DIY rod bearing swap, trans fluid change, and more. Questions before I begin!

[Doc Oc]

Not only would I swap tranny fluid, I'd also replace the transmission mounts, especially if you are replacing the motor mounts. Did my fluid and mounts (but no filters) a couple months ago and noticed an immediate difference. Shifting was smoother, especially downshifts on decel, and the occasional clunk I'd get going into 2 coming to a stop is gone. Unfortunately I don't know if it was the mounts or fluid or combo of both.

[Strick]

How much of a pain are the trans mounts? Also, have a part #? I can't seem to find anything here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=22_0109

[Doc Oc]

Ecs tuning stocks them....about 17 bucks each. Need 2 obviously. Install is a breeze....I did both in 45 minutes never having done it before. Remember to support the tranny with a jack but other than that it is very easy to look at them and see how the job is done. Megan racing also offers a kit with upgraded, matching motor and tranny mounts.

[Strick]

Going to do the bearings tomorrow, will report back. As I'm preparing and doing some last minute research I've gotten curious as to the best way to bump the motor so I can get access to all of the bearings. Car is a DCT, so it's not as simple as leaving it in gear and turning the rear wheel. Don't think there is a bolt I can use inside the dampener either. Suggestions?

[pbonsalb]

Use the crank bolt at the crank pulley. I forget the size.

[Strick]

Anybody else know what size the crank bolt is?

[Strick]

Over 8 hours today I managed to get all the bearings replaced. Still have to finish a few odds and ends before the first fire, but everything went as well as I could have hoped!

I'll get into more of a how-to later, but just wanted to touch on a few key points.

1) Using a 4 post lift made this SO EASY. I loved having the moveable center jacks to raise lower the sub frame.




2) Driver's motor mount was completely OBLITERATED.




3) Used VAC bearings with ARP hardware. Installed and ready to clean up the gasket surfaces and pan goes back up (my god the pan bolts are annoying).



4) Now the money shots. Wear isn't as bad as I would have guessed, didn't quite make it down to the copper on the top shells, bottoms look great actually, nice even wear pattern. Disregard gouges as I threw them into a box after removed and labeled. Crank journals were in great shape with zero sign of any wear.

[VictorH]

Nice work. You're not saying the whole job was 8 hours are you? How much time did you spend in prep prior to removing the oil pan?

What type of engine support did you use and where did you get it?

Again, congrats. I'm sure you feel a nice sense of accomplishment.

[Strick]

Whole job took 10 hours with a lunch break.

[Whit45]

Nice job Strick! It would be much appreciated if you could write up a DIY on the procedure. Nice to know that this procedure can be accomplished with basic tools and a lift.

[Cbozz]

Originally Posted by Strick

Whole job took 10 hours with a lunch break.

what TQ did you use to tighten the bearings?
DIY please we need it!
did you check the clearance of bearings in any way?

[Whit45]

From what I have read from the shops that have done this procedure, is that there is no accurate way to measure the clearance unless you pull the motor, and remove the crank.

[Strick]

Originally Posted by Whit45

Nice job Strick! It would be much appreciated if you could write up a DIY on the procedure. Nice to know that this procedure can be accomplished with basic tools and a lift.

Hope I'm able to do this! I used the guides already available on this forum from other members. They are fairly straight forward, if you don't understand them then this probably is not a job you want to DIY your first go around. That being said if you have a good mechanical understanding of an engine don't let the job intimidate you, it's easy. Just work CLEAN.

[Strick]

Originally Posted by Cbozz

what TQ did you use to tighten the bearings?
DIY please we need it!
did you check the clearance of bearings in any way?

I torqued to 45ft/lbs in 3 increments, (20/30/45). This is hardware dependent obviously. VAC recomended their bearings be used with ARP2000 hardware which ARP makes for them specifically.

The only way to really check clearances with engine not torn down is with Plastigauge. I checked clearances on two of the bearings to make sure clearances were what I was expecting ~.002

[Strick]

Update: Got everything together today and all went smoothly except one thing. There is always that ONE thing that goes wrong. -- I broke the plastic nipple off of the top rad hose @ the radiator putting the fan back in. BE CAREFUL REMOVING/INSTALLING FAN!

Tried to epoxy it, no go. So fingers crossed my dealership has that in stock or can get me one tomorrow. To make the short (10 mile) drive home I capped the broken nipple and overflow tank line.

I've gotta say this much, my bearings looked nowhere near what I was expecting them to from the noise/oil burn off I was getting. Almost feel like I got lucky. I absolutely had a tick (sometimes bad) on my bottom end prior to replacement. Afterwords she purrs like a kitten. No odd knocks/ticks on startup or at any point. Only valve train noise which is music to my ears! Idles much smoother. RPM's seem to "float" a little more if that makes any sense. Almost as if there is less load on the motor. Sounds beautiful once again. Literally like a new motor. Oil temp runs cooler as well.

PS - Having functional motor mounts is cool too hah! Drivers side came out in two pieces, passanger was severly cracked as well. No more drivetrain "slop", nice and tight again.

Short drive home had zero issues, kept it in D3 and drove conservatively. I don't think it saw more than a gradual 3500RPM.

Can't wait to get this coolant fiasco sorted out, I WANT TO DRIVE IT!

[pbonsalb]

The fan is a delicate job to install and remove. It is too bad they did not design the radiator with 1/2 inch more clearance so the fan could more or less slide in and out.

[Strick]

110% agreed. The car is engineered so well and is honestly a joy to work on for the most part. Can't understand where their heads where at on this one. I'm assuming it was a carry over from another chassis and was made to work on ours.

Do you think it's OK to commute to work tomorrow (10 mi each way) with the nipple/overflow tank capped until I can get a new one from the dealer?

Temps were cooler than I've had in a long while on the trip home.

[pbonsalb]

Loosen expansion tank cap enough that no pressure is likely to build. It would like to return via the small hose and I assume it is the return for that you capped. Turn on the heater to help pull heat fro the system. Keep the rpm low and dont drive hard. I doubt you will run hot enough to need the added anti boiling from pressurizing the coolant but i honestly dont know the normal operating temp of these motors. You could watch on an obd2 scan tool if you have one. 50/50 coolant/water wont start to boil over until a little past 220F unpressurized. I think engine thermo is about 175F (wont see that kind of low temp on a new car due to emissions) so you should have some room for gentle driving but hopefully with airflow and not stop and go heavy traffic.

[admranger]

Great job! Can't wait for the write up.

[kaiv]

Great work OP!

[Cbozz]

Originally Posted by Strick

I torqued to 45ft/lbs in 3 increments, (20/30/45). This is hardware dependent obviously. VAC recomended their bearings be used with ARP2000 hardware which ARP makes for them specifically.

The only way to really check clearances with engine not torn down is with Plastigauge. I checked clearances on two of the bearings to make sure clearances were what I was expecting ~.002

we definitely want a DIY!!!!
props for doing it! I really want to get some WPC treated bearing in too just a little weary about ripping the guts out! what did all that end up costing you?
I guess bearings with APR bolts go for around ~900 together?

[Strick]

900 for bearings and ARP hardware. Another 200 or so for pan gasket/oil/filter. You can DIY for around 1100 after all is said and done