Track forum general chit chat.

[Move Over]

Originally Posted by dparm

Surprised to hear the SS 1LE was such a let down, but welcome back.

I wouldn't call it a let down, it was a great car, set many PB's in that car at several of my fav tracks. Just lacked soul, did everything for you type of car. I also wanted something i wouldn't feel so guilty tearing apart

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by Move Over

Hey M3P track guys - I sold my E90 a few years back and have had an E46 m3, c6 z06, SS1LE, and am now back to an E92 m3 that I plan to build into a full track car. I bought M3MPH1S's (member on here) m3 and it was inexpensive enough to pull all the interior out and not feel bad about it!

The SS1le was an absolute beast and fun to drive but just lacked the soul that these M3's have. They are also pretty heavy and are losing value FAST. I sold it due to a lack of driving it. I wasn't planning on getting another car, but when I saw his I could not pass it up.

Just wanted to say what's up, and really nice to be back with an S65 as i loooove this motor. Always been a 6 pedal or no pedal guy, but went DCT this time around, seems like the faster trans around a track. I've spent a bunch of time driving in champ car, nasa TT and doing some shifter karting the last few years. I have become friends with a couple of pro IMSA drivers (the Taylor brothers) and have learned a ton from them on our karting days. So i'm excited on being back into this chassis and seeing how it performs after way more experience behind a wheel.

Welcome back!

[bigjae1976]

First attempt at carbon fiber vacuum infusion. I made a panel made of carbon fiber. Not perfect but good enough since it will be a gauge panel.

It is has a red 2x2 top layer, 4mm soric core and a plain weave bottom layer. It's pretty light and super stiff. Can't even flex it a little bit. It's overkill...lesson learned.

Someday I'll make a CF roof and hood for my e46.

[roastbeef]

looks great. did you use any specific starter kit, or did you piece it all together yourself?

[kyippee]

Originally Posted by tsk94

I used the AR-1's on my previous track car, a 135i that weighed 3400lbs - so not light. I'm currently using RR's on my E92 track car. I have no direct comparison using both on the same car though. Overall I prefer the RR's. The AR1's to me felt like a very fast street tire, the RR's feel more like a typical R-compound.
For wet running with substantial standing water though, I'd take the Nankangs. I thought they performed very well in the wet. RR's are good in the wet up until the point of standing water - no tread so they hydroplane much easier.

I found the RR's to be a bit quicker then the NT01's with a similar feel - they seem to like a bit less slip angle compared to the Nittos. If you've ran NT01's before you know they are their quickest when worn down to when there is only two circumferential grooves. The RR's are essentially this their entire life, and hold up and wear just as well as the NT01's. They are slower than equivalent 40TW tires like Hoosiers and R1's - but last MUCH longer and do not heat cycle out.

Thanks to you and dparm - Toyo RR will be my next set to try. Will be killing off my AR-1 at Buttonwillow this weekend. I hope they're good enough for me to set a good PB at Laguna. Last PB was on NT01, so I should be able to! 103 dB day, time to get it.

Any tips on cold/hot pressures?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Move Over

Oof, that's a kick in the nuts price-wise lol. I'll definitely look into it!

Expensive but it's the only solution that actually does anything

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Move Over

Hey M3P track guys - I sold my E90 a few years back and have had an E46 m3, c6 z06, SS1LE, and am now back to an E92 m3 that I plan to build into a full track car. I bought M3MPH1S's (member on here) m3 and it was inexpensive enough to pull all the interior out and not feel bad about it!

The SS1le was an absolute beast and fun to drive but just lacked the soul that these M3's have. They are also pretty heavy and are losing value FAST. I sold it due to a lack of driving it. I wasn't planning on getting another car, but when I saw his I could not pass it up.

Just wanted to say what's up, and really nice to be back with an S65 as i loooove this motor. Always been a 6 pedal or no pedal guy, but went DCT this time around, seems like the faster trans around a track. I've spent a bunch of time driving in champ car, nasa TT and doing some shifter karting the last few years. I have become friends with a couple of pro IMSA drivers (the Taylor brothers) and have learned a ton from them on our karting days. So i'm excited on being back into this chassis and seeing how it performs after way more experience behind a wheel.

Glad you're back!

These cars are so damn fun to track!!

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by kyippee

Thanks to you and dparm - Toyo RR will be my next set to try. Will be killing off my AR-1 at Buttonwillow this weekend. I hope they're good enough for me to set a good PB at Laguna. Last PB was on NT01, so I should be able to! 103 dB day, time to get it.

Any tips on cold/hot pressures?

I did my second best time on RR with the narrow 235/35/19 on the front. R7 was faster, either because it is available in 265/35/19 or it is just a faster tire.

The narrow RR was faster than all the 275/30/19 and 265/35/19 200 and 100 tread.

On the first warm up session I was already at 1:37, where as with the 200 and 100 tires I labored at 1:38

I think you will like them at half the cost of R7

I tried pressure from 34 hot to 40 hot. It did not make much difference in lap time but at 34 it was not good for the sidewall.

My recommendation is 38 hot. Typically at 30psi at the paddock, you will be up to 38 at a technical track. On a fast open layout track may want to start at 32.

