Track forum general chit chat.

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by macdude357

Just crossed the 110k mile mark on my car. Been tracking it for 5 years. Thinking about proactively replacing the fuel injectors. Anyone else done this? How were the injectors when you removed them?

You know I worry about this too given that I'm at 175k miles and frequent engine killer problems I've seen other than rod bearings are:

Main bearing
Stuck fuel injectors

[slowdown_dan]

I can't understand why there would be an issue with installing brand new injectors, and can only see up sides. Maybe dparm can enlighten us.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by butte2butte

I can't understand why there would be an issue with installing brand new injectors, and can only see up sides. Maybe dparm can enlighten us.

It's $380 (FCP) and pretty cheap as far as preventative maintenance goes. Some people spend more than that on a tire.

It's on my TODO list in the future, after valve cover gaskets or valve covers.

[b4hand]

Originally Posted by butte2butte

I can't understand why there would be an issue with installing brand new injectors, and can only see up sides. Maybe dparm can enlighten us.

dparm is saying it's unnecessary. A stuck injector is even less common than main bearing failures from what I can see.

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by Kelse92

Must be a difference in ride height for us. I've got the car only 10mm below ZCP height. Only rubbing I have found so far on the 35 tire is the inside front part of the fender liner from the sidewall of the tires on both sides but not touching the fuel filler at all.
There's an e90 around here running 315 A052 square with cut front fenders, I think on an M4-Gt4 wheel, whatever offset that is it might be an 18x10.5

Wow, 315 A052 on a 10.5 must be so muffin topped.

[leftfootbr8king]

Originally Posted by b4hand

dparm is saying it's unnecessary. A stuck injector is even less common than main bearing failures from what I can see.

I'm not "worried" about a stuck injector. I'm adding a flex fuel kit and want the injectors to be spraying at 100% of their capacity. Also, while I'm installing FF it seems like a decent time to pull and replace the injectors that it's clipping into. Again, it's 160 bucks. You can barely get a fill of 10w60 oil and a filter for that price.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by butte2butte

I can't understand why there would be an issue with installing brand new injectors, and can only see up sides. Maybe dparm can enlighten us.

LOL my point is that replacing a part which functions perfectly is a waste of money. I don't know what injectors cost, plus your time and aggravation to do it, but what else could you have done with that money?

[leftfootbr8king]

I could ensure that asking 14 year old injectors to spray 50% more fuel at 8400 rpm doesn't grenade my freshly rod bearing'd engine. (Sad face)

For 160 dollars. And maybe .5 to 1 full additional hour of my time.

I'm a wild and crazy guy though.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king

I could ensure that asking 14 year old injectors to spray 50% more fuel at 8400 rpm doesn't grenade my freshly rod bearing'd engine. (Sad face)

For 160 dollars. And maybe .5 to 1 full additional hour of my time.

I'm a wild and crazy guy though.

I guess $160 isn't too bad. If you're doing mods that need it, then yeah maybe replacement is a good idea. I must have missed that above.

I don't consider it a preventative maintenance thing to do on a normal car. Wait until it shows signs of failing and then deal with it.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by dparm

I guess $160 isn't too bad. If you're doing mods that need it, then yeah maybe replacement is a good idea. I must have missed that above.

I don't consider it a preventative maintenance thing to do on a normal car. Wait until it shows signs of failing and then deal with it.

@dparm
Doing only what necessary will collapse a whole after market industry.

You may be getting hate PMs.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by rhyary

@dparm
Doing only what necessary will collapse a whole after market industry.

You may be getting hate PMs.

Nah, just use the money to buy Hoosiers and pay for seat time/coaching.

[LeveragedTiger]

Originally Posted by dparm

Nah, just use the money to buy Hoosiers and pay for seat time/coaching.

In the car world, a penny saved is just a penny spent somewhere else.

[Exclusivs]

File this under spooked;

Normal ritual looking over car after great weekend at Buttonwillow & found a rear wheel stud I could thread out by hand?!!!

New Turner studs installed before the trip, using red loctite and cleaned existing old threads with brake clean and let cure 24hrs.

Checked a couple others on both rears and 2 others were able to be cracked with only hand tools. Spooky

The only thing I can think; is I was very light with the application of red loctite. (In fact it wasn't even loctite / but an "equivalent" sent from ECS).

