Oil filter housing removal DIY?

Chigurh · 07-12-2023, 02:06 AM

So, started the job and ran into a few problems along the way.
Nothing too big but forgot to untighten the bolts for the PS wheel before removing the belts, rookie mistake. Also dropped the bolt for the bracket for the PS pump. Gasket looked okay but guess it could've been better.

What I noticed though; it was a little wet around the sensor and if that was leaking it would drip down around the housing and it would look the same as if the gasket was leaking.

Also; rubber for the plug to the vanos solenoid was damaged, can't find a partnumber anywhere.

Last pics after cleaning, should be good?

Theodore2 · 01-18-2024, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TX

Would something like this work for the last bolt behind the balancer?
Is it a T-30?

https://www.amazon.com/Products-Inc-.../dp/B01F78UTAA

Nice find, thanks! This tool made this job much easier.

Theodore2 · 01-18-2024, 12:23 PM

And some photos of the STEELMAN PRO 78936 inserted into the female torx screw head to show how much clearance you have to work with:

mmojz · 04-12-2026, 09:33 PM

I just did this over the weekend. I’m a novice so this took me a very long time to do. The various DIYs are helpful but some additional thoughts:

1. Be organized with bolts! So many parts get removed!

2. I wish I just drained the coolant. I pumped out the entire expansion tank but every hose dumps 16oz or more. I ended up with about a gallon collected all said and done. It makes a huge mess, gets everywhere, including the reinforcement plate and spills out the front hole. Have lots of catchers!

3. The A/C tensioner and deflector pulley must come off. I couldn’t find accurate torque values on the tensioner bolts. I backed one out and retightened to about the same wrench angle and got 26 Nm so that’s what I did. For the idler bolt, I just did 40 Nm instead of messing with the angle (15 Nm + 70deg). Seemed about the same; I hope.

4. Moving the power steering pump is tricky and it’s in the way making some of the oil filter bolts blind. Be patient and it bends forward pretty far.

5. For reattaching bolts, I put them on a magnet wand to line them up after I dropped one and had to take the reinforcement plate off to get it! Worked out though because there was a pool of coolant to clean up also…

6. You can tell your gasket is bad if you have oil everywhere. Another clue was some of the bolts to the OFH came out with oil on them.

7. To remove the caked on gasket on the OFH, I found rubbing alcohol worked better than brake cleaner/acetone. I also used a toothpick to avoid marring the gasket area.

I replaced the hard oil line o-rings and water pump o-ring. I found mixed information about replacing bolts. All the bolts are steel according to my magnet, so I reused them as their threads also looked fine and consistent top to tip.

Good luck to anyone going through this! It gave me confidence for more projects but quite the investment of time!

07-12-2023, 02:06 AM	#67
Chigurh Enlisted Member 32 Rep 37 Posts Drives: '10 E92 M3 & '14 F31 328i Join Date: Apr 2022 Location: Sweden iTrader: (0)	So, started the job and ran into a few problems along the way. Nothing too big but forgot to untighten the bolts for the PS wheel before removing the belts, rookie mistake. Also dropped the bolt for the bracket for the PS pump. Gasket looked okay but guess it could've been better. What I noticed though; it was a little wet around the sensor and if that was leaking it would drip down around the housing and it would look the same as if the gasket was leaking. Also; rubber for the plug to the vanos solenoid was damaged, can't find a partnumber anywhere. Last pics after cleaning, should be good? Attached Images Last edited by Chigurh; 07-12-2023 at 04:33 AM..
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01-18-2024, 12:23 PM	#69
Theodore2 Private 51 Rep 56 Posts Drives: E92 M3 Join Date: Aug 2022 Location: Tampa, FL iTrader: (0)	And some photos of the STEELMAN PRO 78936 inserted into the female torx screw head to show how much clearance you have to work with:
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04-12-2026, 09:33 PM	#70
mmojz New Member 20 Rep 8 Posts Drives: BMW M3 E93 Join Date: Jul 2025 Location: South Carolina iTrader: (0)	I just did this over the weekend. I’m a novice so this took me a very long time to do. The various DIYs are helpful but some additional thoughts: 1. Be organized with bolts! So many parts get removed! 2. I wish I just drained the coolant. I pumped out the entire expansion tank but every hose dumps 16oz or more. I ended up with about a gallon collected all said and done. It makes a huge mess, gets everywhere, including the reinforcement plate and spills out the front hole. Have lots of catchers! 3. The A/C tensioner and deflector pulley must come off. I couldn’t find accurate torque values on the tensioner bolts. I backed one out and retightened to about the same wrench angle and got 26 Nm so that’s what I did. For the idler bolt, I just did 40 Nm instead of messing with the angle (15 Nm + 70deg). Seemed about the same; I hope. 4. Moving the power steering pump is tricky and it’s in the way making some of the oil filter bolts blind. Be patient and it bends forward pretty far. 5. For reattaching bolts, I put them on a magnet wand to line them up after I dropped one and had to take the reinforcement plate off to get it! Worked out though because there was a pool of coolant to clean up also… 6. You can tell your gasket is bad if you have oil everywhere. Another clue was some of the bolts to the OFH came out with oil on them. 7. To remove the caked on gasket on the OFH, I found rubbing alcohol worked better than brake cleaner/acetone. I also used a toothpick to avoid marring the gasket area. I replaced the hard oil line o-rings and water pump o-ring. I found mixed information about replacing bolts. All the bolts are steel according to my magnet, so I reused them as their threads also looked fine and consistent top to tip. Good luck to anyone going through this! It gave me confidence for more projects but quite the investment of time! Attached Images
	Appreciate 0 Quote