glitter, flakes, magnetic material in oil after some high RPM driving

[bmwm3s65]

Originally Posted by Beamer_Guru

I’m looking to purchase a engine soon
Can you give me an estimate
Thanks bro

the remanufactured engine was about 25k installed.

[Assimilator1]

Originally Posted by acarr6

My gintani stroker (and supercharged) was built 5 years ago. 4.4L. Still going strong!

Looks like this got missed, awesome build! How many miles have you done on it?

[CSBM5]

Originally Posted by Beamer_Guru

I’m looking to purchase a engine soon
Can you give me an estimate
Thanks bro

Steve Dinan's shop is one choice redone with proper rod bearings, valve springs and 4.2L bore: https://carbahn.com/product/sd265-00...ngine-rebuild/

[bmwm3s65]

It has been 2 years but i finally got the engine on the stand. getting ready to pull the pan and bedplate to check the mains.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by bmwm3s65

It has been 2 years but i finally got the engine on the stand. getting ready to pull the pan and bedplate to check the mains.

Good luck!

[bmwm3s65]

I wanted to take all the rod bearings out and not replace them, however, if i do that, when i rotate the engine, to get the next rod bearing, then the rod will scratch the journal because the assembly is rotating with no bearings. i guess it doesn't matter that much if the crank has be machined or replaced, but i rather not trash the journals if i can help it. Any Ideas? do i just leave the rod bearings in and continue to pull the bedplate. I am assuming the oil pump has to come out as well.

[RocketyMan]

That #5 and #1 CR journal looks completely serviceable. Just needs a nice polish. Did you take your finger nail across it? It looks like it wouldn't even catch, and the journal has plenty of hardened material left.

I didn't see any pictures posted of the CR bearing itself. Did you post those earlier? I tried skimming the thread and couldn't find them.

At any rate, just put the bearings back into the rods if you're worried about it. You aren't spinning this thing over and over under a heavy load--so the crank can handle that. Put some lube on it too. Then inspect the other CR journals.

Post some more pics!

[bmwm3s65]

Originally Posted by RocketyMan

That #5 and #1 CR journal looks completely serviceable. Just needs a nice polish. Did you take your finger nail across it? It looks like it wouldn't even catch, and the journal has plenty of hardened material left.

I didn't see any pictures posted of the CR bearing itself. Did you post those earlier? I tried skimming the thread and couldn't find them.

At any rate, just put the bearings back into the rods if you're worried about it. You aren't spinning this thing over and over under a heavy load--so the crank can handle that. Put some lube on it too. Then inspect the other CR journals.

Post some more pics!

Thats what i decided to do, put the rod bearings back in and pull the bedplate first. Another question. Can i pull the bedplate and immediately tell if a main bearing is damaged or will i need to pull the crank for a full inspection? If i need to pull the crank, do i need access to the top end to take apart the timing chain before i can pull the crank out.
I have two goals. determine if the block can be rebuilt and determine if rod bearing spun because of main bearing failure. In order to do this, i am assuming i need to see if a main spun, and if the any of the main bearing saddles are cracked.

[RocketyMan]

Do you have the timing tools for the S65? You don't want to pull the bedplate without releasing the timing and the cams on the heads. You have to remove the oil pump assembly too.

Generally speaking, if you inspect EVERY CR bearing and none of them are damaged from lack of lubrication, then the mains should be fine. I would've done this FIRST, inspecting each CR bearing and journal of cyln 1-8.

So...pics of each CR bearing 1 through 8???

[bmwm3s65]

Just to recap, original engine spun rod bearing #1 around 78k miles. bearings had been replaced with BE bearings around 53k miles. as far as i am aware there have been no BE bearing failures where the BE bearing was at fault, so i assumed mine failed because of a main bearing failure. Correct me if i am wrong, due to that, I want to verify whether or not it was a main bearing failure, because if the mains are intact then most likely the block is salvageable. Here are all the BE bearings i believe they have at least 25k miles on them. first row are the BE bearings that spun, second row are the original bearings I put back in and drove 6 miles to dealership to have the engine replaced.

[RocketyMan]

If it was me, I would've just paid circa $100 to just tow the vehicle to the dealership knowing if the bearings were trashed--but it's moot point.

From the pictures...your "1" bearing looks like it still has it's tang on the shell. Do you have pictures of the connecting rod surfaces? What about the cap for that bearing shell in question? What about the backside of the bearing itself? I'm curious of the condition of these...

It doesn't look like the bearing "welded" itself to the crank.

