DCT feels a little clunky

[Rat3d ///M]

Just wondering if anyone else's DCT feels a little clunky or "shifty" when you are changing gears?

Not sure if it has always been like this and I never noticed it, or something changed, but when my car shifts I feel a very slight shift in the tranny. It doesn't seem to be an internal "clunk", but almost feels as though the tranny itself is moving slightly, like I have a worn transmission mount. It is something I can feel around my feet, either in the floor or through the pedals, and seems most pronounced when down-shifting.

It really isn't that pronounced at all, and I wouldn't even mention it, but it seems to have started within the passed couple months and I honestly don't remember it being like that before. IIRC when I got the car shifts were razor sharp and clean, no clunking, vibration or shifting around could be felt whatsoever...or could it?

So just wondering, am I losing my mind, and some "clunking" or shifting is normal with the DCT, or should I investigate a little further?

EDIT: Forgot to mention, car is a 2011, has around 45k miles, and to my knowledge, has never had the DCT or differential fluid changed, besides the 1200 mile break in service.

[fastmike]

I don't ever remember the DCT as being super smooth it has always been kinda clunky especially at low speeds.

[///M Power-Belgium]

I had that clunky feeling too , and is caused by lag especially in second gear it's worst !
That's why it has the name ..."The second gear lag"
When having the second gear lag actualy more gears are involved to get the clunky feeling and the added strange noises.
Actualy the feeling and the sound is created "by delay"=> lag of the DCT transmission !
My BMW/Dealer was not able to solve the problem ect...
The solution is...
When I got my engine/tune and DCT/Software upgrade the lag ...the clunky feeling and strange noises were history !
Even when cold my DCT shifts are smooth and once warmed up the shifts are lightning fast ,with a kick under the butt !
In a few other words...Stock software really s@cks !

[BzsBimmer]

It could be worn transmission mounting bushings or motor mounts if you feel the transmission is moving.

[grantmax]

Coming from SMG, I can safely say that clunky is behind us.

I wish we had a "shift point adaptation" procedure for DCT. That would cure your issue instantly. Keep driving. It will adapt.

[Bavarian Beast]

Is it possible to reset the DCT the same way it was with the SMG, by depressing both shift paddles while in neutral at low speed?

[vsix]

Originally Posted by BzsBimmer

It could be worn transmission mounting bushings or motor mounts if you feel the transmission is moving.

Not always it could really just be the character of our transmissions, wether DCT or manual.
We all got clunky transmissions!

[SJL Custom]

Be sure to check your drive shaft joints for play. Ive seen a number of these wear and cause something similar in description.

As for adaptation or re-learn, there is a procedure that can be done using an oem or advanced scan system. It will relearn the shift positions and values inside the trans.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by SJL Custom

Be sure to check your drive shaft joints for play. Ive seen a number of these wear and cause something similar in description.

As for adaptation or re-learn, there is a procedure that can be done using an oem or advanced scan system. It will relearn the shift positions and values inside the trans.

Hi SJL, just a quick one regarding mentioned relearning; I'm getting the box changed (due to earlier MT fluid - thanks for your guidance). New box, does that mean the dealer has to drive around in my car to get it "relearned", or is this a sw procedure? Appreciate your input. If the former, I plan to stick around when done...

Thanks

Ps. OP, sorry for quick hijack.

[SJL Custom]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Hi SJL, just a quick one regarding mentioned relearning; I'm getting the box changed (due to earlier MT fluid - thanks for your guidance). New box, does that mean the dealer has to drive around in my car to get it "relearned", or is this a sw procedure? Appreciate your input. If the former, I plan to stick around when done...

Thanks

Ps. OP, sorry for quick hijack.

There are a series of programming and learn procedures that have to be carried out. These include clutch adaptation, shift position relearn, torque value reset, valvebody adaptation, and oil condition reset. It is not necessary to drive the car around for these procedures to be executed, but the car will self adapt the clutch adaptations and torque values based on driver input and as the clutch breaks/wears in.

