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      08-16-2019, 12:12 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Make sure you go through a warm up cycle with cabin heat on full to circulate the coolant while getting the engine hit enough for the thermostat to open. You will feel the upper hose get hit and full. Then loosen cap so air in the system from when you drained it that may have since been pushed around the system can vent out. Loosening the cap will key it out. The system is self venting so there is no special bleed process like on an E36 with low mount tank. The self venting just gets air into the expansion tank where it naturally goes to the top. You still have to let it out. Typically this happens naturally as you are checking the coolant level after draining and refilling.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-check/Hq5CpsJ
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      01-06-2020, 10:17 AM   #134
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About to tackle the t-stat replacement.

Can anyone confirm what I read above that this part is the same as OEM... just unbranded?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...1537836155kt1/

What about the sensors? Are any of the non-OEM listed with ECS the same as OEM?

Dont mind spending extra for OEM if they are different parts but see no point in paying the premium if the any of the others are the same without the OEM label.

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-M3...h/13621433076/

Thanks for the great thread and to all have contributed.

---------

EDIT: after doing additional research it appears the Mahle-Behr thermostat is the same as OEM ... but the sensors are not the same as OEM.

Last edited by MikeyDawg; 01-06-2020 at 01:22 PM..
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      01-13-2020, 12:33 PM   #135
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Replaced the t-stat / sensor this weekend and had a few tips I thought I would add to the thread:

-The coolant reservoir siphon technique to lower your coolant levels was very useful. Try to get your siphon tube as straight as possible before you get started, will make it much easier to get the tube down into the bottom of the reservoir.

-The ECS kit I bought actually came with a liter of coolant so I mixed that 50/50 with distilled water and then added that back into the system FIRST before reusing any of the coolant I siphoned out. Didn't need much of the old coolant so while the system isn't fully fresh, it had a refresh of new coolant.

-I had to use a screw driver to pry out the old thermostat... would not simply pull out. Just be careful to NOT DAMAGE THE t-stat housing.

-Used a deep 22mm socket to remove and replace the sensor. Also allowed me to use torque wrench for re-install.

Great DIY thread, thanks for all before me who contributed.
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      05-23-2020, 08:01 PM   #136
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Thank you OP and everyone who contributed. I replaced my thermostat, coolant sensor and breather valve while in there.

As a amateur DIYer..this job was a lot easier than I originally thought. From start to finish it took me under 5 hours (that’s taking breaks and taking my time).

-Plenum removal (my first time) was easy with 4” and 8” extensions. The two bolts in the back was not that bad as long as you get down eye level..you can see where your 6mm socket is going.
- I siphoned coolant from reservoir using transfer pump I bought at Harbor freight for $7.

- Thermostat removal, I scraped off all the rubber part from the old one with a skinny pick and a razor blade - thermostat popped out with light pull

- my 4 gaskets that go to back two tubes were completely shot, make sure you replace those. Used coolant to lube up the gaskets and housing for easy insertion lol

- our cooling system is self air bleeding. I topped off coolant, put cap back on, went for a 20 minutes drive, parked the car, waiting for it to cool off, released the coolant reservoir cap and all the air escaped

- adjustable mechanic chair made this job much, much easier on my back. You can do this whole diy sitting down

Oh and I saved over $700.

Last edited by TheRussski; 05-23-2020 at 08:08 PM..
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      08-01-2020, 04:28 PM   #137
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Just did this, was much easier than I had expected.. took about 90 mins start to finish. Replaced the sensor as well. Hardest part of this was getting the old thermostat out of its housing, it was really stuck in there. Eventually was able to wiggle it out. I did siphon coolant from the expansion tank, only lost about half a cup or so of coolant total during the process.
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      08-01-2020, 05:50 PM   #138
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Thanks!bookmarked!
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      08-10-2020, 11:06 AM   #139
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Sorry I couldn't tell by the pictures, but is the Thermostat in the same area to replace if the primary job is the Throttle Actuator?
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      08-10-2020, 01:42 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroBiz View Post
Sorry I couldn't tell by the pictures, but is the Thermostat in the same area to replace if the primary job is the Throttle Actuator?
sorry, corrected the picture.

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      08-10-2020, 02:40 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX View Post
Thank you!
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      08-10-2020, 02:43 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroBiz View Post
Thank you!
Actually I need to go back and fix my picture, I was doing it quick and circled the wrong TA on one of the banks. Let me fix it real quick.

my mistake...fixed.

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      08-10-2020, 03:54 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX View Post
Actually I need to go back and fix my picture, I was doing it quick and circled the wrong TA on one of the banks. Let me fix it real quick.

my mistake...fixed.

Thank you! Is this the right part? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-11537838480
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      08-10-2020, 03:59 PM   #144
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no that is the housing for the thermostat. Perhaps you should have a friend help you with the work.