So now what?
Remove all rear studs - clean - reapply loctite in a more generous manor?

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Exclusivs

So now what?

Replace with Core4 hubs that have pressed-in studs.

[fsmtnbiker]

Speaking of Core4, I discovered a broken front wheel stud when I unloaded the car after I got home from COTA. Had to have happened in the very last session as I had just swapped wheels and tires midday... No more thread-in studs for me. Not interested in worrying about that while going 150+ mph on the straightaway. Ordered the full car setup of 14mm press-in, bearings, etc.

The studs in the car were new less than 6 months/10 events ago and are Bimmerworld Premium Race studs. Both times I have put Hoosiers on the car (even for a single session) I've found a front wheel stud broken shortly after.

[slowdown_dan]

Core4 or nothing. I wouldn't even wait till you find a loose/broken stud. Keeping the wheels on the car is *THEE* most important thing.

[Exclusivs]

Originally Posted by dparm

Replace with Core4 hubs that have pressed-in studs.

Originally Posted by fsmtnbiker

Speaking of Core4, I discovered a broken front wheel stud when I unloaded the car after I got home from COTA. Had to have happened in the very last session as I had just swapped wheels and tires midday... No more thread-in studs for me. Not interested in worrying about that while going 150+ mph on the straightaway. Ordered the full car setup of 14mm press-in, bearings, etc.

The studs in the car were new less than 6 months/10 events ago and are Bimmerworld Premium Race studs. Both times I have put Hoosiers on the car (even for a single session) I've found a front wheel stud broken shortly after.

Originally Posted by butte2butte

Core4 or nothing. I wouldn't even wait till you find a loose/broken stud. Keeping the wheels on the car is *THEE* most important thing.

Spooky and ironic, thanks gents for chiming in on this one. Like fsmtnbiker I am really not interested in even the doubt in my mind of having a stud coming loose on long straights, even at 120MPH! Jeez, I thought the move to CORE4 could be an off-season type project...but now, I am a bit rattled.

[redpriest]

Why are you replacing perfectly good studs with Core4 hubs? Wait until your wheel falls off until you replace.

[Exclusivs]

Originally Posted by dparm

Replace with Core4 hubs that have pressed-in studs.

Originally Posted by fsmtnbiker

Speaking of Core4, I discovered a broken front wheel stud when I unloaded the car after I got home from COTA. Had to have happened in the very last session as I had just swapped wheels and tires midday... No more thread-in studs for me. Not interested in worrying about that while going 150+ mph on the straightaway. Ordered the full car setup of 14mm press-in, bearings, etc.

The studs in the car were new less than 6 months/10 events ago and are Bimmerworld Premium Race studs. Both times I have put Hoosiers on the car (even for a single session) I've found a front wheel stud broken shortly after.

Originally Posted by butte2butte

Core4 or nothing. I wouldn't even wait till you find a loose/broken stud. Keeping the wheels on the car is *THEE* most important thing.

Originally Posted by redpriest

Why are you replacing perfectly good studs with Core4 hubs? Wait until your wheel falls off until you replace.

Honestly, until now CORE4 was something to think of as an "eventual" down the road thing. I guess, until you have this happen (insanely lucky I suppose) - then you realize what your playing with here. And a wheel falling off, is not in the formula redpriest. Sorry, I want to be lighthearted about it but can't recall a time I ever got spooked thinking about the holy sh*t, what if...

[slowdown_dan]

fwiw, I was going to wait a full years worth of track days to replace them, but changing wheels I found 3 different studs that came loose at different times over the course of a month or so, while others on the same hub were still locked in. My install involved cleaning the threads in the hubs with a wire brush on my drill, the same amount of loctite per stud and torqued all the same, at the same time.

The black friday sale was the push I needed to take care of that issue and move to 14mm press in on brand new hubs.

[slowdown_dan]

My advice to anyone still on wheel bolts is, either make the jump to press in's (if your hubs look good and bearings are tight/low miles it's really not that expensive for just bolts/nuts) or stay on wheel bolts until you can make the jump. I'll risk running original rod bearings, I'll risk driving at 10/10ths on slick tires with no TC on, but I can't justify wheel fasteners coming loose.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by redpriest

Why are you replacing perfectly good studs with Core4 hubs? Wait until your wheel falls off until you replace.

I feel personally attacked