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04-25-2021, 07:29 AM | #155 |
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So the dealership is recommending that I replace the thermostat housing, but not the thermostat? If 3-4 hours of labour is involved, do you think it's worth might as well replace the thermostat too?
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04-25-2021, 11:43 AM | #156 |
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Why do you need to replace thermostat housing? Do you have any codes, problems with the car?
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04-25-2021, 03:07 PM | #157 | |
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Are you sure they meant changing the housing only? Anyway, assuming the housing is damaged, unless the t/stat is really quite new, it would be bonkers not to change it whilst you're there! So yes, definitely worthwhile changing it too.
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04-26-2021, 06:19 AM | #158 | |
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Even if the thermostat was working fine, still sounds like it's worth replacing since they quoted 4.7 hours of labour to replace the housing.
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04-26-2021, 01:20 PM | #159 |
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Lol, they're having a laugh with that time!
I posted earlier with how long it took me the 1st and 2nd time (I cut an o-ring ), 1st time I took it slow, and was sorting out clips for the liner and undertray, as well as doing a full coolant drain (from the rad), that took 3-3.5 hrs. After finding a coolant leak at 3.45 pm (and the workshop closing at 5.30!), I rushed it (didn't drain off coolant, aside from header tank) and had it done by ~5.10! And on reassembling it the 2nd time (the plenum) my 7mm socket and UJ fell of my driver handle (after only the 2nd clip luckily) and I had to take the plenum off again! So I probably would've done it ~10mins quicker if that hadn't happened. I'd get a quote from a BMW inde if I were you, I bet they'll quote a lower time and price! [edit] Your car isn't supercharged, right?
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Oil analysis for finding wearing rod bearings?. Collation of oil analysis reports with some rod bearing photos for the M3's S65. My categorisation of pulled rod bearings in the rod bearing condition thread. My updated 'Blown engines' list. Last edited by Assimilator1; 04-26-2021 at 01:27 PM.. |
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07-14-2021, 02:16 PM | #160 |
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Hey thanks for the DIY, I followed it 2 years ago to replace my thermostat.
Since then, I've gotten 3 new codes yesterday: Fault code: 002AF9 Coolant temperature sensor Fault code: 002B59 Coolant thermostat monitoring Fault code: 002AFD Relative time plausibility Does this look like the temp. sensor? My car is taking longer than usual warming up to normal temps (only symptoms so far) and an increased emissions code |
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07-14-2021, 03:15 PM | #161 |
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Hmm, in my experience working on other cars, usually when a temp sensor fails it will go open circuit and so just fail completely, rather than give consistently low readings, but that isn't 100% sure by any means!
Is the heater taking longer to warm up too? Where are you located? ('location ca' doesn't mean anything to me I'm afraid). If you're in the summer, and despite the warmer ambient temps it's still taking longer than usual to blow hot then it would seem to be the thermostat's gone again! No idea why, unless it was a cheap one/unknown brand? Btw, you could do a resistance test of the CTS to see if it's in spec, that should confirm or eliminate it then.
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Oil analysis for finding wearing rod bearings?. Collation of oil analysis reports with some rod bearing photos for the M3's S65. My categorisation of pulled rod bearings in the rod bearing condition thread. My updated 'Blown engines' list. |
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08-02-2021, 02:20 PM | #162 | |
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I'm located in California so the weather is pretty good here. I've been driving the car since the problem and the overheating problem never came back. I had an emissions CEL on for about a couple days when I scanned those codes but that light went away as well, although the fault codes are still active on Carly. My plan is to change the coolant sensor when my part comes in. Would that be an advisable first step? If not what do you suggest? Thanks |
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08-02-2021, 02:33 PM | #163 |
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Overheating? You never mentioned that in your last post.
You said it was taking longer to warm up, which is it? If I had no signs of the engine running cold, or taking ages to heat up, my 1st step would be to measure the resistance of the CTS. Or with the engine stone cold (e.g laid up over night), either with Carly or via the hidden menu see what temperature the CTS is giving and whether that matches up with ambient temperature. Also using Carly, see how long it takes for the coolant to get fully warmed up when driving it (~85C, whatever that is in F ).
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02-01-2022, 03:57 PM | #164 |
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Thank you OP for this DIY!!! I got a code scanned by AutoZone today indicating the faulty thermostat (no other codes). After reading through this thread, I decided to replace the sensor as well. All parts ordered (ECS Tstat replacement kit, 4 extra o-rings, and sensor). I also plan to pick up the pump to syphon the coolant from the overflow reservoir. Most definitely be incorporating multiple tips and recommendations from everyone done this DIY replacement. For that, thank you very much!!! Should I come across anything unique (hopefully nothing bad), I'll be sure to return and share with this group.
BTW, I have some goodies on their way involving the plenum removal, this is somewhat timely, and I plan to knock them all out in one session. |
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04-30-2022, 07:48 PM | #166 |
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First off, thank you for the awesome DIY. I just tackled this and was able to siphon out about a gallon of coolant, inspect my water pump (saw it was good) and replaced the thermostat + sensor + o-rings.
I am a bit stuck though and looking for some help. I went to put my plenum back on and it seems 2 of the TB rubber gaskets got squished from me over tightening the clamps. Now I'm struggling to get the plenum to sit down as far as it should. I also saw people recommend testing for coolant leaks with the plenum off. So, I have 2 questions: 1) Once I fill the coolant back up, is there anything I need to install with the plenum removed in order to test? I'm assuming I should just have the car on in the garage and follow the coolant filling instructions with high heat for a few minutes? Just makes me nervous having the sensor off that plugs into the plenum. 2) In order to get the plenum to sit correctly, is it ok to use silicone lube on the gaskets? I have 2 of them with small pinches and I have a feeling it's getting caught on those with no lube. Or what would be the appropriate lubricant to use on them? Thanks for the help! Again, awesome DIY! |
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05-02-2022, 02:21 PM | #167 | |
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05-02-2022, 02:30 PM | #168 | |
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Bimmerworld has them for a few bucks less: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Rubber-I...V8-E9X-M3.html
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05-02-2022, 10:48 PM | #169 | |
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05-03-2022, 02:16 PM | #170 |
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That's bonkers!
Might be cheaper to have specialists make them??
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05-03-2022, 02:25 PM | #171 |
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05-06-2022, 05:40 AM | #172 |
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Could an appropriate rubber be 3d printed??
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05-03-2023, 02:50 PM | #173 |
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Anyone has a link to 100% silicone lube they're using on t-stat/ o-rings to have it slide in perfect and not cause issues?
Secondly, on coolant mix... can I just use pre mixed Prestone that applies to all cars e.g. this guy I have sitting in the garage (I believe its green but mixes with other coolants). https://ca.prestone.com/product/pres...-ready-to-use/ |
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05-05-2023, 04:18 PM | #174 | |
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05-06-2023, 11:25 AM | #175 |
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Why not use that coolant?
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06-21-2023, 10:19 PM | #176 |
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I just did my t-stat amd sensor this week. Only drained the colant from the reservoir, placed a thick towel under the three connecting tubes (one small one to reservoir and two large tubes), and disconnected the them. Spilled about half cup of coolant from the housing. No mess at all. Used the silicone lub spray which I picked up from Walmart ($7.50?). This was so much easier job than I had anticipated. Refilled the reservoir with just about 1 gallon (pretty much what I pumped out from the reservoir). Drove around, waited for the engine to cool down, checked the coolant level, and refilled half cup of the coolant mix. All good!
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