This is the mahle part, it's cheaper.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...m6-11537836155
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      08-10-2020, 04:06 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX View Post
no that is the housing for the thermostat. Perhaps you should have a friend help you with the work.

This is the mahle part, it's cheaper.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...m6-11537836155
Thank you, I plan on getting help.
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      03-10-2021, 10:06 AM   #146
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Just replaced my thermostat and coolant temp sensor last night. Beyond siphoning the reservoir first, my tips are:
  1. Aluminum foil to catch any remaining coolant in the hoses. Then I siphoned the puddles from the foil to avoid spills when removing and had essentially zero mess.
  2. Wire hanger to send through the old thermostat to yank it out. My old thermostat was stuck in pretty good (zip ties broke).
  3. 100% silicone lube on the new seals. Housing slid back in like butter on the reinstall.
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      03-11-2021, 01:29 PM   #147
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Agreed with silicone lube for rubber seals, you shouldn't use mineral grease for them as it could cause them to swell.

Looks like I've got to change the T/stat on my M3 too, on a recent trip on mostly motorways and with a newly installed display gauge, it was showing coolant temp was only getting to ~60C! (ambient was ~5C). Oil temp wasn't quite getting to the ctr mark.
I'm getting the 2AF9 coolant temp code too.

I assume the 4 O-rings are for the 4 pipes connecting to the t/stat housing?
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      03-11-2021, 01:40 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
Agreed with silicone lube for rubber seals, you shouldn't use mineral grease for them as it could cause them to swell.

Looks like I've got to change the T/stat on my M3 too, on a recent trip on mostly motorways and with a newly installed display gauge, it was showing coolant temp was only getting to ~60C! (ambient was ~5C). Oil temp wasn't quite getting to the ctr mark.
I'm getting the 2AF9 coolant temp code too.

I assume the 4 O-rings are for the 4 pipes connecting to the t/stat housing?
From the OP's picture (red circled area), the four o-rings are all at the back of the housing. Those two rings pop out of the housing and there is an o-ring at each end (only two visible in the picture).
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      03-11-2021, 01:50 PM   #149
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Ah got ya, thanks.
All 4 are for the 2 connection pipes then.
Glad 1 of us looked at all the photos properly
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      03-13-2021, 01:59 PM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
Ah got ya, thanks.
All 4 are for the 2 connection pipes then.
Glad 1 of us looked at all the photos properly
Careful when you put the pipes back, had to redo after ruin one of the orings. Proper grease on!
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      03-13-2021, 04:04 PM   #151
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Yea but not mineral grease, I use silicone spray for coolant pipe o-rings.
Thanks for the heads up
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      04-13-2021, 02:39 PM   #152
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God damn it, I don't believe it!
Replaced the thermostat today, and despite reading other peoples posts on damaged O-rings and leaks, I managed to take out a chuck out of an O-ring! Fffs, and I was being careful too! And I only found out after I put it together and ran it up.
It seemed the problem stemmed from putting the 2 short ally pipes back in as they came out (left one came with housing, the right one stayed put). Having both the ally pipes in the engine made it easier to put back, and the o-rings were intact 2nd time.

Oh and I forgot to over-order O-rings, so I had to use an old one :/ (so I'll have to take it off again at some point).

Anyway, warms much quicker now, and stays at ~80C on the highways , instead of ~60C.
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      04-13-2021, 03:02 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
God damn it, I don't believe it!
Replaced the thermostat today, and despite reading other peoples posts on damaged O-rings and leaks, I managed to take out a chuck out of an O-ring! Fffs, and I was being careful too! And I only found out after I put it together and ran it up.
It seemed the problem stemmed from putting the 2 short ally pipes back in as they came out (left one came with housing, the right one stayed put). Having both the ally pipes in the engine made it easier to put back, and the o-rings were intact 2nd time.

Oh and I forgot to over-order O-rings, so I had to use an old one :/ (so I'll have to take it off again at some point).

Anyway, warms much quicker now, and stays at ~80C on the highways , instead of ~60C.
Haha! Yep, did exactly the same, after reading exactly the same stories... anyways, plenum easier to get off 2nd time that shortly after, and pleasure to see the coolant go straight tp 79C and stay put.

Well done!
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      04-14-2021, 01:45 PM   #154
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Thanks . Yea 1st time took a few hours, I was taking it easy, and I sorted out problems with the undertray clips as well as fully draining the coolant from the rad.
2nd time I started in a rush at ~3.45pm (with the workshop closing at 5:15!), and despite my 6mm socket and UJ falling off the driver handle into the V, and having to take the plenum off again (after doing up just 2 fortunately) I was done by 5:10!

Still, those f******g clips are a PITA, especially the 2 back ones on the RHS of the engine!
A work mate was telling me that on some bikes with similar throttle bodies, they have a single rod that connects all the clips, why couldn't BMW have done that for these!!?
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