Coolant temps around 240 after four corners at COTA.

[Lienrocs]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

should use one of those pressurized systems!

i hope you figure it out, it's sort of worrying the chance of Do88 being faulty is higher than usual.. i normally never went the CSF route since i felt they didn't do much compared to Do88 but maybe i might start recommending them to others if this is a common issue with do88.

then again maybe do88 downfall was when they got put on FCP list of available items lol.

I’ve used a vacuum bleeder, did it the old fashioned way and burped a vacuum fill. Same result.

[spammysammich]

I forgot to burp my heater core when I switched to a CSF radiator. And was lucky I was hauling a gallon of coolant around with me for a while just in case.

[Lienrocs]

Originally Posted by spammysammich

I forgot to burp my heater core when I switched to a CSF radiator. And was lucky I was hauling a gallon of coolant around with me for a while just in case.

I burped the core every time as well as far as I know. The heater was always on and maxed every time I dropped/refilled the coolant.

[Redd]

Not sure if this is a relevant question but where are you reading the coolant temp?

[Lienrocs]

Originally Posted by Redd

Not sure if this is a relevant question but where are you reading the coolant temp?

Pull them from can so I’m assuming the temp sensor in the thermostat housing.

[amg6975]

If people are seeing a quality drop in DO88, PWR does have an E92 radiator, twice as expensive but their stuff is typically above top of the line.

https://www.pwrna.com/product/bmw-ra...Nw4deD-J7Dw0eP

https://www.pwrna.com/product/55mm-e...V6VPJkh-QGzkq0

[Lienrocs]

Originally Posted by amg6975

If people are seeing a quality drop in DO88, PWR does have an E92 radiator, twice as expensive but their stuff is typically above top of the line.

https://www.pwrna.com/product/bmw-radiator-e90-m3-2006-11-sedan-e92-m3-2007-13-coupe-e93-m3-2007-13-convertible?srsltid=AfmBOoqUGt7yWLAjvP6uIaA0MW7Lmx dDyEeRjEcA-WNw4deD-J7Dw0eP

Ive got one sitting on the shelf already. It requires a lot of custom work to get to work. I was trying to get some better data on the car for before and after. Ive got some other bits and bobs im working on but didn’t want to go through all the trouble if my motor is hurt. The jury is still out. COTA is a very unique track and doesn’t have a lot of e92’s running out there. I’ve made so many changes to the car in a very short period of time I figured I’d ask all the track people if they’ve run into a massive cooling problem due to some quirk that I’ve not thought of.

[former 240 s14]

Originally Posted by Lienrocs

I have an aim mxp hard wired into can.

I’m going to snag an eom rad and try and run some engine flush through it.

You don't need a RAD to do the flush. I would disconnect both hoses from the engine block, take out the thermostat, and put a hose in it.

Rubin

[Lienrocs]

Originally Posted by former 240 s14

You don't need a RAD to do the flush. I would disconnect both hoses from the engine block, take out the thermostat, and put a hose in it.

Rubin

I’m going to run a few cycles of cleaner through it and I’m really tired of spraying the motor, and myself, with fluid. The do88 radiator I received doesn’t have a drain plug or I’d just use it.

[atopa2002]

"an lines and improved racing 185 degree full flow thermostat installed"

This may also be faulty, try running it without it and see how it helps.

[amg6975]

Originally Posted by Lienrocs

Ive got one sitting on the shelf already. It requires a lot of custom work to get to work.

I emailed them about this a while ago and never heard back. Can you elaborate a bit? I know they say you need to remove/relocate the AC condenser, which I removed years ago.

Is the core actually larger than factory? Are there other fitment issues other than that?

[Lienrocs]

Originally Posted by atopa2002

"an lines and improved racing 185 degree full flow thermostat installed"

This may also be faulty, try running it without it and see how it helps.

Oil temps aren’t really the issue. They’re hot but they’re always hot on e92’s. Especially at COTA. I’ll take a look at it though!

[Lienrocs]

Originally Posted by amg6975

I emailed them about this a while ago and never heard back. Can you elaborate a bit? I know they say you need to remove/relocate the AC condenser, which I removed years ago.

Is the core actually larger than factory? Are there other fitment issues other than that?

The PWR unit uses the end tanks for the mount so it takes the full width of the core support. It’s a 42mm core so it’s not a depth issue but due to the core taking the full width there’s no pass through for the ac, which is stated, but the factory power steering cooler attachment won’t work, there’s not a way to pass them between the core and frame rails and there’s no way to mount the ps cooler to the radiator.

