No Crank No Start and More!

[ENinetyLou]

So I recently finished DIY replacement of a broken valve spring on Cylinder 7 intake. Fortunately it appears I didn't bend the valve since the cylinder passed the leakdown test after valve spring replacement. I retimed the engine and buttoned it all up after. When attempting to start the car back up, I hear a click and no start.

I also notice several other items not working:
- No fuel pump noises
- No "bmw ding"
- No iDrive/no radio
- AC starts for like 1 sec then stops,
- No Horn
- Clutch pedal says it isn't being depressed when it is (bad clutch sensor?)
- Windows don't work either
- The headlights work and brights also work
- Windshield wipers come on and stay on after clutch pedal is pressed
- Throttle actuators work when throttle is applied

I've started some diagnosis with fuses and found several that don't have power to them: 6, 70, 28, 67, 76, 77 to name a few that I feel are related to the issue.

I replaced the battery and registered the battery, I replaced the CAS relay too. Neither of those did anything.

I've searched TIS and here, but can't find any helpful wiring diagrams that involve the fuses or functions of those fuses or indicate how any of these electrical systems are related. I have a feeling one of the modules (JBE of FRM) is fried or scrambled, but I'm unsure of where to go from here.

Can someone point me in the right direction on how to check if these modules aren't working right, or if its something else?

[spammysammich]

Frm is extremely sensitive to input voltage. Very possible that it is fried.

[ENinetyLou]

Would this cause a no crank/no start? How would I check if it's "fried"? I do get plenty of errors on the "footwell module" reading it on the autel reader I've got access to.

[nick3753]

Maybe check the ground (earth) strap/cable?

[ENinetyLou]

The ground strap on the bottom of the car looks to be fine. I reconnected the other grounds on the bank 2 valve cover bolt and ignition coil cover point. I'm considering getting INPA or ISTA to diagnose further. Is it worth getting, or is the Autel Maxicheck good enough to diagnose this no-start based on terminal firing observations. I would like to figure out the issue before throwing parts at it.

[ENinetyLou]

Closing out this thread, I found my issue: somehow fuse 36 was missing. Either the previous mechanic diagnosing my car pulled the fuse out, or I made a mistake not replacing the correct fuses when I was trying to prime the vehicle (with no fuel pump fuses in) after maintenance. Thanks to @bimmerbrain on instagram for helping diagnose remotely.