My 2 cents. YMMV

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by CorruptCommie

dave@racecoach.net

Thank you.
I am in communication with Dave

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

Racers360. They have a full compliment of services.

Thank You.
I got a session with Race360 and he was very helpful with tangible suggestions that I can work on next track day

[dparm]

Originally Posted by kyippee

Thanks to you and dparm - Toyo RR will be my next set to try. Will be killing off my AR-1 at Buttonwillow this weekend. I hope they're good enough for me to set a good PB at Laguna. Last PB was on NT01, so I should be able to! 103 dB day, time to get it.

Any tips on cold/hot pressures?

I haven't used the RR yet. Give Toyo a call and ask for their technical expertise on pressures.

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by kyippee

Thanks to you and dparm - Toyo RR will be my next set to try. Will be killing off my AR-1 at Buttonwillow this weekend. I hope they're good enough for me to set a good PB at Laguna. Last PB was on NT01, so I should be able to! 103 dB day, time to get it.

Any tips on cold/hot pressures?

I've been running hot pressures of 33-34 - starting cold at ~28 then bleed down after first session as they'll come way up. Monitor how much the tire is rolling over via the sidewall indicators and adjust accordingly.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by dparm

I haven't used the RR yet. Give Toyo a call and ask for their technical expertise on pressures.

I did :-)

[//steve\\]

For those of you that have done an upgraded DCT cooler at home yourself, any special process to follow given that you'll be having to add some fluid. I know I don't entirely understand how the system all works together. Is there a thermostat of some kind that controls when fluid flows through the cooler or does it at all times?

I'm going to be actually working backwards, pulling my trans cooler to put OE back. My car is 6MT and I just don't see the need for it. Happy to let someone that could actually benefit from it save a few $$ from buying new.

I'm a DIY guy, just not sure if there is any special process really needed. I feel like I've heard of needing ISTA to be able to enable the pump, but then others that have said it's not quite necessary.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by //steve\\

For those of you that have done an upgraded DCT cooler at home yourself, any special process to follow given that you'll be having to add some fluid. I know I don't entirely understand how the system all works together. Is there a thermostat of some kind that controls when fluid flows through the cooler or does it at all times?

I'm going to be actually working backwards, pulling my trans cooler to put OE back. My car is 6MT and I just don't see the need for it. Happy to let someone that could actually benefit from it save a few $$ from buying new.

I'm a DIY guy, just not sure if there is any special process really needed. I feel like I've heard of needing ISTA to be able to enable the pump, but then others that have said it's not quite necessary.

I did it at home

You just add fluid to the cooler, then connect it.
If you're also doing a dct fluid flush or changing the pan to a larger one you just follow the gts fill procedure and you're good to go

No need for any coding/software

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I did it at home

You just add fluid to the cooler, then connect it.
If you're also doing a dct fluid flush or changing the pan to a larger one you just follow the gts fill procedure and you're good to go

No need for any coding/software

He says he has 6MT

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by rhyary

He says he has 6MT

Agreed, but he's asking about the dct fill procedure

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by //steve\\

For those of you that have done an upgraded DCT cooler at home yourself, any special process to follow given that you'll be having to add some fluid. I know I don't entirely understand how the system all works together. Is there a thermostat of some kind that controls when fluid flows through the cooler or does it at all times?

I'm going to be actually working backwards, pulling my trans cooler to put OE back. My car is 6MT and I just don't see the need for it. Happy to let someone that could actually benefit from it save a few $$ from buying new.

I'm a DIY guy, just not sure if there is any special process really needed. I feel like I've heard of needing ISTA to be able to enable the pump, but then others that have said it's not quite necessary.

There is a thermostat on the DCT (I think it's on the drivers side output) that determines the use of the front passenger side heat exchanger. This is why the fluid needs to be up to a certain temp when filling.
Disclaimer- I've never done it, I'm repeating info I've seen/read.

[dparm]

What do you guys think? Had Finspeed mock up the F50 on my car before placing the order. These would be for street and wet track days, and the Forgelines would be for dry track.

[roastbeef]

They look great.

[//steve\\]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I did it at home

You just add fluid to the cooler, then connect it.
If you're also doing a dct fluid flush or changing the pan to a larger one you just follow the gts fill procedure and you're good to go

No need for any coding/software

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Agreed, but he's asking about the dct fill procedure

I'm actually asking if the process would be any different for a 6MT car. Cooler generally isn't something people do on the 6MT cars because it's deemed unnecessary but the previous owner of my car did it anyways. Half the OE cooler is already blocked from the factory so even just removing the blocking gives you twice the airflow through the factory part so that's good enough for me.

So in short my car is a 6MT with do88 trans cooler that I'm looking to remove and put the factory part back in. I know for starters I'll need a little less fluid.

My plan unless someone has any other ideas was to just pre-fill the cooler as much as possible and then follow the normal trans fluid procedure, take it for a short/slow spin around the block and bring it back home to check fluid level and add/top off if needed.

[Move Over]

Anyone interested in a group buy for the Slon workshop DCT pan??

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Slon-Worksh...-/174166200811

He mentioned it will all be done through eBay, (hit that paypal credit button), and for 5+ would be $970, 10+ would be $870.

List price is $1195.

Please message me if you are interested so I can compile a list. Thank you!