[spiderspider]

Are these procedures only when hooked up the the scan system? The SMG on my 330i got so bad after changing the spark plugs that I nearly brought it in to the shop. Uneven idle and stalling, rough clunky shifts. I did the throttle adaptation procedure - switching the key on for 10 seconds and then off fo 10 seconds then start - and the SMG reset where you get going over 20 mph, put it in neutral and then pull both steering wheel shifters and hold for some number of seconds. Made a huge improvement. I know there is also a clutch slip relearn procedure that can only be done while on the shop's computer as well.

[SJL Custom]

These procedures can only be done with scan tool hooked up as far as I know. Clutch slip relearn is the same as clutch learn procedure.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by SJL Custom

There are a series of programming and learn procedures that have to be carried out. These include clutch adaptation, shift position relearn, torque value reset, valvebody adaptation, and oil condition reset. It is not necessary to drive the car around for these procedures to be executed, but the car will self adapt the clutch adaptations and torque values based on driver input and as the clutch breaks/wears in.

Thanks a million SJL. Then I know enough to have a chat with the dealer and plan out what hopefully is the last bit before time to (finally..) deliver. And that will include no or limited test driving from there side.

Cheers

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Thanks a million SJL. Then I know enough to have a chat with the dealer and plan out what hopefully is the last bit before time to (finally..) deliver. And that will include no or limited test driving from there side.

Cheers

Off topic...sorry for that,Nik do you received my PM ?

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium

Off topic...sorry for that,Nik do you received my PM ?

I did mate, I'll reply on regular mail.

cheers

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

I did mate, I'll reply on regular mail.

cheers

[Edward]

My DCT is clunky in auto mode right when I slow down almost to a stop and the gear changes from 2 to 1. And then if I get right back on the throttle to move again, it is cluky engaging first. By clunky I just mean the knocking sound. When I am controlling the gear changes the clunky sounds are almost never there. Makes me think it's all programming.

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by Edward

My DCT is clunky in auto mode right when I slow down almost to a stop and the gear changes from 2 to 1. And then if I get right back on the throttle to move again, it is cluky engaging first. By clunky I just mean the knocking sound. When I am controlling the gear changes the clunky sounds are almost never there. Makes me think it's all programming.

It's all in my post #3 above , it's the Oem software that realy s@cks !
The trouble word is called...."Lag" !

[xaappx]

DCT on my 2012 is pretty smooth. You should get the software updated... I'm new to these cars, but apparently most of the issues I've read so far have been software related, and not necessarily mechanical.

[SJL Custom]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Thanks a million SJL. Then I know enough to have a chat with the dealer and plan out what hopefully is the last bit before time to (finally..) deliver. And that will include no or limited test driving from there side.

Cheers

Just make certain they flush the oem coolers as much as possible. If this isn't done sufficiently, then youll still have remains of the old incorrect fluid circulating. I would suggest them pulling the front mount cooler right out of the car and flushing it and the cooler tubes that way to make sure its as clean as possible. Don't let them take any short cuts with anything, it is their fault after all.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by SJL Custom

Just make certain they flush the oem coolers as much as possible. If this isn't done sufficiently, then youll still have remains of the old incorrect fluid circulating. I would suggest them pulling the front mount cooler right out of the car and flushing it and the cooler tubes that way to make sure its as clean as possible. Don't let them take any short cuts with anything, it is their fault after all.

Good advice SJL. Actually I initially suggested if they didn't change the cooler and lines as well this has to be pointed out as risk in a warranty contract. Instead they now will replace the whole shebang.

11 weeks without the car and counting...

[SenorFunkyPants]

I suspect most all "clunking" is coming from the drivetrain...that MT owners report similar noises points to drivetrain and half-shaft universal joint lash.
The OP is maybe having a problem with his engine mountings if he feels the engine/gearbox is moving around a little under changes in load. These mountings are known to fail and cause strange noises - definitely worth a check.