The worst journal looks to be the forward-most CR journal--which in that case would be cylinder #5. But you're saying it was #1 that had that trashed bearing?

[bmwm3s65]

Originally Posted by RocketyMan

If it was me, I would've just paid circa $100 to just tow the vehicle to the dealership knowing if the bearings were trashed--but it's moot point.

From the pictures...your "1" bearing looks like it still has it's tang on the shell. Do you have pictures of the connecting rod surfaces? What about the cap for that bearing shell in question? What about the backside of the bearing itself? I'm curious of the condition of these...

It doesn't look like the bearing "welded" itself to the crank.

The worst journal looks to be the forward-most CR journal--which in that case would be cylinder #5. But you're saying it was #1 that had that trashed bearing?

The bearing did not get welded to the crank. it came right off when i pulled the cap. after comparing rod caps #1 and #2 it doesnt even look like it spun or didnt spin very much. it looks like #1 ran low on oil which why it was theorized that the #1 main must have failed. last picture is rod caps #1 and #2. #2 rod cap is the lower rodcap in that picture.

[RocketyMan]

Originally Posted by bmwm3s65

The bearing did not get welded to the crank. it came right off when i pulled the cap. after comparing rod caps #1 and #2 it doesnt even look like it spun or didnt spin very much. it looks like #1 ran low on oil which why it was theorized that the #1 main must have failed. last picture is rod caps #1 and #2. #2 rod cap is the lower rodcap in that picture.

Boom! Those are good pics! Good that the bearings didn't "weld" to the crank.

So then yes, I agree. That "cross-hatched" look is very typical on the bearing caps to signify it didn't spin...yet. It could very well be the lighting, but there MIGHT be some slight "bluing" from heat towards the end of the bearing cap. The lateral side-clearance between the two Con-rods is also pretty tight. So you'll get oil-pressure "bleed" from the neighboring CR until the boundary-layer pressure is exceeded by either centrifugal forces and/or pressure. This is why the Conrods are directional on "V" type engines as to accommodate the "fillet" on the crank, and then the side-clearance between the two neighboring Conrods.

The forward most main only supplies for CR #5 journal.

So if you have a compromised #2 main, then I would expect both CR 1&6 to have little to no oil flow.

[bmwm3s65]

I think i have 3 options at this point. Throw it away, sell it, or rebuild it. I really prefer not to throw it away. I already tried selling, it but no one wants to risk buying a paper weight and It would be hard to convince my wife to let me store it indefinitely and at some point spend another 20k+ to rebuild/stroke it. I think selling it or rebuilding both depend on the mains being good which is why i want to pull the bedplate and inspect the mains. Also i wanted to determine why I spun a bearing after replacing them.

[RocketyMan]

Get the S65 timing tool kit so you can undue the timing and remove the bedplate. It's not that spendy...and you'll know your answer for sure.

[bmwm3s65]

Originally Posted by RocketyMan

Get the S65 timing tool kit so you can undue the timing and remove the bedplate. It's not that spendy...and you'll know your answer for sure.

Will do, thanks. I will continue to update the thread with pictures as I take it apart.

[RocketyMan]

Originally Posted by bmwm3s65

Will do, thanks. I will continue to update the thread with pictures as I take it apart.

FCP euro has the tool for $232 with free shipping.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...l-kit-cta-2896


You will also need two little M5x10 allen bolts to lock the exhaust VANOS gear ant-rattle spring. That's about it for "special tools" to take the engine apart further.

[Peertwelve]

[QUOTE=RocketyMan;29800456]FCP euro has the tool for $232 with free shipping.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...l-kit-cta-2896


You will also need two little M5x10 allen bolts to lock the exhaust VANOS gear ant-rattle spring. That's about it for "special tools" to take the engine apart further.

Hey how would I find the manual in your screenshot above? Is that an emanualsonline vm?

[kolosy]

Originally Posted by Peertwelve

Hey how would I find the manual in your screenshot above? Is that an emanualsonline vm?

looks like an ISTA screenshot

[Assimilator1]

You could probably access that via BMWs TIS too, but it's not cheap!

[deansbimmer]

You can access BMW's TIS for a subscription fee. Pay $30 for a day, get what you need and save the pages to refer to them later.

[bmwm3s65]

Originally Posted by deansbimmer

You can access BMW's TIS for a subscription fee. Pay $30 for a day, get what you need and save the pages to refer to them later.

between your main bearing service documentation and BMW's TIS is it pretty straight forward to release the timing and pull the bedplate to inspect the mains for someone like me who has not done it before? I am just trying to determine if this engine is a coffee table or not.