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View Poll Results: How tightly do you stick to the break-in period? | |||
Religiously, no revving over 5500 rpm nor overspeeding what so ever. | 101 | 53.16% | |
As close to the manual as possible, but can't resist the open road or 911 speeding pass. | 67 | 35.26% | |
Screw it, it's my car and no 1 tells me how to drive it. | 22 | 11.58% | |
Voters: 190. You may not vote on this poll |
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08-13-2008, 01:10 AM | #1 |
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The Break-in Religion...
As stated clearly in the manual, the break-in period is for the first 1200-3000 miles. But which of you actually know what it's for? How is this suppose to make the drivetrain and enging better or worse? Does it affect your warrenty? And most importantly who actually follows it religiously?
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08-13-2008, 01:22 AM | #2 |
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you sure do love polls!
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08-13-2008, 01:28 AM | #4 |
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hahaha...XD... they take the decisions off my hands... ThanX guys!
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08-13-2008, 01:51 AM | #5 |
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Lol...really silly question! BMW could make evident every r.p.m. over 5500 and every overspeeding wíthin the first 3000miles and what do you think is the answer when you have engine troubles - the reason is alike - after ignoring the right breakin and ask for warrenty? NO CHANCE !!! There are enaugh threads in this forum about breakin Uli_HH P.S. Breakin has nothing to do with religion only with good sense or knowing how costly an engine chance was without warranty. |
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08-13-2008, 01:51 AM | #6 |
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Its a catch 22....
To properly break in the motor (ie: seat the rings), you need to exceed 5500 rpms by quite a bit as soon as possible, basically. However, if you have some issues down the road, they could read out your DME and see how you drove it, then blame it on you. I aint going to debate breakin procedures with everybody. To each his own. I have broken in several new motors, and race-built motors, in my day. None of them ever had any internal issues and never burned any measurable oil. The only internal failure I had was my fault by doing a money shift on my E36 M3. It wasn't a major money shift as I caught it quick and only bent a couple valves! lol. coulda been much worse. As far as break in, everybody is going to have to do what they think is best. I aint going to debate or judge anybody....its your car, do as you please.
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08-13-2008, 01:58 AM | #7 |
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What is the theory behind breaking in? And how dhould it be done?
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08-13-2008, 02:28 AM | #8 |
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Second option - as close to the manual as possible
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08-13-2008, 03:31 AM | #10 | |
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Last edited by Sticky; 08-13-2008 at 01:36 PM.. |
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08-13-2008, 07:25 AM | #11 | |
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GT3Tim is correct,but I will add 1 thing that a lot of people don't seem to care about and has much more effect on an engines life than the break-in procedure used.Maybe it was a previous life around large diesels & large piston engine aircraft is that I am very anal about proper oil temp before running an engine at 100% power.With all my engines I make sure the chill is off the motor and with the M3 at least 80c oil temp before I take it over 3000 rpm.Without proper oil temp the motor is not fully warmed up and is not at the engineered tolerances and could cause long term problems.Just because it is 35c outside does not mean that you do not need to warm it up before you push it. |
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08-13-2008, 08:56 AM | #12 |
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I am familiar with the school of thought that you need to run the engine hard to properly seat the rings. I'm pretty sure the engine is mostly broken in in that respect before it ever gets to the dealer. But there is also the transmission, differential, brakes, tires, etc. that need to be broken in correctly. Bedding the brakes correctly come to mind as something that seems to be neglected. I doubt this is ever done before you take delivery of the car. (You can look up how to do this on the internet for more info.) Plus, the engine has a different type of oil before the 1200 mile service so I feel that it is best to just go with what BMW says. It doesn't mean you have to completely baby it.
When I got the E46 M3 in '02 I tried to follow the break-in procedures but there was a time or two, sometime during the first few drives that I inadvertently went over 5500 rpm but not by much. This shouldn't hurt anything and BMW never brought it up during any servicing. I did run it pretty hard while still within the BMW recommended procedure and did not baby it. But I varied the speed (and throttle) almost religiously, never went over 100 mph, and floored it (again inadvertently) only once that I can think of. I gradually increased max rpm until 3000 miles. I never had a problem with the engine. It seemed to just get stronger and stronger the older it got. The bad was that I was subject to the engine bearing recall. I had to go through engine break-in all over again Hopefully, that sort of thing won't happen again.
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08-13-2008, 11:21 AM | #13 | ||
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08-13-2008, 11:54 AM | #14 |
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I've got a long drive on country roads to get home from my dealer. When I first pick up my car, before hitting the highway, I'm going to begin bedding in the brakes (15 minute process followed by taking it easy on the brakes for the first 600 miles). This will also allow the drivetrain and oil to warm up for the engine break-in.
1. Once warm, I'll get on the highway to head back home. I'm going to start by doing 3 half-throttle pulls up to the 5,500 rpm limit, each followed by engine braking down to about 3,000 rpm. I will then pull over for about 15 minutes of cool down. 2. I will then do 3 more pulls at about 3/4 throttle up to about 6,800 rpm, each followed by engine braking down to about 3,000 rpm. I will again pull over for 15 minutes of cool down. 3. I will do 3 final pulls at full throttle up to just below redline, each follwed by engine braking down to about 3,000 rpm. I will again pull over for 15 minutes of cool down. After this is done, I'm going to take it relatively easy on the car until the 1,200 mile service. I'll make sure to vary the engine load and rpms, and I'm sure I'll go over the 5,500 limit occasionally. I used this procedure to break in my E46, and it held its oil like a champ, got noticeably stronger over time, and I never experienced any drivetrain issues. I don't see a good poll option for a calculated diversion from the recommended procedure, so I didn't vote. |
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08-13-2008, 12:28 PM | #15 |
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I've accidentally went past the 5500 limit a few times, even the day I drove it off the lot. But only briefly into 6500 territory but I think my engine is better off because of it. I'm still not quite pushing it even after my breakin and thus I don't go past 7000rpm usually.
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08-13-2008, 12:57 PM | #16 |
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This topic has been discussed many times so I wont go into my thoughts too much...
I understand the philosophy that the auto maker knows best I also understand the argument that modern engines dont need the same type of break-in the older engines did. I also understand that the factory takes all engines up to redline before the car leaves the factory so why the restriction? Personally, I would just go with the book because apparently the dealer will know if you have not and you could run into some issues if the car has any kinds of problems down the road. Jason
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08-13-2008, 02:30 PM | #17 | |
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08-13-2008, 03:01 PM | #18 | |
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08-13-2008, 04:10 PM | #19 | |
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I'm glad to hear that you E46 M3 engine experience was like mine. I'm sure the E9x M3 engine will be just as good.
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08-13-2008, 05:57 PM | #20 |
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religiously for me.
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08-26-2008, 02:49 PM | #21 |
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I think I'll follow TLud's recipe.
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08-27-2008, 11:47 AM | #22 |
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ok had my 2000km service and the car is perfect!!!!... it used no oil in this time and the car seems louder and more smoother after the service ... its on 2400km now
this is how i drove her in For the 1st 900km i did not go over the 5500RPM ... after 900km, i pushed the car ... but everytime i drove the car id do the following: 1. Id drive off immediately after starting the car, but id leave the car in D1 mode and keep it under 3000km until the oil warmed up to the middle mark, i always make sure the oil is warm, before pushing the car even over 3000RPM 2. Id then push the car, test the 5500RPM band for a bit then push it a little more to 7000RPM and then some red lining as well ... id vary my engine speed a lot ... 3. Cool down the car by driving slowly again until the oil temp dropped to about the 100 mark again, when at home, let it idle for a wee bit and then switch off ...
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