First track day with my M3 and it got HOT

[M3Convert]

I took my M3 to a track event at New Jersey Motorsports Park yesterday and I chased high oil and coolant temperatures each of my 4 sessions. Admittedly, the ambient temperature was mid 90’s but I saw coolant temps of 235 (per OBD readings) and roughly 260-275 oil temps based on the cluster gauge.

First, let me get this out of the way, I've installed all D088 coolers (oil, radiator, PS, and DCT) and all fluids have been recently replaced (oil and filter changed less than a week before the track event).

My main concern isn't necessarily the temps themselves (I was still hoping they wouldn't get that high with the upgraded coolers though) but rather that it only took two hot laps to get that high and then it really wouldn't cool off until I took, and kept, the revs under 3k. The car will quickly cool off sitting at idle which seems a little odd to me as you would think coasting around the track at 50-70 mpg the temps would quickly fall but that is not what happened.

Should I be concerned? Anything obvious I'm missing? I'd really appreciate some advice or suggestions from the more experienced track junkies! Thanks in advance all.

Oh, and if anyone would like, here's a video of my poor driving:

[kolosy]

how bad is the AC condenser? it sits in front of the radiator and if it's in bad shape it can restrict airflow.

i've got a similar cooling package to you (do88 DCT, CSF on the rest) and my oil doesn't go above 250 even on hot days.

[tsk94]

Based on the numbers, I wouldn't be overly alarmed.
I had the full CSF kit on my car. We basically never see track days that hot here up North. But I've had plenty of days in the low to mid 80's and my oil temp would be around 250 once it got hot. You're also about 15* hotter on water temp then I would see.

Given the hotter ambient temps I think it sounds normal-ish..? I'm sure some of the boys from Cali & Texas can chime in, they are used to seeing those temps all the time lol.

Do you still have the A/C condenser?

[M3Convert]

I do still have the, I believe, original condenser and the car does have nearly 145k miles on the odometer. I'll take a better look after I get the front bumper off and see what I'm working with. Again, what concerns me is that even cruising on the highway to the track, if I was at or above 3k the oil temp gauge showed about 220 temps which doesn't seem right given my modifications. If I cruised below 3k the gauge would drop to 210 again.

[tsk94]

The part itself is cheap to replace, so that would be a good start if it's the OG unit with almost 150k miles. It takes all the beater being in front of the radiator.

[omgzirra_exe]

TBF that's normal temps on track. and to be quiet honest, since you don't have an actual base line with out the cooler upgrade. you'll never know.

so with that said, we need to know the car as a whole.. so what are the mods?

[M3Convert]

Well, like I said I'm not necessarily concerned about the temps themselves I'm more concerned about how quickly it gets hot and the difficulty in lowering them.

But knowing the mods might definitely help so here we go:

• Ohlins road and track coilovers
• Stoptech ST-60 BBK (front and rear)
• DO88 coolers
• Valvetronic cat-back exhaust
• Macht Schnell stage 2 intake
• Epic Motorsports ECU and TCU tunes
• Rogue Engineering power pulley kit
• Bimmerworld TE:AL 18x10 forged wheels w/ Kumho Ecsta V730 275/35/18 tires

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

TBF that's normal temps on track. and to be quiet honest, since you don't have an actual base line with out the cooler upgrade. you'll never know.

so with that said, we need to know the car as a whole.. so what are the mods?

[Redd]

Your oil temps sound normal, but coolant is on the high side, especially with an uprated radiator. Have you replaced your coolant thermostat?

[M3Convert]

Originally Posted by Redd

Your oil temps sound normal, but coolant is on the high side, especially with an uprated radiator. Have you replaced your coolant thermostat?

I have not, no. I would assume it's original but I just picked this car up a year ago with very little service history.

[Redd]

A thermostat that's not opening fully would result in higher coolant temps. It's a cheap and easy replacement, I'd do it.

[t_win]

I recently did a track day where the ambient temperature was around mid 90s to high 90s. My car has the same cooling mods as yours and would slowly reach your peak temperatures that you were seeing after 15 minutes of lapping.

So it could be condenser. Some people also suggest an oil diverter valve so there is greater flow to the oil cooler.

[M3Convert]

Originally Posted by t_win

I recently did a track day where the ambient temperature was around mid 90s to high 90s. My car has the same cooling mods as yours and would slowly reach your peak temperatures that you were seeing after 15 minutes of lapping.

So it could be condenser. Some people also suggest an oil diverter valve so there is greater flow to the oil cooler.

