Cost of rod bearing replacement

[lsmkr01]

You guys are definitely making a case for running a lighter weight oil during the colder half of the year and the normal weight for the warmer half. Adjusting the change frequesncy based on what your running is easy and as others have mentioned 0-W40 is relativly cheap.

Keep us posted Warot, i'm very interested on your impressions when you get to the 4k mile mark on the 0-W40. I'm always down for a drive so can help motivate you to rack up those miles

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by lsmkr01

You guys are definitely making a case for running a lighter weight oil during the colder half of the year and the normal weight for the warmer half. Adjusting the change frequesncy based on what your running is easy and as others have mentioned 0-W40 is relativly cheap.

Keep us posted Warot, i'm very interested on your impressions when you get to the 4k mile mark on the 0-W40. I'm always down for a drive so can help motivate you to rack up those miles

I was running it the last time we did a mountain run.

[jbraslins]

Wonder if statistically rod bearing failures we are all scared of are happening more often in areas with cold winters/fall/spring, or warm areas too.

[aussiem3]

Originally Posted by jbraslins

Wonder if statistically rod bearing failures we are all scared of are happening more often in areas with cold winters/fall/spring, or warm areas too.

The one I know of happened where you get sunshine year round.

[lsmkr01]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

I was running it the last time we did a mountain run.

How many miles did you have one the oil at the time? How long have oyu been running the lighter weight? any observation/differences that when you ran 10-W60? How did the oil look when you changed it or have you not changed it out yet?

Was your car Warot's twin? I can't remember which E92 was yours.

[JEllis]

Originally Posted by BMRLVR

10W60 is known to shear into a 40W within a 1000 miles so the numbers you are quoting are not applicable here. The 0W40 is certified for use in cars that are just as or even more taxing on oil than the S65/S85 and it has all the viscosity you need as referenced by it's HTHS number of 3.8.

The 10W60 is more marketing than a requirement......BMW's agreement with Castrol and their development costs for Castrol to make a specific "M" oil has to be justified somehow! The blanket recommendation of TWS 10W60 with no alternatives or chart showing recommended viscosity depending on outside temperature is a dead giveaway of this marketing agreement!

While I do not disagree this argument reminds me of when I tried to tell all the Porsche guys to switch from Mobil 1 to Castrol. Everyone was up in arms and my point was that Mobils partnership with Porsche is really the only driving factor in why the engine lids on our cars have Mobil 1 stickers. That being said, I am more skeptical switching from one weight of oil to a significantly different one. Castrol could have easily developed a street version of 0w-40 or used Castrol 5w-40 which is a Porsche approved oil.

I guess its possible.

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

The 0-40 is being run by alot of gtr guys that make way more power than even a blown m3 does. The cylinder pressure in them is probably double what we make. Unless the oil is being run over 260 then it is not near as thin as you think. Shoot, we race a 40wt to over 10k rpm for hours on end at 300 degrees. Granted in a thousand miles it is used up but the point is a 40wt is much stronger than what it is given credit for.
I have been running it for 2 oil changes and I have not added oil yet, it does not burn enough to even notice. I change it every 4k miles just because it is lighter and the fact it takes 15 minutes and cost 60 bucks.

My temps on the track are typically around 270 and have peaked closer to 280. Granted this was a 115 degree track day... do you recommend 0W-40 in these conditions or stick with 10W-60?

Originally Posted by W///

In terms of the way it acts in daily driving conditions, it's the same. Like I said, 93F heat, in stop and go situations, it didn't go any higher than my old 10W60 did, but it does heat up to 170 faster.

I will keep an eye out when I go for a more spirited run, and check the oil consumption over my 5000 mile interval.

P.S. My car has never seen temps over 240F on any oil. So I can't comment for guys that track their M's in hot weather.

I have heard during summer track days the S65 will sit around 270 degrees. I think it depends on location and track temps. I have personally seen 270 degrees at the end of a session and a peak of 280. Ambient temps were 115 degrees and the track temp was probably well above that. Getting the oil up to temp faster is a good thing. I will say you guys make a compelling case for 0W-40. I am not willing to switch yet but I am eager for more results.

[PandaM3]

Id switch oils, but don't want to loose my extended warranty... I'm even considering flashing my software back to stock and reinstalling the cats incase something catastrophic where to happen because of the rod bearings to ensure no warranty issues.

