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07-31-2016, 06:12 PM | #1 |
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Is it worth buying a 2011.5 or newer M3 over an 08?
Trying to make a decision, and I'm not sure whether to buy a 2011.5 or newer over an older car like an 08 or 09. I THINK that I want the features in the 2011.5 such as bluetooth audio, iPod integration, new nav, etc, but I'm not sure if it's worth the extra money.
Anybody else with these features feel like they don't use them enough to justify spending the extra money on them? What I'm wondering is... is it a bad idea to purchase a older, higher mileage car? I'm hoping I could buy a car with around 60k-70k miles on it, and not have to do anything major until 100k. Sorry for my many questions |
07-31-2016, 06:38 PM | #3 | |
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And can't many of the features in the newer year cars be retrofitted on the older ones such as BT audio? |
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07-31-2016, 06:39 PM | #4 |
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07-31-2016, 06:50 PM | #6 |
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No one can really answer this question for you, it's what you're comfortable with. If the car is maintained properly and has the proper proof to go along with it, I would buy a 100k mileage car given the proper price.
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07-31-2016, 06:52 PM | #7 |
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08-02-2016, 06:54 AM | #8 |
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My 2011 purchased new missed the upgrade to the new features you describe here. I contacted Mike Benvo at BPM (http://www.bpmsport.com/products/ret...-retrofit.html) for the Combox retrofit. I am by no means mechanically, or in this case, electronically inclined, however, was able to fit the newer Combox to my vehicle with no problem. Mike stayed on the phone with me to go through the install and then he performed the programming remotely. Works as advertised, just an FYI in case you purchase an older model.
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08-02-2016, 11:59 AM | #9 |
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I've owned two 2008s and I borrowed a friends 2013 for a week at time on occasion. I could personally care less about the difference in NAV but different people want to experience different things with the car.
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08-02-2016, 04:43 PM | #10 |
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Buy the newest you can afford.
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08-03-2016, 09:40 AM | #12 |
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I'd buy the best condition car you find with the lowest mileage and best service record.
Also for example, i'd take a 40k mile car with a documented history and good seller who is patient and reasonably honest, over a 20-30k mile car without a verifiable history. Buy private, help out a good seller. Screw the dealers, they suck. |
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08-03-2016, 11:09 AM | #13 | ||
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I have a 2011.0 as well (missing all the .5 and .75 goodies) and you have a couple routes depending on what is important to you. You can do above ^^ and Mike Benvo seems to be very well respected in the community here, you can have some coding done - Alex @ AMS seems to be good - http://www.alpinemss.com/product_p/RME.htm and buy a bluetooth adapter like https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for streaming music. I don't have an iphone and I never use Satellite, nor Spotify, etc so it didn't make a difference to me. The Auto start/stop feature was added in 2011.5, which no one seems to care for one way or another. Quote:
Hope this helps =) |
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10-11-2016, 07:47 AM | #14 |
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I was in the same boat as you, I wanted to save money and get an 08, and would do a tail light upgrade etc eventually and a iDrive retrofit as well, if you do the math it will cost more to do those individually. I found an M3 which was 2011 and ZCP model which had the facelift, all the tech I wanted and is newer overall. About 77k on the clock however it was a SINGLE OWNER and had all the maintenance records. That was important to me.
In the end, do what makes you more comfortable and I would say spend the extra few thousand on a facelift model in the end you'll be a lot happier!
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10-11-2016, 09:50 AM | #15 | |
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Drives: '07 328xic '11.0 M3 DCT
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10-11-2016, 01:44 PM | #16 |
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I went with a 2009, as it offers the updated navigation, and then I just added LCI tailights to update the rear end of the car. To me, this was the cheapest, yet most effective way to go.
I have never cared about owning the newest example possible, and am certainly not going to pay thousands more just because. I purchase cars based on previous ownership/history/maintenance etc., which strongly outweighs model year of a vehicle. This is unless of course there are major build differences or major issues with earlier models that have since been addressed on the newer models.
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Last edited by AP3X_FTW; 10-11-2016 at 01:52 PM.. |
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10-16-2016, 09:02 PM | #17 |
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To me, a 2008-2013 all have the same engine right? The price difference is what your paying for is the tech. Most people want strippers anyways these days. Just go for a car that has a maintained history and call it good.
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10-23-2016, 01:33 PM | #18 | |
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10-24-2016, 12:51 PM | #19 |
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Definitely consider maintenance records over options.
On an "older" model be aware of the rod bearings. BMW did change the construction of the rod bearings on the newer models. |
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10-24-2016, 08:24 PM | #20 |
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From a bearing perspective, I'd actually prefer the 08 over a 2011. The optimal year for me personally would be a 2009-2010.
"Newer factory bearings (2010.5 and later) are made from tin-aluminum, not lead-copper. Tin-aluminum bearings are 4-times harder on the surface than lead-copper bearings. This extra hardness shows signs of doing more damage to motors as there seems to be more bearing failures with 2010.5 and later vehicles. Tin-aluminum bearings also don't show the same signs of premature wear in Blackstone oil analysis due to lack of lead and copper." Source: https://www.bebearings.com/
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