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      10-27-2017, 07:03 AM   #23
shimmy23
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Will be doing this soon. Does anyone know torque specs?
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      10-27-2017, 07:20 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmy23 View Post
Will be doing this soon. Does anyone know torque specs?
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/5yhnA2X

Forgot to mention, torque depends on model year (4/29/08 situation) reference this diagram to choose your torque:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/PgzXOMt
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      02-24-2018, 12:40 AM   #25
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If anyone needs one, I have a brand new one, in box for sale. I never installed it and sold my car. $35 shipped.
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      05-23-2018, 12:06 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfirwin View Post
This DIY really helped.

My M3 was built in Feb 02, so I made sure I had the right idler pulley. (Thanks, Theodore!)

While I was at it, I also replaced:

the accessory belt
the accessory belt tensioner
the accessory belt pulley
the A/C Belt
the A/C belt pulley
and the A/C belt Tensioner

ECS tuning part #2777259

BTW, you can get away with not replacing these, (except the belts) when you start hearing that squealing from under the hood (mine started around 85K miles) it'll be the idler pulley. I've always believed that you should replace parts that'll liable to go bad while you are at it. The pulleys all run on bearings, so they will wear out at some point.

I couldn't get the accessory (alternator) belt off without removing the idler pulley. Perhaps someone knows a better way?

The tensioners and pulleys are 14mm bolts, less the idler pulley.

Those bolts are not on super tight, so make sure you don't wrench them down too tight.

Remember there are rubber bushings that can be crushed.

Be super careful of the radiator overflow hose. The nipple on the upper radiator breaks easily.

The hardest part to removing the fan housing is getting it past the upper radiator hose. Be patient, be careful, and you can get the housing out without breaking anything. (I didn't)

+1 for removing the underbelly cover. Not only does it make it easier to reattach those lower hoses, but also to retrieve those dropped parts/tools.



edit - Just noticed that the picture below is wrong. The A/C / Power Steering Belt goes OVER the Power Steering pulley (#3), not under. It also goes UNDER the Idler pulley (#5), not over. See the pic below.

edit edit - So, ECS sent me the wrong belts. The correct belts for my pre-May 2008 are 6PK1067 and 6PK1460

My M3 was built in '09, and the diagram you have is correct for me. That image shows the correct belt layout for builds after mid-2008 that have a counterclockwise power steering pump and a double-sided drive belt for the AC.

Here's the difference. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/PgzXOMt

I was replacing a bad alternator when I broke my upper radiator nipple. I should have read your post first. I got coolant all over both belts, so I replaced them both. I did not replace my pulleys or tensioners and I don't have any engine squeal.

And you are right about removing the idler pulley. I had to do that to get both belts off. It would be impossible without removing it.
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      09-24-2018, 08:47 PM   #27
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I just did this today. Thanks for the write up and part numbers!
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      10-31-2018, 05:10 PM   #28
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Question - the intake manifold isn't required for removal, correct? Just the intake piping and air box?

Thanks.

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      11-03-2018, 03:15 PM   #29
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Did the job today - only needed to remove the air box, not the intake manifold like the original instructions mentioned.

With that said, the idler pulley in the middle with either the offset or centered hole, that is rather inexpensive at $25-$30. However, the two tensioner pulleys are hella expensive because they don't sell the pulley separately. I did manage to pull it apart afterwards.

Pulley Dimensions -

1. OD - 70mm
2. ID - 16.95mm
3. Width - 26mm

Dayco has two pulleys listed -

Pulley #89144 -
OD - 70mm
ID - 17mm
Width - 25mm

&

Pulley #89133
OD - 70mm
ID - 17mm
Width - 24.5mm

Both said they can be used for 6 rib belts. They list for ~$25 on Amazon. May be a cheap alternative than replacing the entire assembly which isn't needed.

Doug
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