I think I'm just going to do some maintenance. It couldn't hurt to change the water pump, thermostat, and condenser.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by M3Convert

Well, like I said I'm not necessarily concerned about the temps themselves I'm more concerned about how quickly it gets hot and the difficulty in lowering them.

But knowing the mods might definitely help so here we go:

• Ohlins road and track coilovers
• Stoptech ST-60 BBK (front and rear)
• DO88 coolers
• Valvetronic cat-back exhaust
• Macht Schnell stage 2 intake
• Epic Motorsports ECU and TCU tunes
• Rogue Engineering power pulley kit
• Bimmerworld TE:AL 18x10 forged wheels w/ Kumho Ecsta V730 275/35/18 tires

yeah, sounds like you just need to do some maintenance lol. water pump, with metal impeller if possible, thermostat, run a redline water wetter mix with your bmw coolant, new belts, etc...

[Scrippy]

I live in Southern California and see constant 90’s all summer and a lot of >110. I’ve never really had any heat issues with MAX AC use but this year my engine temps are getting high. Upon inspection of my condensor, I noticed a high amount of bent flat fins. I am going to comb and clean the condensor and see what comes of it. If I see no or minimal change, I’ll just replace it. 2011 coupe approaching 270,XXX miles, original condenser. I added freon once two years ago and this is my first hot engine issue in a summer. AC is still fantastic but I do have 70% window tint all around.

[mikerunt]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

I live in Southern California and see constant 90’s all summer and a lot of >110. I’ve never really had any heat issues with MAX AC use but this year my engine temps are getting high. Upon inspection of my condensor, I noticed a high amount of bent flat fins. I am going to comb and clean the condensor and see what comes of it. If I see no or minimal change, I’ll just replace it. 2011 coupe approaching 270,XXX miles, original condenser. I added freon once two years ago and this is my first hot engine issue in a summer. AC is still fantastic but I do have 70% window tint all around.

Assume you mean driving around town and not on track - right?

[M3SQRD]

I agree with Redd. A thermostat not fully opening would result in higher street and track temperatures. Also, air in the system would make the radiator/cooler not operate well.

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by mikerunt

Assume you mean driving around town and not on track - right?

Mix in maybe 6 track days. I am stock with only coil overs. I am not breaking any records but I am running all my heats. But yes mainly DD. So yes driving for work. I frequently do LA to SF, LA to Vegas and LA to SD.

[M3Convert]

I was able to begin this latest round of maintenance. It looks like the water pump and thermostat are original (plastic impeller on the WP). Luckily, the inside of the engine (at least the cooling side of things) is spotless.



I decided I'd test my original thermostat and this is as far as it would open at 200 degrees:



I have no idea if that is the correct amount or not but regardless I am going to change both the thermostat and the water pump for new units from FCP Euro. I found another thread where a poster was describing the exact same issue as I'm having and the new thermostat and water pump solved his issues. I'm hoping the same goes for me.

I'll follow up next month as I have a track day scheduled for the same track and I assume it'll still be plenty hot in August.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by M3Convert

I decided I'd test my original thermostat and this is as far as it would open at 200 degrees:

you could do the gates thermostat which supposedly opens at 159F/71C

[Redd]

It opens a little bit earlier but I doubt it opens any wider than the stock 'stat.

[M3Convert]

I wanted to post an update as I've made significant progress on my particular overheating issue. It turns out that it was entirely self-inflicted. When I installed my DO88 radiator I did not install it properly, per the provided instructions. I did not trim the radiator shroud and because I didn't do that it wasn't in the proper position which also caused my condenser to not sit in the correct, or fixed, position. I realized that the right side of the condenser would just flop forward and backward because it wasn't clipped in. After trimming the radiator shroud, properly affixing the condenser, and closing up the gaps around the oil cooler duct I have reduced my oil temperatures while cruising and while on track.

While cruising on the highway at around 75 - 80 mph I would normally be sitting at roughly 220-225 oil temps but now I am actually sitting around 190 (below the middle hash mark). In really hot / humid weather it will eventually creep up to just below the middle hash mark, so just under 210. Additionally, I recently attended a Track Night in America at NJMP on Lightning (same track as my first post) and while it was between 93 and 95 degrees on track, I only ever got to a little bit above 255 oil temps and that was after a full 15+ minutes on track. I never hit limp mode and overall the car performed great.

I hope this helps someone in the future - make sure you follow all of the instructions for the DO88 radiator install and make sure all the shrouds and ducting are in the proper position and secured.

[spammysammich]

Double check your hoses to make sure they didn’t kiss any pulleys when the radiator shifted forward.