Track forum general chit chat.

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by butte2butte

My advice to anyone still on wheel bolts is, either make the jump to press in's (if your hubs look good and bearings are tight/low miles it's really not that expensive for just bolts/nuts) or stay on wheel bolts until you can make the jump. I'll risk running original rod bearings, I'll risk driving at 10/10ths on slick tires with no TC on, but I can't justify wheel fasteners coming loose.

Same boat.

[DRLane]

@gills You're blowing up

[slowdown_dan]

Tom deserves all the orders that come his way. Great product, great customer service.

[Exclusivs]

Originally Posted by butte2butte

fwiw, I was going to wait a full years worth of track days to replace them, but changing wheels I found 3 different studs that came loose at different times over the course of a month or so, while others on the same hub were still locked in. My install involved cleaning the threads in the hubs with a wire brush on my drill, the same amount of loctite per stud and torqued all the same, at the same time.

The black friday sale was the push I needed to take care of that issue and move to 14mm press in on brand new hubs.

Basically identical situation.
To clarify, did you use blue/or red? What studs, and on fronts or rears?

[slowdown_dan]

red loctite, turner studs, 75mm on front and rear. Swapped them for 90x14mm studs pressed into brand new hubs through Core4, and picked up new ARP hub bolts as well as rear wheel bearings, clips and nuts to complete the installation.

[okusa]

Originally Posted by redpriest

Why are you replacing perfectly good studs with Core4 hubs? Wait until your wheel falls off until you replace.

That was my attitude until a broken stud ended a day. So, I made the switch to Core4 al around.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by butte2butte

red loctite, turner studs, 75mm on front and rear. Swapped them for 90x14mm studs pressed into brand new hubs through Core4, and picked up new ARP hub bolts as well as rear wheel bearings, clips and nuts to complete the installation.

I have a front pressed in 14mm F80, but for the rear I have the F80 14mm studs. Anyway, what I do is use plenty of blue rather than a bit of red.

FWIW

[Bimmer Barney]

Had a great day at LS. Set a PR and most importantly was very consistent and smooth. Now just to add pace. Need to add pace in Turn 3,5,6

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by redpriest

Why are you replacing perfectly good studs with Core4 hubs? Wait until your wheel falls off until you replace.

Shots fired

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by okusa

That was my attitude until a broken stud ended a day. So, I made the switch to Core4 al around.

I've only ever had a stud break on me once, and fortunately, it was when I was swapping wheels to end the day. I'd also pushed it pretty far and had something like 20 track days on the same set of studs at the time it broke.

I don't doubt the efficacy of the Core4 solution, but not having a new set of studs is not going to mean your car is going to have a wheel pop off and end up crashing the car.

I've never met anyone who had a wheel pop off on the track unless they were using some replica wheel.

[fanatic1]

One broke on removal at Chuckwalla when changing wheels. Two more broke upon removal for replacement. All three were on the rear axle 14mm F82. MSI about 16 months old and all broke approximately the same location. Too much fun trying to remove a broken stud - flush with the hub, x3.

Press in Core4 14mm solution next mod

[evilspiritM3]

1000% not worth the debate about cost/effort to go with the Core4 14mm press in set up.

Literally didn't even think about it after I lost my front left wheel due to broken 12mm thread ins on turn 3 at BW. 3 wheeling into the dirt at low-ish speed felt very, very lucky.

[redpriest]

Okay, well you've convinced me to do this sooner rather later. I'm always open to changing my mind.

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by Exclusivs

Honestly, until now CORE4 was something to think of as an "eventual" down the road thing. I guess, until you have this happen (insanely lucky I suppose) - then you realize what your playing with here. And a wheel falling off, is not in the formula redpriest. Sorry, I want to be lighthearted about it but can't recall a time I ever got spooked thinking about the holy sh*t, what if...

Well, it *was* a joke about doing unnecessary maintenance at dparm 's expense

I've only broken a stud once, but all the anecdotes got to me. Plus the fact that I'm putting on brand new Pirellis for Chuckwalla and ... well. Shit.

[leftfootbr8king]

Can I get a quick sway bar lesson? I'm moving to ohlins dedicated track that are sprung 700f 1000r (give or take a few lbs) with front monoballs and spherical/camber arm/subframe rear bushings.

Car is 80% track 20% street. Which sway bar/endlink set up do I want?

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king

Can I get a quick sway bar lesson? I'm moving to ohlins dedicated track that are sprung 700f 1000r (give or take a few lbs) with front monoballs and spherical/camber arm/subframe rear bushings.

Car is 80% track 20% street. Which sway bar/endlink set up do I want?

On those springs probably safe with stock bars. But get adjustable end links to properly corner balance. I'll defer to others.

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king

Can I get a quick sway bar lesson? I'm moving to ohlins dedicated track that are sprung 700f 1000r (give or take a few lbs) with front monoballs and spherical/camber arm/subframe rear bushings.

Car is 80% track 20% street. Which sway bar/endlink set up do I want?

I ran a stock bars for awhile, it was fine but ultimately swapped to a stiffer front bar to improve some handling, I installed it with stock endlinks temporarily and then measured to get the desired length I wanted.

[Bartledoo]

Drove a GT350 (/Rish) with some decent mods, on GY SC3R at The Ridge for ten minutes today since the M3 is still down. They are pretty nice. The sound is definitely not as good as the M3 though. Felt so good to drive again, but I want my car ugh

[rhyary]

Has anyone ran into this code and have ideas how to remedy?

What I am specifically looking for is knowledge if this is not what is actually wrong. The reason to my asking is that this code was not showing up on my trackday tune, but this is on my street tune.

[leftfootbr8king]

Originally Posted by Kelse92

I ran a stock bars for awhile, it was fine but ultimately swapped to a stiffer front bar to improve some handling, I installed it with stock endlinks temporarily and then measured to get the desired length I wanted.

And you're happy with the front bar and adj links? No desire to go back to stock? You're on KWCS right? What spring rates?

[sbo76]

Originally Posted by redpriest

I've only ever had a stud break on me once, and fortunately, it was when I was swapping wheels to end the day. I'd also pushed it pretty far and had something like 20 track days on the same set of studs at the time it broke.

I don't doubt the efficacy of the Core4 solution, but not having a new set of studs is not going to mean your car is going to have a wheel pop off and end up crashing the car.

I've never met anyone who had a wheel pop off on the track unless they were using some replica wheel.

I had three studs sheer while on track. It felt like something was wrong with the brakes or a wheel bent. Luckily I was braking going into a 45 degree turn into the straight away. As I was turning at about 30-40 mph the entire wheel came off and I went off track (I was heading to the pit soi was going slower than normal) . If I would have been on the straight the wheel would have come off at 100+ mph - scary to say the least. No major damage and everyone was okay. Dodged a bullet there!

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king

And you're happy with the front bar and adj links? No desire to go back to stock? You're on KWCS right? What spring rates?

Yup! I have KW CS on 680f/800r springs and Hotchkiss front bar. Car probably is a little over-sprung in the front but I really like the sharp turn-in the car has right now even with the sacrifice of the car being a little pushy mid-corner.
If I had a do-over though I would probably try the Ohlins new “dedicated track” setup which looks like a nice 1-way adjustable for the price and a step-up from the R&T and can probably easily be custom valved.