ESS VT3 - LC built engine failure in 2,000 miles

[BobS]

Originally Posted by regular guy

Such as?

Whatever company that has a solution for his power goals.

[regular guy]

Originally Posted by BobS

Whatever company that has a solution for his power goals.

Back to the same question: such as?

[Petros]

Originally Posted by regular guy

Back to the same question: such as?

Such as this

[BobS]

Originally Posted by regular guy

Back to the same question: such as?

Since I'm not the OP and I have no idea what his power goals are...I'm not the right person to answer that

[regular guy]

Originally Posted by BobS

Since I'm not the OP and I have no idea what his power goals are...I'm not the right person to answer that

Bob, I just don't see the mystery here. The OP originally built a VT3 because his power goal was VT3 power. Let's call that 700whp. He rebuilt the engine to the same exact specs. Based on that fact alone, I think it's a pretty safe assumption that his power goals are the same as they were before.

Maybe you missed that part of the thread. I don't know. I assumed you saw it because it was right there in the open. So when you asked why he didn't go with a completely different set up, I assumed you had something in mind for that same power level and I was curious what it was. I'm still curious.

[BobS]

Originally Posted by regular guy

Bob, I just don't see the mystery here. The OP originally built a VT3 because his power goal was VT3 power. Let's call that 700whp. He rebuilt the engine to the same exact specs. Based on that fact alone, I think it's a pretty safe assumption that his power goals are the same as they were before.

Maybe you missed that part of the thread. I don't know. I assumed you saw it because it was right there in the open. So when you asked why he didn't go with a completely different set up, I assumed you had something in mind for that same power level and I was curious what it was. I'm still curious.

It seems like your looking into my comment as if there is some meaning behind it.... There isn't. I just found it odd to create a thread about the dissatisfaction with a companies product and then still use that product after (from what the OP says) there was little to no help from that company.

I'm sure there are other companies that offer a kit with "VT3 like" power. I haven't really looked into it because I only researched kits around 600-625 bhp. Just from reading the forums I know the three players with higher hp SC kits are ESS, AA and gintani but I don't know much about them or thier reliability.

[filinm3]

Originally Posted by BobS

I know what the VT3 is, i was just confused as to why you stayed with ESS if you had so many issues. I would think you would have gone with a completely different setup all together.

The task was to fix the issues and get the car repaired. VT3 is good for DD

Next step for my car is TT

[regular guy]

Originally Posted by BobS

It seems like your looking into my comment as if there is some meaning behind it.... There isn't. I just found it odd to create a thread about the dissatisfaction with a companies product and then still use that product after (from what the OP says) there was little to no help from that company.

No Bob, I don't think there's anything behind it. I was just trying to get you to think a little about what you were saying.

I'm sure there are other companies that offer a kit with "VT3 like" power. I haven't really looked into it because I only researched kits around 600-625 bhp. Just from reading the forums I know the three players with higher hp SC kits are ESS, AA and gintani but I don't know much about them or thier reliability.

Drew's car is the only VT3 level performance that has run for a long period of time and is still running. I'm well aware that others were built, but all of them are either no longer running or disappeared from the face of the earth (which usually means no longer running). So when I asked you "such as?" I was trying to get you to think about this a little; hopefully to realize there really are no other long-term (aka "proven") options for this power level. Admittedly I'm not on every forum and don't read every thread. So if there are others that exist (and still running), then I'd agree that some other options might exist.

[BobS]

Ok makes sense...

[Verify]

Originally Posted by BobS

Whatever company that has a solution for his power goals.

He is just trolling. Its a well known fact there are very prominent vendors and non-vendors capable of building motors.
Its clear to see your comments were directed towards still having VT3 components, but OP corrected as the vortech S/C and hardware are the same (no reason to swap that) but the motor build is now off VT3 spec and to his standards.

[regular guy]

Originally Posted by SickeM3

He is just trolling. Its a well known fact there are very prominent vendors and non-vendors capable of building motors.
Its clear to see your comments were directed towards still having VT3 components, but OP corrected as the vortech S/C and hardware are the same (no reason to swap that) but the motor build is now off VT3 spec and to his standards.

Sorry didn't mean to sound like it was trolling. Just trying to get Bob to think about it for a minute. I agree with you, lots of people can build engines. The OP proved that by having somebody in Russia build him one. But this project is more than just an engine.

