 131k on it I figure it can't hurt to change the fluid/filters on the DCT. I remember seeing a vendor offer a complete kit to DIY. Can any of you suggest one that gets the job done?
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10-24-2015, 01:02 PM	#2
///M Power-Belgium General 92184 Rep 31,414 Posts Drives: ///M3-E92-DCT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Belgium iTrader: (0)	I would never do this by myself , and I would only go to people with a lot of knowledge for our S65 also people who have done this before . Our S65 is no joke and not cheap . And personal I would go first for a Blackstone oil report to know more . But this is only of what I would do.... __________________ "MAX VERSTAPPEN" IS THE 2021+2022+2023+2024 F1 WORLD CHAMPION - #UnLeashTheLion - BPM DEV-Tune & DCT Software-Tune & Servotronic & coding ///Alpine HID Angeleyes ///Oem.exhaust mod.
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10-24-2015, 01:10 PM	#3
Strick Second Lieutenant 275 Rep 250 Posts Drives: 2022 X3MC, 2019 M2C Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Bucks County, PA iTrader: (0)	I've done bearings many a time, not intimidated by it. No need for Blackstone either, it's defiantly a rod bearing. Appreciate the concern though!
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10-24-2015, 01:18 PM	#5
Dave07997S Major General 2342 Rep 5,140 Posts Drives: 2024 BMW M2 Toronto Red 6MT Join Date: May 2009 Location: El Segundo, CA iTrader: (1)	From my understanding you do not have to remove the front subframe. You just need to lower it enough to get the oil pan to clear it. I would PM pbonsalb and get his opinion on this. Dave __________________ 2024 BMW M2 Toronto Red 6MT (Sold) 2020 Ford Mustang GT 6MT PP1 444rwhp 2013 M3 Coupe-MR/BLK ZCP, 2011 M3 Coupe-MR/Blk 2007 Porsche 997C2S Speed Yellow/Blk sport seats 2004 BMW M3 Imola/Blk, 2001 BMW M3
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10-24-2015, 01:31 PM	#6
Strick Second Lieutenant 275 Rep 250 Posts Drives: 2022 X3MC, 2019 M2C Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Bucks County, PA iTrader: (0)	Thanks Dave!
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10-24-2015, 02:05 PM	#7
pbonsalb Lieutenant General 7679 Rep 13,759 Posts Drives: 18 F90 M5, 99 E36 M3 Turbo Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: New England iTrader: (4)	Subframe must be fully unbolted. But it can hang on the suspension. Remove wheels to shed some weight and leave struts hanging from towers. Loosen power steering line bracket to allow slack in line but no need to disconnect. Pan is dual sump with front pickup so you have to get enough space to get past pickup. You can disconnect and remove front pickup to remove pan but don't have to. Clean the area before starting work so your wiggling does not disturb debris that will end up in pan. You won't have an ideal amount of space on ramps on your back but if you have done rod bearings before you know that part and can manage.
	Appreciate 1 Quote

10-24-2015, 05:04 PM	#8
M3_Dylan Lieutenant 38 Rep 520 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW M3 Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Orlando iTrader: (5)	Done 2 DIY bearing jobs on these cars now and it gets easier every time. Like you said it's a ton of busy work and nothing "challenging" just set aside a good amount of time, and use your head when your in there to figure out what really needs to be dis-connected and what doesn't. Make sure you pull the fuse for the starter and build up some oil pressure before the first start. Can't remember the number off the top of my head, but it's in one of those DIY's on here. Good Luck! __________________ KW V3's / AA Stage 2 Supercharger / Catless Mid-pipes / AA Mufflers / Apex Arc-8's / PFC 09's
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10-24-2015, 07:25 PM	#10
pbonsalb Lieutenant General 7679 Rep 13,759 Posts Drives: 18 F90 M5, 99 E36 M3 Turbo Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: New England iTrader: (4)	Fuel pump fuse. But I did not bother doing that. I did a few brief cranks short of starting but that was it.
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10-24-2015, 08:22 PM	#12
pbonsalb Lieutenant General 7679 Rep 13,759 Posts Drives: 18 F90 M5, 99 E36 M3 Turbo Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: New England iTrader: (4)	Obviously read all the diy. I am just giving a big picture. There are lots of little steps. Ground strap, headlight leveler, engine cooling fan, power steering hose bracket, hidden pan bolts, rear oil pickup tubes and brackets, 02 sensor bracket on one side and more I would have to think about to list. But for the op who has done some rod bearing jobs before this will all be common sense.
