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      04-30-2020, 06:38 AM   #45
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I wouldn't count on that.

scaryharry19
What repairs are needed? You said in the op theirs a hole in the block & metal fragments in the exhaust!
If that's true, you're still going to need a new engine
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      04-30-2020, 01:02 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
I wouldn't count on that.

scaryharry19
What repairs are needed? You said in the op theirs a hole in the block & metal fragments in the exhaust!
If that's true, you're still going to need a new engine
Oh yeah.. new engine is absolutely going in. The mechanic hasn't opened it up yet, but there was a ton of coolant in the oil pan. I feel pretty certrain it threw a rod when it hydrolocked. It won't be until after I get the car back when the shop tears down that motor, but I will be posting pics of the damage.
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      05-01-2020, 05:58 AM   #47
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Ah got ya, hydrolocked, makes sense now.
Btw, when you say a new engine, you getting a completely rebuilt engine or 2nd hand engine? Apologises if you've already covered that, my memory isn't great
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      05-01-2020, 10:07 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
Ah got ya, hydrolocked, makes sense now.
Btw, when you say a new engine, you getting a completely rebuilt engine or 2nd hand engine? Apologises if you've already covered that, my memory isn't great
It's a 37000 mile motor w/ new VAC rb's and ARP bolts, VAC performance steel head gasket & ARP head studs. We're also rebuilding the supercharger and retuning on a dyno. Motor will have a 2yr 24k mile warranty.
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      05-04-2020, 07:33 AM   #49
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Sweet!
Keep us posted on it's 1st run & dyno run
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      05-04-2020, 01:24 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by spiderspider View Post
It was a good read, man. But wow, what a nightmare.

I think I would just look at it as a numbers game right now. If a rolling chassis is $12K, what's a used engine plus install - $15-$20K? I think I'd rather take that $12K and the motor money and put it into a low-$20K's M3. Or just cut your losses and drive a civic a few years.

for 20-25 I would do this:

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      05-04-2020, 04:54 PM   #51
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for 20-25 I would do this:

Big fan of the LT4. DW has some sick builds. I'm sure you've seen the S85 e46 swap their doing?
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      05-08-2020, 01:42 PM   #52
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Synopsis confirmed...
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      05-08-2020, 01:47 PM   #53
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Quote:
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Synopsis confirmed...
"RIP"
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      05-08-2020, 01:56 PM   #54
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scaryharry19 View Post
Synopsis confirmed...
"RIP"
Yep. She gone.

Those are NOT arp con rod bolts for the record. Those are genuine BMW stock bolts.
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      05-08-2020, 03:43 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scaryharry19 View Post
Yep. She gone.

Those are NOT arp con rod bolts for the record. Those are genuine BMW stock bolts.
Did the documentation with the car have a receipt for ARP bolts or did the PO just tell you that? I didn’t see this in your previous posts. Good lord that damage is bad. Glad you’re on the way back to getting it on the road.
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      05-08-2020, 03:47 PM   #56
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That sucks!!! Best of luck on handling this.

Just to recap.

The blue vac line you mentioned? The ID was what size? Do you think this is what caused the limp mode when you first bought it?

Bearings were never done? OEM bolts vs the ARP bolts proves that it wasn't performed?
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      05-08-2020, 04:03 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by fs34 View Post
Did the documentation with the car have a receipt for ARP bolts or did the PO just tell you that? I didn’t see this in your previous posts. Good lord that damage is bad. Glad you’re on the way back to getting it on the road.
Nope, they just listed it as a feature and told me that. It was the very first thing I asked about the car. Like I said in my first post, lots of mistakes...
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      05-08-2020, 04:44 PM   #58
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That is terrible.

Hopefully everything works out for you, and it doesn’t put a big hole in your wallet.
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      05-08-2020, 05:05 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvrider1 View Post
That sucks!!! Best of luck on handling this.

Just to recap.

The blue vac line you mentioned? The ID was what size? Do you think this is what caused the limp mode when you first bought it?

Bearings were never done? OEM bolts vs the ARP bolts proves that it wasn't performed?
I'll get back to ya on the ID of that vac line. That blue line was installed a week before it blew up by "shop #2".

RE: RB's. Yeah I'd venture to say they didn't only lie about the bolts
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      05-09-2020, 10:36 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scaryharry19 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bvrider1 View Post
That sucks!!! Best of luck on handling this.

Just to recap.

The blue vac line you mentioned? The ID was what size? Do you think this is what caused the limp mode when you first bought it?

Bearings were never done? OEM bolts vs the ARP bolts proves that it wasn't performed?
I'll get back to ya on the ID of that vac line. That blue line was installed a week before it blew up by "shop #2".

RE: RB's. Yeah I'd venture to say they didn't only lie about the bolts
Vac line ID was about 1/16". Alex said you could barely blow through it, has no idea how they got it around the nipple.

Also confirmed with me this morning that there was in fact no BE bearings or ARP bolts installed.
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      05-09-2020, 12:34 PM   #61
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Painful story. Good to hear that you're getting a new motor. Also seems like you have a solid case for getting Shop #2 to foot the bill. Have you talked to them about the out of spec vacuum line?
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      05-09-2020, 01:25 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scaryharry19 View Post
Nope, they just listed it as a feature and told me that. It was the very first thing I asked about the car. Like I said in my first post, lots of mistakes...
very painful story to read. You can't trust anything anyone tells you when it comes down to some of these M cars, otherwise you will pay a HUGE price. You have to do the work yourself to rest assured. The safest way to attempt a purchase like this is to rent a one way pick up and a tow dolly and take her home then do a thorough inspection and preventative maintenance before enjoying the car.
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      05-09-2020, 02:58 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eja144 View Post
Painful story. Good to hear that you're getting a new motor. Also seems like you have a solid case for getting Shop #2 to foot the bill. Have you talked to them about the out of spec vacuum line?
Not yet.. lots of other sh*t going on at the moment, it's been one thing after another since the beginning of 2019 lol. But soon I will after I get some more advising. I also was misrepresented by the dealer. So there's that too.
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      05-09-2020, 03:10 PM   #64
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Motor going in is getting some love today. VAC Bearings, ARP Bolts, ARP Head Studs, VAC head gasket, valve cover gaskets. Supercharger is off at Vortech getting rebuilt.
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      05-11-2020, 02:13 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scaryharry19 View Post
Motor going in is getting some love today. VAC Bearings, ARP Bolts, ARP Head Studs, VAC head gasket, valve cover gaskets. Supercharger is off at Vortech getting rebuilt.
Aweseom! Hope to see her on the road soon.
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      05-16-2020, 07:01 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scaryharry19 View Post
Oh yeah.. new engine is absolutely going in. The mechanic hasn't opened it up yet, but there was a ton of coolant in the oil pan. I feel pretty certain it threw a rod when it hydrolocked. It won't be until after I get the car back when the shop tears down that motor, but I will be posting pics of the damage.
Did you find out what caused it to hydro lock?
Coolant in pan might have been from the rod smashing the block/coolant passages. So it's possible that RB siezed>rod broke>smashed block>coolant in pan etc. Or injector stuck open>hydro locked>broke rod etc, or coolant dumped in cyl>hydro locked>broke rod, that last scenario I've not come across with an S65 so far. Injector scenario heard of 3 times here.
That said, in the partial pic of the bent rod, I can't see any heat discolouring, unless it's off picture?
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