Speaking of the engine, for all intents and purposes, the engine is still VT3 spec. Six of the pistons are his original VT3 pistons. The other two replacement pistons are identical specs. Head studs replace head bolts. Rod bearings were WPC treated. Upgraded valve springs were used. I usually don't consider those types of changes to mean it's not a VT3 spec engine as the parts that really matter (crank, rods, pistsons) are all still the same.

[filinm3]

Tomorrow I am going for engine oil change, Aeromotive fuel filter change etc. and in 2 weeks would start doing first 1/4 mile and 60-130 runs

Today did that little sound video:

Enjoy!

Also, I promissed to show some parts of ESS VT3 fuel system (first 8 photos) which I paid for $5,000 and the discovered reason for the lack of fuel supply...

When the guys in Moscow workshop opened the fuel tank, they decided to check wether Aeromotive additional fuel pump installed by ESS is either working or working OK.... They put that pump into the big 5 gallons plastic box with water and connect it to the battery as it was connected by ESS in the tank... Suddenly it was discovered that with red and black wires connected to "plus" and "minus" as it was done by ESS, that Aeromotive pump was working in the opposite way and did not supply fuel to the fuel system.... Moreover, it did simply take off the fuel back from the fuel system to the tank, thus making overall supply of fuel even worse than by one OEM M3 pump...... to ESS!!!

Simple change of wires connection made the pump doing its business in the desired direction, i.e. pumping the fuel from the basket to the fuel system lines.

That simple discovery is an additional proof of my proposition that my VT3 engine was already been broken by ESS during their 50 dyno tests with such fuel system in place prior to my arrival to their office. Period. My first pull in Finland after 1,000kms being passed from Aremark showed the jerk at 6000 rpms on 4th gear and only God knew that time what this means...

Also, I am enclosing photos of new fuel lines etc, which are made from teflon steel braided rather than those ESS rubber lines.

[Someone?]

Sweet, but looks like Nothing is done right, that things ah MESS and looks like you drive around in the mud only! That think needs a MAJOR cleaning.
Your dealing with a SC built motor that probably cost 35+K to build but it looks like your workn on the car on dirt or just a nasty/dirty place.

[kawasaki00]

Wow, there is so much wrong with the pictures I dont even know where to start. First the black teflon braided line should never be used under the car. Debris can puncture the line and cause a fire. Second that line with three hose clamps on it is absolutely unacceptable. That is a accident waiting to happen. The jacket on that line is not supposed to be crimped by hose clamps because the jacket moves independent of the rubber hose. The jacket and clamp can slide back and then the hose blows off. In the pictue with the Y fuel line one of the smaller lines they left the black electrical tape on the line. The tape is wrapped on the line to prevent fraying when the line is cut but the tape needs to be taken back off before the line is swedged.
This is important and you might want to do this to the new line. Anytime a line is zip tied to another line, bracket or whatever it should be done like the picture I am attatching with another zip tie to seperate the line so no chaffing happens.
And never use teflon tape on the threads of a AN Flared fitting, it is a straight thread so if the taper starts to leak the teflon tape will do nothing to stop the leak. Only on a taper thread should teflon tape be used.
Oh yea and they punctured the mesh filter in the bottom of the bucket because they were too lazy to take it out first before they drilled it. A Uni-Bit would have made nice holes.

[MFL]

Why the hell do you have stickers covering your entire rear windows?

[filinm3]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

Wow, there is so much wrong with the pictures I dont even know where to start. First the black teflon braided line should never be used under the car. Debris can puncture the line and cause a fire. Second that line with three hose clamps on it is absolutely unacceptable. That is a accident waiting to happen. The jacket on that line is not supposed to be crimped by hose clamps because the jacket moves independent of the rubber hose. The jacket and clamp can slide back and then the hose blows off. In the pictue with the Y fuel line one of the smaller lines they left the black electrical tape on the line. The tape is wrapped on the line to prevent fraying when the line is cut but the tape needs to be taken back off before the line is swedged.
This is important and you might want to do this to the new line. Anytime a line is zip tied to another line, bracket or whatever it should be done like the picture I am attatching with another zip tie to seperate the line so no chaffing happens.
And never use teflon tape on the threads of a AN Flared fitting, it is a straight thread so if the taper starts to leak the teflon tape will do nothing to stop the leak. Only on a taper thread should teflon tape be used.
Oh yea and they punctured the mesh filter in the bottom of the bucket because they were too lazy to take it out first before they drilled it. A Uni-Bit would have made nice holes.