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10-24-2015, 09:36 PM	#13
Strick Second Lieutenant 275 Rep 250 Posts Drives: 2022 X3MC, 2019 M2C Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Bucks County, PA iTrader: (0)	So this lift is identical to the one I have access to. As you can see it has the ability to jack the car up while on the lift. For those that have done this, do you think I'll be able to get enough clearance to drop the pan with this lift setup? Also, any helpful tools I should have on and to help expedite this process?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-24-2015, 10:00 PM	#14
pbonsalb Lieutenant General 7679 Rep 13,759 Posts Drives: 18 F90 M5, 99 E36 M3 Turbo Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: New England iTrader: (4)	Ideally with a 4 post you use the center jack on the subframe but you want to drop the sf so its attachment points are off limits. You will have to use a floorjack on each ramp, at the stock jack pads. Hopefully that will get you high enough. Should do it. Drain your oil while car is level before starting. Might still messy when you pull the pan if the front end is up. Lots of dripping no matter what so some mess expected anyway. I prefer a 2 post for most servicing. 4 post is OK for some things but a pain for others. Easy access and good for storage.
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10-24-2015, 11:29 PM	#15
Strick Second Lieutenant 275 Rep 250 Posts Drives: 2022 X3MC, 2019 M2C Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Bucks County, PA iTrader: (0)	That's more or less my plan of attack. Going to use the two moveable center jacks to get the car up as high as I can. Once in the air I'll lower the front onto jackstands on the ramp so I can use the front center jack to lower/raise the sub frame... Just hope I get enough clearance. I'm pretty sure it'll be OK. Are there any torque specs any of you can point me to for the subframe or oil pan?
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10-25-2015, 08:25 AM	#16
pbonsalb Lieutenant General 7679 Rep 13,759 Posts Drives: 18 F90 M5, 99 E36 M3 Turbo Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: New England iTrader: (4)	I looked them up but cannot remember them. People have posted them here before. I did use locktite on some of the oil pickup bracket bolts. Take a picture and then mark the ones that seem to have locitite on them.
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10-25-2015, 07:11 PM	#17
ONE_slow_m5 Lieutenant 152 Rep 463 Posts Drives: 2020 f90 m5 Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: sugarland, TX iTrader: (-1)	This is exciting I'm in for a DIY __________________ 2020 BMW m5 f90 Project gamma intake downpipes charge coolers . Awe Exhaust Pure_performance_TX stage 3 build motor e40 ABP tune snow performance meth kit 2018 x6m Built motor stage 3 tune PG downpipes
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10-26-2015, 12:58 PM	#18
Strick Second Lieutenant 275 Rep 250 Posts Drives: 2022 X3MC, 2019 M2C Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Bucks County, PA iTrader: (0)	Any of you guys ever replace fluid/filters in a DCT? I recall seeing a complete kit on one of the forum vendors. Still on the fence if I'll be doing this part yet... At this point the trans works fine, never had issues. BMW says it does not need to be replaced. With 130k on the clock do you think I should to be proactive?
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10-26-2015, 01:46 PM	#19
M3_Dylan Lieutenant 38 Rep 520 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW M3 Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Orlando iTrader: (5)	I personally don't believe in any "lifetime fluid". But at 130k your fluid has been in there an awful long time. I would be concerned at this point it is holding stuff together. Might be worth just rolling with it? I'll let others chime in with their opinions. __________________ KW V3's / AA Stage 2 Supercharger / Catless Mid-pipes / AA Mufflers / Apex Arc-8's / PFC 09's
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10-26-2015, 02:10 PM	#20
Strick Second Lieutenant 275 Rep 250 Posts Drives: 2022 X3MC, 2019 M2C Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Bucks County, PA iTrader: (0)	I'm wondering what size the steering shaft to rack torx bolt is?
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10-26-2015, 02:35 PM	#22
Strick Second Lieutenant 275 Rep 250 Posts Drives: 2022 X3MC, 2019 M2C Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Bucks County, PA iTrader: (0)	Thanks, looks like an E8?
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