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      05-10-2024, 03:05 PM   #21451
XKxRome0ox
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the hits just keep coming
now a misfiring code

i'm ready to push my car off a cliff
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      05-10-2024, 03:11 PM   #21452
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2010 E92 M3  [8.70]
Trifecta be gone!

Bad right front wheel speed sensor. There were my errors if anyone is curious.
30 min fix. Dealer wanted 280 for one sensor. Got both OEM ATE fronts for $100 from Turner. 30 min job.
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      05-10-2024, 03:29 PM   #21453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox View Post
the hits just keep coming
now a misfiring code

i'm ready to push my car off a cliff
pull your cylinder 6 injector and check to see if its stuck open.
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      05-10-2024, 05:08 PM   #21454
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put on the 18s, drove it out for coffee, then took pictures to update my for sale ad. Do I really want to sell this thing? I don't even know for the 3rd time.
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      05-10-2024, 05:13 PM   #21455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox View Post
the hits just keep coming
now a misfiring code

i'm ready to push my car off a cliff
Is it persistent?

If it is, move coil #6 to other cylinder and see if fault follows it.
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      05-10-2024, 05:15 PM   #21456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe View Post
pull your cylinder 6 injector and check to see if its stuck open.
That's actually a wiser ideia.
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      05-10-2024, 08:40 PM   #21457
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*Sigh* Thought I had resolved my front suspension clunk after doing a front end refresh/upgrade of the arms and sway bar. Took the car for a longer back road drive today and the clunk/popping came back after driving for a while. Only thing not touched was the struts/springs, and it almost sounds/feels like the springs aren't under proper tension. You hear it during bumps in the road and while turning. Engine mounts are 4 years/ 7k miles old, are BW solid rubber and look good from visual inspection. Re-torqued the struts, will see if that makes a difference. Am a little concerned by the corrosion seen on the strut threads. Car is approaching 50k miles, so you'd think it's still pretty fresh. Guess I'm back to square one.
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      05-10-2024, 08:43 PM   #21458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike360 View Post
*Sigh* Thought I had resolved my front suspension clunk after doing a front end refresh/upgrade of the arms and sway bar. Took the car for a longer back road drive today and the clunk/popping came back after driving for a while. Only thing not touched was the struts/springs, and it almost sounds/feels like the springs aren't under proper tension. You hear it during bumps in the road and while turning. Engine mounts are 4 years/ 7k miles old, are BW solid rubber and look good from visual inspection. Re-torqued the struts, will see if that makes a difference. Am a little concerned by the corrosion seen on the strut threads. Car is approaching 50k miles, so you'd think it's still pretty fresh. Guess I'm back to square one.
Does it sound like this?

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      05-10-2024, 10:04 PM   #21459
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Common cause of front clunk going over bumps/driveway at slow speed/turning is inadequately torqued sway bar end links, might need to torque an additional 5 lb ft on top of factory torque spec.
If you have over 100,000 miles, then change end links.
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      05-10-2024, 10:22 PM   #21460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike360 View Post
*Sigh* Thought I had resolved my front suspension clunk after doing a front end refresh/upgrade of the arms and sway bar. Took the car for a longer back road drive today and the clunk/popping came back after driving for a while. Only thing not touched was the struts/springs, and it almost sounds/feels like the springs aren't under proper tension. You hear it during bumps in the road and while turning. Engine mounts are 4 years/ 7k miles old, are BW solid rubber and look good from visual inspection. Re-torqued the struts, will see if that makes a difference. Am a little concerned by the corrosion seen on the strut threads. Car is approaching 50k miles, so you'd think it's still pretty fresh. Guess I'm back to square one.
My problem was this:

Can't remember the name of that part, something like swivel bearing support.

Mine was torqued rotated, making contact to the damper.

Untighten the nut in green, rotate it to straighten up, torque down. Be sure that the part itself (in blue) doesn't rotate again when you're torquing.
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      05-10-2024, 11:19 PM   #21461
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Was hard to tell from the video, but seems to be a very different sound.

