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      06-03-2024, 01:17 AM   #45
MyNameIsNotSure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
It's a lot less than that. There is also alot more oil left in other parts of the engine that an oil change doesn't get out.

It's not a big deal compared to the alternative. Buying and installing a new or used pan.
Yeah I guess hopefully it’s less oil than that. But still though—why not just tap a new thread and use a larger bolt? Seems more straightforward vs buying a kit, screwing a new thread in, using loctite to glue it in place, etc. Genuinely asking if there’s a factor I’m missing. Not too experienced mechanically but I am an engineer and it just seems like the simpler way to go.
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      06-11-2024, 11:40 AM   #46
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A time sert will be less prone to stripping in the future and you’ll be able to stick with the stock drain plug and crush washer which are actually really good for sealing. A bigger drain plug is just going to strip again as there isn’t a whole lot of material in the drain boss at the rear position. Plus you’ll need to be sure to have a supply of additional crush washers. You do you. But time serts are a proven solution. I just get drain plugs and crush washers from fcpeuro and change them out very OCI.
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      06-11-2024, 06:32 PM   #47
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tips on getting the drain bolt out? mine is sitting almost flush and just spins when I back out. how do I get leverage on it? worst case I was thinking jbweld plus an allen key...
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      06-11-2024, 11:26 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerrit View Post
tips on getting the drain bolt out? mine is sitting almost flush and just spins when I back out. how do I get leverage on it? worst case I was thinking jbweld plus an allen key...
Maybe try to go up to the next size torx bit and tap it into the bolt then gently apply some pull to it as you try to back it out. That’s a bummer.
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