(ENGINE RUNS!!!!) Broke down my engine block and changed the engine

[LakeSurfer]

As a huge supporter of DIY anything I like to see this stuff.

I do as much of anything that I can n my own. I live in a pretty nice neighborhood in Florida and people are always confused by my projects. I was told by a neighbor that I don't fit into the neighborhood because around here people pay people to do the simplest things. I was asked why I don't pay someone to mow my lawn the other day. Our lots are super tiny and it takes about 20 mins to do it myself. I'm not cheap but I can't imagine why I couldn't do it myself. Saving money is great but there is so much information out there to help you with just about anything you want to do.

Keep it up and good luck. Don't lose motivation.

[deansbimmer]

Sorry to hear about your engine failure.

Glad to hear you're replacing the engine and not attempting to repair. There won't be anything reusable from that bottom end, and at your mileage the heads and everything else would be better off being replaced with parts of lesser wear. The most reliable replacement will be a used factory built engine.

[Assimilator1]

Originally Posted by rcracin

At 113k, the s65 is worn out. Sure, it works. But it’s tired. Better off spending the money to build a new one. I’d only buy a 40-50k mile used engine.

Lol, no! , somewhat worn yes, but not worn out.

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Assimilator1

Anything about monitoring main bearings through oil analysis?

edit: ah, nevermind, just went to the oil analysis thread and saw that the most wear occurs much time before spinning, in a way you won't catch in analysis made after that wear.

Even if it was 100% reliable, you would have no way of telling if the wear metals came from the rod bearings or main bearings.

[rcracin]

Maybe I was a little aggressive in saying worn out. But if for the same money i can have a fresh motor vs a 113k mile motor and all it cost me was time, i’d go for the fresh motor.

113k on a 12:1 comp motor is tired.

[Avetiso]

Sorry to hear about the motor. That sucks. I hope you can get a reliable replacement (whether rebuilt or drop in used) up and running soon.

[jvictormp]

I've got good and bad news.

I've bought a better engine, but won't have money for gas.

So, it is:

40.000km, from a 2011/2012 donor car.

I'll keep you informed.

[M3 hacker]

That’s great news!!!

[Nomad Dave]

Smart move!

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

I've got good and bad news.

I've bought a better engine, but won't have money for gas.

So, it is:

40.000km, from a 2011/2012 donor car.

I'll keep you informed.

Sounds good in my ears. 40kkm is close to "new" assuming its looked after, great! How much is an engine like that these days?

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Sounds good in my ears. 40kkm is close to "new" assuming its looked after, great! How much is an engine like that these days?

In Brazil:

~ 10,000.00 USD

[Redd]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

I've got good and bad news.

I've bought a better engine, but won't have money for gas.

So, it is:

40.000km, from a 2011/2012 donor car.

I'll keep you informed.

Probably a wise move. And your car will be on the road soon! Congrats!

[jvictormp]

Bad news again.

Engine arrived, but there's a huge weld in oil pan. Seller didn't mention anything about it.

I did know it had front collision, but hadn't gotten any pictures. People around here gave me information about the car and managed to get pics to me, as the seller is not reachable on weekends.

So, I'm showing some pictures of the engine here at home, and some pictures of the donor car before having the engine taken off.

[jvictormp]

Reposting second and third pictures due to orientation issues.

[jvictormp]

By the way, bad engine is out. Was taken off by above, but I had to remove the hood with the help of a friend.

PS and AC systems are fine, compressor is in the car, no gas lost, pump is the car, no fluid lost.

[jvictormp]

Assimilator1
Rod bearing seems free on crankshaft.

[jvictormp]

And I found this lone lady lying on subframe.

As you can see, it's dated of 2011. Car is 2008.

Block shows 2011 date too, but car's registration document shows nothing about engine replacement.

May the engine have been replaced completely? How can I see my engine number from factory?

Strangely, rod bearings, when I changed in 2020, were the first version, of 2008.

[jp1984]

Sir, I believe you have 2 bad engines now.

Do whatever you can to get a refund.

I am sorry, this would be hell for me.

Good luck.

[Assimilator1]

I'm confused by the last 2 pictures, is that from your blown engine or the replacement engine?
And where do you see the date of 2011?

Regarding the welded sump (and yea that's bad of the seller not to tell you that!), if the sump of your blown engine is intact, use that.
If not, you need to find out if the sump is a structural part of the engine, or merely a sump pan, if the latter, and if it doesn't leak, then just use it.
Perhaps someone here will know the structural answer? Maybe deansbimmer Green-Eggs

And interesting to see the rod bearing on your old engine not being seized.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by Assimilator1

I'm confused by the last 2 pictures, is that from your blown engine or the replacement engine?
And where do you see the date of 2011?

Regarding the welded sump (and yea that's bad of the seller not to tell you that!), if the sump of your blown engine is intact, use that.
If not, you need to find out if the sump is a structural part of the engine, or merely a sump pan, if the latter, and if it doesn't leak, then just use it.
Perhaps someone here will know the structural answer deansbimmer @Green-Eggs

And interesting to see the rod bearing on your old engine not being seized.

The last two pictures?

I mean, where you see a hole in the block, it is the old engine.

Where you see a weld in the sump, it is the new engine.

[jvictormp]

And the date, 2011. It is stamped in the old engine.

The new engine too, but that is not a new fact, as it was expected and listed as a 2011/12 engine.

But the old engine, I expected it to be a 2008 engine, and just found out it has parts of 2011.

[jvictormp]

Talked to the seller recently.

He apologized, and asked me to send the engine back to him, with my old sump together, shipping costs with them, in order for them to replace the welded sump for my old good sump. All this to keep the warranty and not let me open the engine on my own.

And assured to me that the sump cracked because of the front collision, didn't come apart, nor run without oil, was only a crack.

Sure, I should give up and get the money back. And buy another engine.

Problem is. What other engine? What if this engine is good?

[Assimilator1]

I think them offering to swap sumps, keep the warranty, and they pay for the shipping is worth having (and good that they didn't try to deny it).
That said, it depends how long the warrantee is? And whether you wanted to replace the (presumably) OEM bearings with aftermarket bearings, which would void the warrantee! Unless you waited until after it ran out, but of course that would be extra hassle then.
And there is the issue of them selling the engine with a cracked sump and not telling you! Did they just forget?? Or deliberately kept quiet about it??

If their are no other engines, then you have no choice really, unless you waited for 1 to turn up!?
Btw, was you able to see the service history for the replacement engine?