I will say, if the looks are anything to go by the PWR unit will work the best. The end tanks are massive and the fit and finish of the whole thing is top notch.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by Lienrocs

The PWR unit uses the end tanks for the mount so it takes the full width of the core support. It’s a 42mm core so it’s not a depth issue but due to the core taking the full width there’s no pass through for the ac, which is stated, but the factory power steering cooler attachment won’t work, there’s not a way to pass them between the core and frame rails and there’s no way to mount the ps cooler to the radiator.

I will say, if the looks are anything to go by the PWR unit will work the best. The end tanks are massive and the fit and finish of the whole thing is top notch.

PWR are also single pass - They have a bigger option as well 55mm core “elite” but that requires more fab.

[Lienrocs]

Originally Posted by DRLane

PWR are also single pass - They have a bigger option as well 55mm core “elite” but that requires more fab.

I asked them about the 55 core and they said that’s not really a thing for anything not running 24 hours. The “small core” should be fine when I make it work.

[roastbeef]

i think your cooling problems lies in you use of the splitter and building up a high pressure zone behind the radiator.
i'm guessing you don't have hood vents. if you don't, you should consider it and it will probably solve your issue.
if you sealed up the front underside of your car with that splitter, you are limiting where the air can escape and building up pressure behind the coolers. the splitter itself contributes to this as well, by force feeding the cooler inlets more air than can flow through them. the result is sort of like a boundary layer in front of your car and the air simply flows around the front of your car, rather than through the coolers.
i think the key to solving your problem is reducing presure behind the main radiator. start with hood vents and removing the rubber plug on the oem hood vent on the passenger side of the hood. if you've already done all of this, then i'm out of theories.

[Lienrocs]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

i think your cooling problems lies in you use of the splitter and building up a high pressure zone behind the radiator.
i'm guessing you don't have hood vents. if you don't, you should consider it and it will probably solve your issue.
if you sealed up the front underside of your car with that splitter, you are limiting where the air can escape and building up pressure behind the coolers. the splitter itself contributes to this as well, by force feeding the cooler inlets more air than can flow through them. the result is sort of like a boundary layer in front of your car and the air simply flows around the front of your car, rather than through the coolers.
i think the key to solving your problem is reducing presure behind the main radiator. start with hood vents and removing the rubber plug on the oem hood vent on the passenger side of the hood. if you've already done all of this, then i'm out of theories.

I’ve got a vented hood sitting on the shelf, I just need to get to fitting and painting it.

[Redd]

Since we're on this topic, what's the max SAFE coolant temp to be running at track? Mine hit 112C/234F momentarily after a few laps. I saw the warning on my HUD (no CEL/warning from DME) and immediately took a cool down lap. Both oil and coolant temps dropped quickly once I stopped pushing.

[Lienrocs]

Originally Posted by Redd

Since we're on this topic, what's the max SAFE coolant temp to be running at track? Mine hit 112C/234F momentarily after a few laps. I saw the warning on my HUD (no CEL/warning from DME) and immediately took a cool down lap. Both oil and coolant temps dropped quickly once I stopped pushing.

I have no idea. I’ve had the car go into limp mode once before but it was pre can data integration so I don’t have real temp data. I know my F82 M4 sits around 220 in comfort/sport just driving down the freeway. I know it’s a different car/engine but BMW does BMW stuff.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Lienrocs

I’ve got a vented hood sitting on the shelf, I just need to get to fitting and painting it.

get it test fitted and run a track day and see if your problems go away. it seems like the only missing factor of your revamped cooling system is air going through the cooler.

some more food for thought- as i'm doing my hvac delete and electric power steering conversion, i've had the opportunity to observe the radiator secured to the radiator support while it is off the car. with the hvac deleted, there are numerous gaps that would allow air to escape around the heat exchanger. i'm currently working on sourcing a suitable high temperature seal.

[kolosy]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

get it test fitted and run a track day and see if your problems go away. it seems like the only missing factor of your revamped cooling system is air going through the cooler.

some more food for thought- as i'm doing my hvac delete and electric power steering conversion, i've had the opportunity to observe the radiator secured to the radiator support while it is off the car. with the hvac deleted, there are numerous gaps that would allow air to escape around the heat exchanger. i'm currently working on sourcing a suitable high temperature seal.

Would be curious to know where you land on that. I pulled my ac, and while my water temp is ok I saw oil get up to 260 on the first warm day of the season (84 ambient).

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by kolosy

Would be curious to know where you land on that. I pulled my ac, and while my water temp is ok I saw oil get up to 260 on the first warm day of the season (84 ambient).

what does the underside of your splitter look like where the oil cooler outlet is? i imagine its pretty hard to make that area a high pressure zone, but without proper ducting, air might be just flowing around it.
the oem undertray on thse cars is decently form fitting with minimal leaks for what it is. i feel like distrupting the packaging is problematic.