Car has fresh SPL end links to the sway bars (Hotchkis), which were double checked by the race shop I use. Shop mentioned that front monoballs can make some noise, but this seems to be separate (and the same sound I noticed before the overhaul). Also re-torqued the steering rack bolts last weekend as a check. Basically everything connecting to the knuckles is new, with the exception of struts.

Sound happens at all speeds, but it does seem to take time or heat for it to start happening. It's quiet when the car is cold. Once it starts, you start turning, you hear a very noticeable pop or series of pops from one side of the car. I think it comes from the inside wheel during a turn; it affects both sides. If I go over a speed bump, it almost feels like there's a bit of slack in the suspension before the pop occurs.
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      05-10-2024, 11:35 PM   #21462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike360 View Post
Was hard to tell from the video, but seems to be a very different sound.

Car has fresh SPL end links to the sway bars (Hotchkis), which were double checked by the race shop I use. Shop mentioned that front monoballs can make some noise, but this seems to be separate (and the same sound I noticed before the overhaul). Also re-torqued the steering rack bolts last weekend as a check. Basically everything connecting to the knuckles is new, with the exception of struts.

Sound happens at all speeds, but it does seem to take time or heat for it to start happening. It's quiet when the car is cold. Once it starts, you start turning, you hear a very noticeable pop or series of pops from one side of the car. I think it comes from the inside wheel during a turn; it affects both sides. If I go over a speed bump, it almost feels like there's a bit of slack in the suspension before the pop occurs.
Any chances of recording it?
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      05-11-2024, 07:17 AM   #21463
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If the sound is not present when cold & comes on after some driving would mean it’s not a loose part. Since everything other than the struts is new, maybe check the strut mounts/top hats, they do wear & also need grease..

Maybe post this question in the suspension/chassis/brake section to get better responses..
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      05-11-2024, 09:05 PM   #21464
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Cleaned my engine bay
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      05-12-2024, 04:35 AM   #21465
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Cleaned my engine bay
Job well done as it looks!
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      05-12-2024, 11:37 AM   #21466
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Job well done as it looks!
Thank you man
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      05-12-2024, 04:10 PM   #21467
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Cleaned up my front brake caliper pins, moved my coil over settings to street, and replaced the spark plugs. Getting ready for a little highway adventure.
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      05-12-2024, 10:12 PM   #21468
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#8 plug and coil always make me rethink my life choices.
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      05-12-2024, 10:41 PM   #21469
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamasM3e93 View Post
Cleaned up my front brake caliper pins, moved my coil over settings to street, and replaced the spark plugs. Getting ready for a little highway adventure.
how do you manage the settings? is it marked on your camber plates, or are you just talking about ride height?
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      05-12-2024, 11:12 PM   #21470
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Got my car back a few days ago from mild midlife surgery. Car has 71k on it, 54k of that under my ownership over 9 years.

Slon vanos covers removed, mporium bolt on covers installed. The covers have been eating at me alive since I found a tab that came undone on one of my slon covers. Now it's resolved forever. I don't ever want to think about vanos covers again.

Since my harrop supercharger had to be removed for the job, I had everything replaced in the valley of the V. Lifetime throttle actuators, idle air control valve, starter motor and fuel breather. Throttle actuators have about 30k on them (OEM replacements), and they originally went at 43k, so it was getting close to time anyway.

Basically all the things you would not want to suddenly go wrong in the middle of nowhere on a m3 with a harrop on it. I enjoy road tripping the car, so this is a major consideration. Finding someone capable of replacing any one of those items and dealing with the harrop could be hundreds of miles away if an incident happens in the wrong place. Doing it yourself requires the venue and the tools.

Not a situation I want to be in. Now the car just needs an oil change and detail and we are ready for summer.
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      05-12-2024, 11:24 PM   #21471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kolosy View Post
how do you manage the settings? is it marked on your camber plates, or are you just talking about ride height?
They’re manually adjusted dampers, firm ride on track , little softer for the street. I have front camber plates but haven’t done the work for the track camber yet.
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      05-13-2024, 05:06 PM   #21472
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2011 BMW E92 M3  [0.00]
Bought some fuel. Used some fuel.

Twas a good rip with some friends. 3 E92s and a Shoe all with a view.
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