The thinner weight makes more sense considering the tighter clearances. If BMW comes out with a recommendation to use thinner weight oils then I would get Motul 300V in a 40 wt. It resists any shearing or breakdown at higher temps and it coats/ impregnates all the engine parts that engine builders have noticed when rebuilding race engines running 300V which is probably beneficial for the rod bearings.

If tests show that the Castrol 10w-60 shears down to a 40wt oil... Then a good 40wt should be fine.

But this is all theory and speculation until the BMW M engineers come out and say what we need to do....

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by PandaM3

Id switch oils, but don't want to loose my extended warranty... I'm even considering flashing my software back to stock and reinstalling the cats incase something catastrophic where to happen because of the rod bearings to ensure no warranty issues.

The thinner weight makes more sense considering the tighter clearances. If BMW comes out with a recommendation to use thinner weight oils then I would get Motul 300V in a 40 wt. It resists any shearing or breakdown at higher temps and it coats/ impregnates all the engine parts that engine builders have noticed when rebuilding race engines running 300V which is probably beneficial for the rod bearings.

If tests show that the Castrol 10w-60 shears down to a 40wt oil... Then a good 40wt should be fine.

But this is all theory and speculation until the BMW M engineers come out and say what we need to do....

If you are in warranty then dont switch oil for sure but there is nothing better about motul than any other top grade oil.
It is actually not theory, it has been proven by people rebuilding them documenting the clearances and by multiple threads about failures and or bearing changes across the globe and every single one of them has severely worn bearings. I have yet to see satisfactory looking bearings.
Seems as though the engineers are the ones that landed many people in this pickle to start with. Do you really want to listen to the guy sitting behind the desk running the computer mouse all day or would you rather trust people that do it for a living. Just like the old m5s that were 10-60 then 5-30 then back to 10-60 or who knows.

[PandaM3]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

If you are in warranty then dont switch oil for sure but there is nothing better about motul than any other top grade oil.
It is actually not theory, it has been proven by people rebuilding them documenting the clearances and by multiple threads about failures and or bearing changes across the globe and every single one of them has severely worn bearings. I have yet to see satisfactory looking bearings.
Seems as though the engineers are the ones that landed many people in this pickle to start with. Do you really want to listen to the guy sitting behind the desk running the computer mouse all day or would you rather trust people that do it for a living. Just like the old m5s that were 10-60 then 5-30 then back to 10-60 or who knows.

Agreed... It's not theory... Just wish BMW would officially say something...

This is really ruining my M experience and kinda worried that evidence on the ecu of being flashes to ESS software and my primary cat delete may cause me to loose my extended warranty if the engine goes BOOM!!!

Considering to just flash it back to stock... Or at the extreme case sell the car and get a Lexus IS-F since the engine and trans are from the Lexus LS 460... I should be worry free and have 95% of the performance of the M3

[W///]

Originally Posted by PandaM3

Agreed... It's not theory... Just wish BMW would officially say something...

This is really ruining my M experience and kinda worried that evidence on the ecu of being flashes to ESS software and my primary cat delete may cause me to loose my extended warranty if the engine goes BOOM!!!

Considering to just flash it back to stock... Or at the extreme case sell the car and get a Lexus IS-F since the engine and trans are from the Lexus LS 460... I should be worry free and have 95% of the performance of the M3

Tune shouldn't be traceable anyway.

I'm out of warranty, so this is a no brainer.

Took the car on an 8 hour drive in hot weather, no problems

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by W///

Tune shouldn't be traceable anyway.

If the rev limit was raised or the top speed limiter was removed I think it permanently changes the ecu, they can always tell.

[jbraslins]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

If the rev limit was raised or the top speed limiter was removed I think it permanently changes the ecu, they can always tell.

That is why I left my rpm and top speed governor alone. Unless you doing air-strip runs, you not going to hit 155mph anyway.

I hit 136mph on back straight of VIR this weekend. Even if I knew how to drive well I doubt you can get to 155 there without FI.

[whats77inaname]

Originally Posted by PandaM3

Agreed... It's not theory... Just wish BMW would officially say something...

This is really ruining my M experience and kinda worried that evidence on the ecu of being flashes to ESS software and my primary cat delete may cause me to loose my extended warranty if the engine goes BOOM!!!

Considering to just flash it back to stock... Or at the extreme case sell the car and get a Lexus IS-F since the engine and trans are from the Lexus LS 460... I should be worry free and have 95% of the performance of the M3

At this point, if BMW were to admit a mistake, you can bet they would be on the hook for a class action, no doubt in my mind.

