DIY - Replacement of Valve covers - Pic Heavy

[lmb.m3]

Originally Posted by Redd

BMW-11417526315 is the cam sensor bolt. You only need 4, not 12.

Not recommended to re-use the valve cover bolts. They have a rubber grommet that hardens with age and can leak oil.

I was under the impression that we're also replacing the same 8 bolts on the oil separators too (x4 each side / no.6;11417526315 on the screenshot I posted above), hence why I added another 8 on top of the 4 for cam sensors (x2 each side / no.15;11417526315 on the realoem screenshot I posted above). I replaced my valve covers yesterday and ended up using all 12

[herbertt]

are you still offering this service? I'm interested if you are.

[Vedubin01]

Originally Posted by herbertt

are you still offering this service? I'm interested if you are.

I’ve kinda upped the game and now making aluminum valve covers that have a lifetime warranty.

Feel free to PM me for details

[herbertt]

Im a new member so I cant pm until a certain number of posts, are you on ig? My ig: canyon_carverr

[Vedubin01]

Originally Posted by herbertt

Im a new member so I cant pm until a certain number of posts, are you on ig? My ig: canyon_carverr

nrw_design_

[agenator]

Looks like the Drei Bond (07589062376) has been discontinued and replaced with BMW Loctite 5970 Chemical Sealant - Genuine BMW 83190404517, according to FCP. I am going to use new valves covers and replace the timing cover gasket so I won't be needing any, but just a heads up for those that need it!

[agenator]

NRW also makes just the rubber grommets for the valve cover bolts. I am thinking about getting them and reusing the bolts. Has anyone done this yet?

[LKN624]

Originally Posted by agenator

Looks like the Drei Bond (07589062376) has been discontinued and replaced with BMW Loctite 5970 Chemical Sealant - Genuine BMW 83190404517, according to FCP. I am going to use new valves covers and replace the timing cover gasket so I won't be needing any, but just a heads up for those that need it!

You can still get the Dreibond…just search for Dreibond 1209 and that’s what the BMW one is without the BMW part number.

[boostin1004]

Originally Posted by agenator

NRW also makes just the rubber grommets for the valve cover bolts. I am thinking about getting them and reusing the bolts. Has anyone done this yet?

I spoke with them about this and am going to try them out. I'm currently doing an engine out service so I'll post pictures after the valve covers with nrw grommets are installed.

[Vedubin01]

Originally Posted by agenator

NRW also makes just the rubber grommets for the valve cover bolts. I am thinking about getting them and reusing the bolts. Has anyone done this yet?

Sold over 300 sets so far and not one issue or complaint.

[Savage_M3]

Originally Posted by Vedubin01

I’ve kinda upped the game and now making aluminum valve covers that have a lifetime warranty.

Feel free to PM me for details

Any pics of this set installed? Looks gorgeous!

[DrFerry]

Originally Posted by Savage_M3

Any pics of this set installed? Looks gorgeous!

I think Vedubin01 was banned recently. Scroll this thread to find his instagram.

[Fons15]

Thank you for taking the time to document this process. I'm looking forward to my gasket change next year.

[rated_m3]

Originally Posted by boostin1004

I spoke with them about this and am going to try them out. I'm currently doing an engine out service so I'll post pictures after the valve covers with nrw grommets are installed.

Were you able to find out if you can use the new grommets with the old bolts?

[Mr. M3]

Quick question, the NRW grommet set has 26 grommets for the valve cover bolts. Are the 2 extra grommets for the collar screws 11127841218 or just 2 extras for the 24 bolts 11127841217?

[Veracity]

Originally Posted by rated_m3

Were you able to find out if you can use the new grommets with the old bolts?

Yes

Originally Posted by Mr. M3

Quick question, the NRW grommet set has 26 grommets for the valve cover bolts. Are the 2 extra grommets for the collar screws 11127841218 or just 2 extras for the 24 bolts 11127841217?

Collar screws as well.

[brettcp]

Just did this job on my 2012 M3 (126k miles) as I had some minor seeping on both sides, not enough to drip oil below the car but given that its been seeping for a while I figured it was time to get this done.

I replaced both valve cover gaskets, spark plug tubes, grommets, all o-rings on the camshaft sensors and oil separators, and both timing cover gaskets.

A few notes:

- The old grommets were toast. I used the NRW replacement grommet set which worked well.

- The driver side was more difficult than the passenger side, be prepared to spend longer on the driver side. That last bolt at the rear was a pain to get to.

- Remove the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors, only takes a minute to do so and makes this job much easier for removing/re-installing the valve covers on both sides.

- Have various lengths of 10mm sockets and/or extensions on hand. I found there to be a lot of switching between socket/extension lengths needed to get to all the bolts around the valve covers.

- I replaced all of the o-rings for the camshaft position sensors and oil separators, but I don't think that replacing the 12x screws (P/N 11417526315) was necessary. These aren't high torque, mine were in perfect condition, but since I'd already purchased them I went ahead and replaced them anyway.

- Don't bother with the URO brand spark plug tubes. The rubber seals seem to be poor quality. Use OEM BMW or the NRW tubes (I used the NRW billet aluminum tubes, they have a much better rubber seal).

[DrFerry]

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[TheMechanic]

Originally Posted by brettcp

Just did this job on my 2012 M3 (126k miles) as I had some minor seeping on both sides, not enough to drip oil below the car but given that its been seeping for a while I figured it was time to get this done.

I replaced both valve cover gaskets, spark plug tubes, grommets, all o-rings on the camshaft sensors and oil separators, and both timing cover gaskets.

A few notes:

- The old grommets were toast. I used the NRW replacement grommet set which worked well.

- The driver side was more difficult than the passenger side, be prepared to spend longer on the driver side. That last bolt at the rear was a pain to get to.

- Remove the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors, only takes a minute to do so and makes this job much easier for removing/re-installing the valve covers on both sides.

- Have various lengths of 10mm sockets and/or extensions on hand. I found there to be a lot of switching between socket/extension lengths needed to get to all the bolts around the valve covers.

- I replaced all of the o-rings for the camshaft position sensors and oil separators, but I don't think that replacing the 12x screws (P/N 11417526315) was necessary. These aren't high torque, mine were in perfect condition, but since I'd already purchased them I went ahead and replaced them anyway.

- Don't bother with the URO brand spark plug tubes. The rubber seals seem to be poor quality. Use OEM BMW or the NRW tubes (I used the NRW billet aluminum tubes, they have a much better rubber seal).

Did you re-use the actual valve covers or replaced them entirely? I am trying to decide if I really need to buy new covers, or just replace all seals and gaskets. I also have minimal seeping around, no leaks (yet).

Thanks

[nah dude]

Originally Posted by DrFerry

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I just did this job with NRW covers, gaskets, spark plug tubes, new stainless bolts and grommets. I used this video as a guide as I went through and it's interesting how many things they got wrong during the install. They said to torque the VC bolts to 10nm. The spec is 6nm. He also misplaced the ground studs to different locations in the valve covers. Not sure that it really matters, but he's using different than OEM location.

Also if you notice they're using some nice stainless valve cover bolts in the video, these are available and are much nicer looking than the stock OEM bolts. You can find these if you search google for "fcp s65 stainless steel valve cover bolts"

Another thing - be sure to tighten the camshaft sensor bolts. Not sure what the torque spec is for those but mine were hand tight and that wasn't good enough. Started getting VANOS codes and eventually CEL came up for camshaft position sensor. Tightened it and cleared the codes and it was all good.