(ENGINE RUNS!!!!) Broke down my engine block and changed the engine

[jvictormp]

First oil change after 500km (there was one oil change right after firing the engine, but no one after driving).

Some metal shavings retained in the filter, from old engine (I hope).

I think they came from oil cooler, filter housing, and/or oil pan, cause they were cleaned up and reused.

I'll put a magnetic drain plug and buy a boroscope to inspect the oil pickups. Can anyone suggest one to me?

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

First oil change after 500km (there was one oil change right after firing the engine, but no one after driving).

Some metal shavings retained in the filter, from old engine (I hope).

I think they came from oil cooler, filter housing, and/or oil pan, cause they were cleaned up and reused.

I'll put a magnetic drain plug and buy a boroscope to inspect the oil pickups. Can anyone suggest one to me?

Damn! Looks like gravel/sand in the photos but must be metal I guess. Not what one would like to see in the filter but as long as it does its job...

Good luck on this never ending journey!

[amrazM]

Get dimple plugs. A bit expensive but a good alternative to having to replace the plugs every other oil change.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part.../002201ecs01a/

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by amrazM

Get dimple plugs. A bit expensive but a good alternative to having to replace the plugs every other oil change.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part.../002201ecs01a/

I don't know, because the material seems to be from the block. I tried a magnet on the metal shavings, and they did not stick to the magnet.

Tried it on the block itself, and didn't attract.

Tried it on pistons, bearings and other parts, and it DID.

So, I think the magnet on the drain plug won't help.

But I'll buy it anyway. And I want to inspect the oil pickups in the next oil change with a endoscope camera.

[Assimilator1]

The only thing magnetic in the engine will be iron/steel alloys.
Aluminium alloys won't be, like the pistons (it was likely the gudgeon pin that was attracted). The bearing shells will be, but the lead/copper layers over the steel backing won't be.
So magnetic sump plug for the engine will be of very limited use, more useful for gearboxes and diffs.

[jvictormp]

I will inspect the oil pickups as soon as I come back home in some days.

Any thoughts on reusing engine oil? I just changed it, didn't make 200km yet.

I'm thinking on buying two plastic recipients to collect the oil, then reusing it after inspecting the oil pickups, leaving out something like 0.1L to avoid any metallic deposits of the bottom.

[rcracin]

Don’t reuse oil.

Put a cheaper oil if you want to cycle and flush. That’s better than reusing.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by rcracin

Don’t reuse oil.

Put a cheaper oil if you want to cycle and flush. That’s better than reusing.

But it's not intended to flush.

I just want to remove the oil to check the pickups. Then put back an oil I can run for like 5000km until a new oil change.

[rcracin]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

But it's not intended to flush.

I just want to remove the oil to check the pickups. Then put back an oil I can run for like 5000km until a new oil change.

Whatever your intention, don’t reuse oil.

Drain a tiny sample and send to blackstone if possible. Or use cheap oil, inspect your pick ups two times, then put good oil.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by rcracin

Whatever your intention, don’t reuse oil.

Drain a tiny sample and send to blackstone if possible. Or use cheap oil, inspect your pick ups two times, then put good oil.

Can't figure out the reason behind it. Could you be more specific?

[spammysammich]

No matter how careful you are and how clean the exterior of your oil pan and containers, you risk putting contaminants into your engine by bypassing the filter and reusing dirty/used oil. Drain what you need for oil analysis and put new back in to replace it.
With all the work and stress you put into the car, why take more unnecessary risks?

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by spammysammich

No matter how careful you are and how clean the exterior of your oil pan and containers, you risk putting contaminants into your engine by bypassing the filter and reusing dirty/used oil. Drain what you need for oil analysis and put new back in to replace it.
With all the work and stress you put into the car, why take more unnecessary risks?

Okay, now you put an argument.

Btw, I won't make oil analysis, I need the sump to be empty for me to insert an endoscope camera inside it to inspect the oil pickups, if there is any metallic pieces stuck in the suction screen, you know?

[rcracin]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Okay, now you put an argument.

Btw, I won't make oil analysis, I need the sump to be empty for me to insert an endoscope camera inside it to inspect the oil pickups, if there is any metallic pieces stuck in the suction screen, you know?

I apologize. Didn't understand what you were asking.

It's extremely difficult to keep the oil clean once removed. And what if there are particles in the oil that you can't see?

Your inspection idea is good. If you have the time, I'd pull the oil pan and send it off to get cleaned. There are a lot of crevices that can trap dirt. If it checks out after that, I'd run do 2-3 oil flushes to clean out the engine and hope that any remaining particles have been cleaned out.

[jvictormp]

Hi guys.

Updating.

I inspected the oil pickup screens and all the rod bearings.

Sharing the media:

Sump out

Found this inside the sump

Checking oil pickup screens

ACL H-STD rod bearing cyl 1 with 3.000km

ACL H-STD rod bearing cyl 4 with 3.000km

Starting engine after inspection part.1

Starting engine after inspection part.2

First run, and bedding-in new EBC Yellowstuff brake pads

[jvictormp]

And man, that bolt of the gearbox with sump is a PITA!

I can't remember how I did the first time I changed the bearings, but this time I had to detach the gearbox oil pipes to force them off and insert the E12 socket there.

Decided to replace that bolt for another one with Hex head, so I can undo it with an open ended wrench.

The blue arrow is the oem one, the red is the one I put in place, the yellow was an allen head, and the green was a shorter hex head and shorter lenght.

Ideal thing would be the green arrow bolt with oem lenght, because its shorter head would fit a box wrench, and I could do the "good and tight" torque. But I couldn't find that head with original lenght.

The bigger hex head, although it's got the original lenght, won't fit a box wrench, only open ended.

Between the two options, I think it's better to have more threads, than more torque, if you know what I'm saying.

[e92ben]

Wow. Sucks! Replace those injectors people!!

[amrazM]

jvictormp how much oil did you have to put in the car when you swapped the engine? I pulled my engine out and everything went completely empty including the oil cooler, so far im at 11qts and its asking for 1 more.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by amrazM

jvictormp how much oil did you have to put in the car when you swapped the engine? I pulled my engine out and everything went completely empty including the oil cooler, so far im at 11qts and its asking for 1 more.

It was about that, more than 11qts, less than 12qts.

Be patient, because level measuring takes times to settle.

I put about 10.75 liters at first, went for a drive.

It asked for 1 liter more. I put like 0.3L.

Went again for a drive. It kept asking 1 lt.

Went home to get another liter. This time I put like 0.6L.

Then it exceeded maximum

So, I removed about 0.4L, and the level god was satisfied.

Check here how it was:

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=298

[amrazM]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

It was about that, more than 11qts, less than 12qts.

Be patient, because level measuring takes times to settle.

I put about 10.75 liters at first, went for a drive.

It asked for 1 liter more. I put like 0.3L.

Went again for a drive. It kept asking 1 lt.

Went home to get another liter. This time I put like 0.6L.

Then it exceeded maximum

So, I removed about 0.4L, and the level god was satisfied.

Check here how it was:

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=298

Thank you for replying, I thought maybe my sensor wasnt working right because thats alot of oil

[Assimilator1]

Curse BMW and their lack of dipsticks in these!

My 2010 330d has one!

[jvictormp]

Removed the crankshaft (after a long time forgotten)

Seems perfect.

Not like the main bearings though

Remember: oil starvation occurred for about 20 seconds

[Assimilator1]

Crank being perfect is stretching it a bit I think, in the 3rd photo there's some mottling/roughness showing, but it's not bad.

Thanks for the follow up strip and pics .... what happened to your engine again btw? lol