LUK vs SPEC clutch

[aysantana]

Hey m3post! I'm looking to get some input on a topic that's been beaten to death on this page. Clutch kits!

I have an '08 6 speed ESS stage 1 M3. I daily the car in the summer so I'm not interested in a performance race kit. I would like a street-able clutch that can handle the power of the ESS kit.

With that being said I have narrowed my search down to 2 options:

1. SPEC twin disc clutch kit with steel flywheel. Part number: SB93SST
This kit is available for approx $1600-$1700 on eBay.

2. Piece together LUK kit with Dual mass flywheel part number: 415045310 approx $550 with shipping from UK . LUK clutch kit: 03-102 approx $340. Totaling $900 or so.

I'm posting to get some feedback on this potential LUK kit with the DMF. is anyone running set up? Is paying the extra $700 for the SPEC justifiable? Not trying to do a clutch job twice. Are there any other options I missed?

P.S.: looking to change the clutch because I believe mine is affected with the weak pressure plate issue

Thank you in advance!

[deansbimmer]

The aftermarket likes to note what a big upgrade it is to "twin disc" but that's just their marketing department talking since the original is twin disc carbon/organic to begin with. Slightly misleading of them...

There is no need to replace the OEM clutch to handle superchargers, OEM will handle Stage 2 SC's. Stage 1 won't sweat a factory clutch.

With the SPEC kit you're mainly paying for the upgraded flywheel. Since your 08 likely has the older setup the SPEC is going to update the entire assembly and give a *slight* performance edge over the original. Driveability/pedal feel won't really change much.

If your clutch is aging then I'd go with the SPEC.

[Duk996]

I bought a jbr lightweight flywheel and stock luk clutch. I wanted lightweight though. I'll let you know how it performs if I ever get the car running again.

[Scharbag]

I hope Bmw reacts better than vw with light flywheels. With my old vw, it caused a lot of gear lash noises when I went with a very light clutch and flywheel.

[Solo_M_Tech]

Let me offer some advice. Of the last 10 spec clutches i've installed, I've had to remove and replace 6 of them due to balancing weights coming off, putting holes in bell housings, and or locking the drivetrain up. Worse one to remove, I had to drill a hole in the bell housing, unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel, and then cut the clutch discs and pressure plate off of the trans input shaft. It had completely seized.

Note I never have problems with Specs N54/N55 clutch assemblies. They have all worked flawlessly.

Stick with the stock clutch and dual mass flywheel. Best advice I can give you.

[SHADY1]

When my OEM Clutch went out I replaced it with a Spec Super Twin disc Clutch. I thought I was good. Not The bearing failed at 30,000 miles. I don't track my car or anything and my car is supercharged. I had to go back to the OEM Clutch yes it cost more but it can handle the power of the Supercharger and it will last a lot longer trust me. My original OEM Clutch lasted me over 100,000 miles.

Take my advice and look at ham_sammich nightmares dealing with this clutch for example.

Originally Posted by ham_sammich

Let me offer some advice. Of the last 10 spec clutches i've installed, I've had to remove and replace 6 of them due to balancing weights coming off, putting holes in bell housings, and or locking the drivetrain up. Worse one to remove, I had to drill a hole in the bell housing, unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel, and then cut the clutch discs and pressure plate off of the trans input shaft. It had completely seized.

Note I never have problems with Specs N54/N55 clutch assemblies. They have all worked flawlessly.

Stick with the stock clutch and dual mass flywheel. Best advice I can give you.

[e92livin]

Originally Posted by ham_sammich

Let me offer some advice. Of the last 10 spec clutches i've installed, I've had to remove and replace 6 of them due to balancing weights coming off, putting holes in bell housings, and or locking the drivetrain up. Worse one to remove, I had to drill a hole in the bell housing, unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel, and then cut the clutch discs and pressure plate off of the trans input shaft. It had completely seized.

Note I never have problems with Specs N54/N55 clutch assemblies. They have all worked flawlessly.

Stick with the stock clutch and dual mass flywheel. Best advice I can give you.

+1, I recently removed my Spec Stage 2 clutch it was a nightmare. I have now reinstalled a OEM Clutch Assy and couldn't be happier, I wasted a ton of $ going with spec because I had to pull it right out. It became harder to go into gear, it would lock me out of gear, wouldn't disengage all the way, would drag also. Save your money OP go with OEM.

[romemmy]

I have the SPEC clutch... Got about 1500 miles on it and two track days. The clutch is loud at idle (clutch in and all noise goes away). I put it down to the typical twin-clutch+light flywheel chatter. Weirdly enough sometimes it gets quieter, sometimes louder. It seems to operate fine though - no judder, handles the 600HP of power, and did well at the track...

One other thing I've noticed recently though, at idle, if I push the clutch in, about mid-way it feels like it sticks - it's very subtle, but it's almost like it's going over a bump. Happens most of the time, but not all the time. Doesn't affect anything - just hope it isn't the first sign of the clutch failing..

Kinda crazy that a near $2K clutch has these kinds of issue...

Thanks!

S.

[charliev68]

Wanted some opinions…
XClutch Twin Disk Kit vs ClutchMaster Single Mass w/Stock Unsprung Clutch?

[amrazM]

Originally Posted by charliev68

Wanted some opinions…
XClutch Twin Disk Kit vs ClutchMaster Single Mass w/Stock Unsprung Clutch?

the 8 inch clutch they make for this car is not made for the street, its an rigid clutch kit with ceramic discs. the throw out bearing they use is also very loud with the clutch pushed in. If you can deal with it go for it, its a monster clutch setup.

[charliev68]

Originally Posted by amrazM

the 8 inch clutch they make for this car is not made for the street, its an rigid clutch kit with ceramic discs. the throw out bearing they use is also very loud with the clutch pushed in. If you can deal with it go for it, its a monster clutch setup.

What’s the difference between the 8” and 9”? The 8” is a little bit cheaper. They also make a 7.25”.

[amrazM]

Originally Posted by charliev68

What’s the difference between the 8” and 9”? The 8” is a little bit cheaper. They also make a 7.25”.

more surface area greater clamping area. just another thing to keep in mind is the x clutch will last 15-20k miles on a dd in most cases. Ive driven an m5 with the clutchmasters flywheel and fx200 and the drivability is great.