As far as the Lexus is concerned, just keep your oil as is during your warranty period, make sure the car is warmed up, and have fun with it! After your warranty is out, just be aware that you have bearing maintenance at some point that you'll be responsible for, and call it a day.

[PandaM3]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

If the rev limit was raised or the top speed limiter was removed I think it permanently changes the ecu, they can always tell.

Luckily I didn't have the rev limit raised, but I dunno if the top speed limiter was taken off by default...

Anyhow, It's not the manufacturer's extended warranty and I am not required to bring it to BMW for warranty work. I can go to any ASE certified mechanic.

I'm guessing that if something where to happen the warranty company will send their own inspector out... not BMW's inspector...

[jbraslins]

Originally Posted by PandaM3

Luckily I didn't have the rev limit raised, but I dunno if the top speed limiter was taken off by default...

Anyhow, It's not the manufacturer's extended warranty and I am not required to bring it to BMW for warranty work. I can go to any ASE certified mechanic.

I'm guessing that if something where to happen the warranty company will send their own inspector out... not BMW's inspector...

I am debating whether to get extended warranty or not for mine. As I do more research and read rip-off reports online, I think it's not likely an extended warranty company would cover a 24K bill easily. If anything, it would be a many month long battle. They'll most likely refuse to cover it at first sign of any mods, or lack of detailed service records.

[PandaM3]

Originally Posted by jbraslins

I am debating whether to get extended warranty or not for mine. As I do more research and read rip-off reports online, I think it's not likely an extended warranty company would cover a 24K bill easily. If anything, it would be a many month long battle. They'll most likely refuse to cover it at first sign of any mods, or lack of detailed service records.

I checked with several certified ASE mechanics... One place specializes in BMW's, another on Audi's and VW's, as well as a third that is just an indy european car shop... They all told me that the warranty I have is easy for them to work with (i have MaxCare through Carmax). In fact the VW/Audi tech said they managed to get an engine replaced under warranty through Maxcare with no issues.

As far as service records, I have all my receipts for all my service as well as receipts and blackstone oil reports from my diy oil changes and stuff. If anything the car is overly maintained.

[gatorfast]

Originally Posted by jbraslins

I am debating whether to get extended warranty or not for mine. As I do more research and read rip-off reports online, I think it's not likely an extended warranty company would cover a 24K bill easily. If anything, it would be a many month long battle. They'll most likely refuse to cover it at first sign of any mods, or lack of detailed service records.

Get the BMW "powertrain plus" warranty. Covers all the major components like the engine, transmission, etc.

[juvi22003]

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I'm curious if rod bearings replacement still costing around the same?

I saw this car on bringatrailer.com and very interested in placing a bid but on the engine video it does sound like some kind of knocking. Jmd guy here any experts want to let me know if i should throw a bid in and how much should this go for I'm thinking around 20-25k?

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...coupe-6-speed/

[spammysammich]

Originally Posted by juvi22003

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I'm curious if rod bearings replacement still costing around the same?

I saw this car on bringatrailer.com and very interested in placing a bid but on the engine video it does sound like some kind of knocking. Jmd guy here and experts want to let me know if i should throw a bid in and how much should this go for I'm thinking around 20-25k?

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...coupe-6-speed/

Throwing a set of bearings in that car isn’t going to fix the damage they’re doing to the crank by running it with spun bearings. That will need a whole new engine and oil cooler. The mains and crank are likely damaged. Unless you got a spare s65 to throw in it hard pass. There are many threads on the cost of the bearing service and it boils down to region. 1700-3000 depending.

[juvi22003]

Originally Posted by spammysammich

Throwing a set of bearings in that car isn’t going to fix the damage they’re doing to the crank by running it with spun bearings. That will need a whole new engine and oil cooler. The mains and crank are likely damaged. Unless you got a spare s65 to throw in it hard pass. There are many threads on the cost of the bearing service and it boils down to region. 1700-3000 depending.

Appreciate your input
Manuals are becoming so rare to find and in good condition I really don't want to settle for a DCT
If it sells for 10k or less then i could possible afford just doing an engine swap

[pjk380]

I would pass as that engine doesnt sound right. IMO $20k is too much. RB replacement cost is still about the same.

[spammysammich]

I hope we’re all wrong about the knock. But there are better cars out there with better sounding engines. And that steering wheel made me want to vomit, did the owner eat ALL the fried chicken every time he drove the car?