Yes, all you wrote is referred to the system Which was done by ESS... 1st 8 pictures... It was so crazy dangerous... Now all as you could see absolutely different...

As for the teflon tape on AN fitting, all is removed as of now, this was just intermediate picture))))

Thank you for your attention!

[filinm3]

Originally Posted by MFL

Why the hell do you have stickers covering your entire rear windows?

They are from 1 mile Race event)

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by filinm3

Yes, all you wrote is referred to the system Which was done by ESS... 1st 8 pictures... It was so crazy dangerous... Now all as you could see absolutely different...

As for the teflon tape on AN fitting, all is removed as of now, this was just intermediate picture))))

Thank you for your attention!

Glad you are getting all back going and straightened out. Looking forward to the results.

[filinm3]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

Glad you are getting all back going and straightened out. Looking forward to the results.

Thank you!

The only thing I need to do is like at your picture with 2 lines...

Good advice! Will follow up with the workshop!

[sales@ESSTuning]

Sergie

The problem with your story is that we have your dyno’s that were made right before you took delivery of your car. Not only are the AFR’s right where they should be @ 11.8 but the car made correct power as you can see. The design of this system is 100% dependent on fuel delivery from both pumps and if what you claim is true that one of the pumps was wired incorrectly the car not only would have run extremely lean it would have never run beyond 6k RPM. This alone proves you are making up stories. If you knew how this system actually work you never would have posted such nonsense knowing we have your dyno's.

I understand you are upset because you feel we should pay for your stupidity but the facts of this matter still remain the same no matter what story or theory you or your mechanic come up with to try and shift blame from your own mistakes.


You purchased a beta test product that we do not sell to the public which you were informed about before making your purchase had no warranty or support.

You showed up in Norway demanding your car early knowing we did not have time to long term test it despite our warnings.

You reported to us the car was great right after taking delivery “we have the emails”.

You drove the car before installing AFR gauges which you were instructed to not do.

You reported to AJ there was an issue later on which we told you was most likely related to a fuel delivery issue and to return the car ASAP for inspection and to stop driving it.

You refused to not only bring the car back to us but you continued to drive it “150+ mph” which you admitted in emails to us.

If you simply would have stopped driving the car when instructed and returned it to us for inspection you could have avoided all of your issues and additional money spent.

[MFL]

This thread is doing 100MPH in a Potato Zone.

There are two guarantees with FI BMW's.
1. They WILL Break, repeatedly
2. You will spend lots of time and money fixing them when they do break

These issues are exacerbated if you dip below the Corky Diagonal on the Horsepower to Intelligence Scale.

[filinm3]

Originally Posted by Roman@ESS

Sergie

The problem with your story is that we have your dyno’s that were made right before you took delivery of your car. Not only are the AFR’s right where they should be @ 11.8 but the car made correct power as you can see. The design of this system is 100% dependent on fuel delivery from both pumps and if what you claim is true that one of the pumps was wired incorrectly the car not only would have run extremely lean it would have never run beyond 6k RPM. This alone proves you are making up stories. If you knew how this system actually work you never would have posted such nonsense knowing we have your dyno's.

I understand you are upset because you feel we should pay for your stupidity but the facts of this matter still remain the same no matter what story or theory you or your mechanic come up with to try and shift blame from your own mistakes.


You purchased a beta test product that we do not sell to the public which you were informed about before making your purchase had no warranty or support.

You showed up in Norway demanding your car early knowing we did not have time to long term test it despite our warnings.

You reported to us the car was great right after taking delivery “we have the emails”.

You drove the car before installing AFR gauges which you were instructed to not do.

You reported to AJ there was an issue later on which we told you was most likely related to a fuel delivery issue and to return the car ASAP for inspection and to stop driving it.

You refused to not only bring the car back to us but you continued to drive it “150+ mph” which you admitted in emails to us.

If you simply would have stopped driving the car when instructed and returned it to us for inspection you could have avoided all of your issues and additional money spent.

Roman,

Please stop writing something on this car you did no nothing about. Returning back the car was simply impossible from Moscow or possible after 1-2 months and for $10k. You would pay for this? No. So, stop talking.

Moreover, this is not my grath - Hans sent me out absolutely different one with absolutely different numbers.

We are done with you and Asbjorn.