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08-04-2021, 06:26 PM | #67 |
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Just a FYI for anybody doing this
The pre May 08 M3 also has a few other differences besides the offset idler pulley. AC belt is shorter and originally uses a 1067 belt Both tensioner pulleys are the same at 70mm Just wondering for anybody that has ordered 70mm pulley listed...... How did you disassemble the pulley from the round backplate and torx bolt since they seemed press fitted together? Did anyone reuse the round backplate with the original bolt or just toss it? |
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IamFODI370.50 Davisca4552219.50 |
08-05-2021, 12:13 AM | #68 | |
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Am I remembering a little crimp feature that needs to be defeated? I know I got it apart though and trash canned the supplied Torx bolt and the backing plate. I reused the original shoulder bolt.
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DrFerry6748.00 |
08-09-2021, 02:18 PM | #69 |
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Unscrewing a bolt from a crimped washer, rings a bell here too.
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Oil analysis for finding wearing rod bearings?. Collation of oil analysis reports with some rod bearing photos for the M3's S65. My categorisation of pulled rod bearings in the rod bearing condition thread. My updated 'Blown engines' list. Last edited by Assimilator1; 03-29-2022 at 01:56 PM.. |
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08-11-2021, 03:09 AM | #70 |
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Eventually got it off by using a vice and breaking the metal retaining tabs on the backplate. Everything back together but never realized how super close the idler pulley is to the water pump pulley. Seems like 1mm between the two and would cause rubbing issues if they were skewed. That's probably why my idler pulley melted and the belt snapped after the bearings seized.... luckily no damage to any other parts. Another FYI The new supplied torx bolts will not fit as previously mentioned because they are too long but have the right pitch and thread so could be used if cut shorter. The supplied plastic cap covers will also not fit the original bolts as the bolt heads are taller than the torx bolts so you will need to order new caps if you lost them |
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08-11-2021, 12:48 PM | #71 | |
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Rollers and cap part numbers can be found here… https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=26791901
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04-16-2022, 12:34 PM | #72 |
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Has anyone noticed that the offset idler pulley has been superseded by the ctr hole idler?! See here - https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4120
Err, so the offset isn't needed anymore?? And anyone know what size the AC tensioner pulley should be for the earlier version?
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Oil analysis for finding wearing rod bearings?. Collation of oil analysis reports with some rod bearing photos for the M3's S65. My categorisation of pulled rod bearings in the rod bearing condition thread. My updated 'Blown engines' list. |
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05-11-2022, 12:34 PM | #73 |
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07-24-2022, 02:43 PM | #74 | |
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For those who've replaced the tensioner pulleys mentioned, what torque spec did you use for the center bolt? I figure I'd use the same as the idler (deflection) pulley, which is 15nm + 70 degrees turn. Does that sound right? Last edited by chutak; 07-24-2022 at 04:50 PM.. |
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07-24-2022, 03:20 PM | #75 | ||
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Factory install had red thread locker on it, so I cleaned the thread locking compound from threads of the bolt and the threads of the tapped hole, cleaned the bolt and tapped hole with alcohol, added Loctite 271 (red) and torqued to 30ft lbs.
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07-24-2022, 04:53 PM | #76 | |
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07-27-2023, 05:25 PM | #77 |
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*SUBSCRIBED*
Anyone interested, I am ordering the Continental Elite Poly V belt in addition to the pulleys. These belts have the "gatorback" cutouts so that the belts themselves are even more quiet via acoustic-cancelation. Waterpump & Alternator: CONTINENTAL ELITE 4060575 A/C & PS Pump: (clockwise pre-May 2008) Continental Elite 4060420
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02-09-2024, 01:48 PM | #78 | |
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The pulley is the exact same - the only difference is the bolt length. Discard the included bolt and re-use your very long idler bolt. You can use the new sheet metal dust shield, it is the same as the old one. BMW 11287535860 (for N52 with short bolt) INA 5320512100 aka 532 0512 10 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...60#description On the 70mm pulley, you can use a pick or small screwdriver to break the crimps (they are weak) on the included cast washer and it will slide / unscrew right off. Also attached is a pic of my 117K mile belts compared to a new one. No cracks but the grooves are deep. The pulleys that came off my car were also still tight and greased, but replacing them at my mileage seemed like a good idea. When re-installing the belts, I found it easiest to slide the belt over the smooth pulleys - specifically the tensioner pulley on both the alternator and AC sides. On the AC side you must have the belt already looped over the fixed idler pulley before screwing the idler pulley in or there is not enough space to squeeze the belt in between the pulley and fixed oil line. |
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