Fuel it 650hp fuel pump

[Delfan]

Hi

Hoping to get some advice as struggling to get this fuel pump kit wired up and working correctly.

I emailed fuel it multiple times but haven't had any response.

Has anyone had experience with this kit? Some advice on wiring the hobbs switch to the relay would be great

Also the fuel gauge will only ever read 3/4 full

[amrazM]

yes.

for one, throw away the hobbs switch that comes with the kit, get a honeywell pressure switch. second test the new hobbs switch and set it to close the ground at the desired pressure which is probably 4psi.

on the fuel pump, ground to the chassis, use a clean ground preferably the ground terminal.

86- run to switched battery voltage
85- run to Hobbs switch pin 1
30- run to battery voltage use larger gauge wire here for pump power.
87- run to fuel pump power side.

Hobbs switch
pin 1- to relay pin 85
pin 2- chassis ground

if your tank doesnt read full something is blocking the measuring unit

[Bakerboy]

I will be fitting one of these in the next 2 weeks

Hope you sort it soon

Heard it’s a tight fit getting it all back in

[amrazM]

Originally Posted by Bakerboy

I will be fitting one of these in the next 2 weeks

Hope you sort it soon

Heard it’s a tight fit getting it all back in

try not to do it with the tank too full or youll be wrist deep in a tank of gasoline. its never a pleasant experience.

[Delfan]

Originally Posted by amrazM

yes.

for one, throw away the hobbs switch that comes with the kit, get a honeywell pressure switch. second test the new hobbs switch and set it to close the ground at the desired pressure which is probably 4psi.

on the fuel pump, ground to the chassis, use a clean ground preferably the ground terminal.

86- run to switched battery voltage
85- run to Hobbs switch pin 1
30- run to battery voltage use larger gauge wire here for pump power.
87- run to fuel pump power side.

Hobbs switch
pin 1- to relay pin 85
pin 2- chassis ground

if your tank doesnt read full something is blocking the measuring unit

Thank you for taking the time to reply. I'll check over my wiring at the weekend.
I've tested my hobb switch and it is configured to close the circuit at 4psi.

Do I still need to run fuses for the battery switched? Etc

[amrazM]

Originally Posted by Delfan

Thank you for taking the time to reply. I'll check over my wiring at the weekend.
I've tested my hobb switch and it is configured to close the circuit at 4psi.

Do I still need to run fuses for the battery switched? Etc

You only need a fuse on the 12V direct to battery.

[lonatic]

Originally Posted by amrazM

yes.

for one, throw away the hobbs switch that comes with the kit, get a honeywell pressure switch. second test the new hobbs switch and set it to close the ground at the desired pressure which is probably 4psi.

on the fuel pump, ground to the chassis, use a clean ground preferably the ground terminal.

86- run to switched battery voltage
85- run to Hobbs switch pin 1
30- run to battery voltage use larger gauge wire here for pump power.
87- run to fuel pump power side.

Hobbs switch
pin 1- to relay pin 85
pin 2- chassis ground

if your tank doesnt read full something is blocking the measuring unit

Agreed can’t stress enough the Hobbs switch with the kit is complete trash. I ordered the Honeywell one and worked like a charm.

[Delfan]

Originally Posted by lonatic

Agreed can’t stress enough the Hobbs switch with the kit is complete trash. I ordered the Honeywell one and worked like a charm.

Do you have a part number? They aren't readily available in the UK so will look to have one shipped

[lonatic]

Originally Posted by Delfan

Do you have a part number? They aren't readily available in the UK so will look to have one shipped

M4006-4 I believe

[AtlasM3]

Originally Posted by amrazM

yes.

for one, throw away the hobbs switch that comes with the kit, get a honeywell pressure switch. second test the new hobbs switch and set it to close the ground at the desired pressure which is probably 4psi.

on the fuel pump, ground to the chassis, use a clean ground preferably the ground terminal.

86- run to switched battery voltage
85- run to Hobbs switch pin 1
30- run to battery voltage use larger gauge wire here for pump power.
87- run to fuel pump power side.

Hobbs switch
pin 1- to relay pin 85
pin 2- chassis ground

if your tank doesnt read full something is blocking the measuring unit

Hello everybody
Why do you say the Hobbs switch is trash?

I ask this because we are in the middle of editing and we are having a problem getting it to work... even fixed

And the switch must intervene at 6 psi, is 4 psi, as you indicate with the HoneyWell M4006-4, safe?

:arc:

[amrazM]

I am using a honey well 76575-4 N/0, its designed to work at 1-10PSI

[Delfan]

Originally Posted by amrazM

I am using a honey well 76575-4 N/0, its designed to work at 1-10PSI

Same one I bought aswell. So far so good

[SalimM3]

Anyone have some tips on how to pull the factory fuel pump assembly out? I have the transfer pump hose disconnected and the main hose disconnected but the additional assembly that sits off to the side of the main fuel pump bucket is preventing me from pulling the assembly upward. I disconnected that vent hose but that white clip is still in the way. Any tips on what to remove to be able to lift this thing out?

[Delfan]

Originally Posted by SalimM3

Anyone have some tips on how to pull the factory fuel pump assembly out? I have the transfer pump hose disconnected and the main hose disconnected but the additional assembly that sits off to the side of the main fuel pump bucket is preventing me from pulling the assembly upward. I disconnected that vent hose but that white clip is still in the way. Any tips on what to remove to be able to lift this thing out?

I literally had my pump out yesterday

Unlcip the white part from the bucket and as the bucket is about to clear the opening you need to tilt it at an angle for the level float and feeder tube to clear.

Sometimes I've had it out easy and sometimes it's a pain in the ass

[FazerBoy]

I have an ESS G1 supercharger - which I think is supposed to put out 625bhp. It seems to work fine.

Do I need this upgraded fuel pump?

[Delfan]

Originally Posted by FazerBoy

I have an ESS G1 supercharger - which I think is supposed to put out 625bhp. It seems to work fine.

Do I need this upgraded fuel pump?

No I wouldn't bother

[FazerBoy]

Originally Posted by Delfan

No I wouldn't bother

Thanks man! I don’t really want to keep shelling out more cash on the car…lol

[Soden82]

Originally Posted by FazerBoy

I have an ESS G1 supercharger - which I think is supposed to put out 625bhp. It seems to work fine.

Do I need this upgraded fuel pump?

Only if you plan to run ethanol

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by Soden82

Only if you plan to run ethanol

doesn't hurt to have more headroom for fueling.

[_Mozes_e93m3]

I have a ess g1 supercharger. just wondering where did you install Hobb switch too. if u can show me a pic that will be amazing.

[SalimM3]

Originally Posted by _Mozes_e93m3

I have a ess g1 supercharger. just wondering where did you install Hobb switch too. if u can show me a pic that will be amazing.

So i got this vacuum distribution block on Amazon and I feed the main vacuum line from under the intake manifold to it. From there it feeds the BOV, the P3 gauge, and i screwed the Hobbs switch into it. I am not done with the setup yet but this is the current plan.

[_Mozes_e93m3]

Originally Posted by SalimM3

So i got this vacuum distribution block on Amazon and I feed the main vacuum line from under the intake manifold to it. From there it feeds the BOV, the P3 gauge, and i screwed the Hobbs switch into it. I am not done with the setup yet but this is the current plan.

niceeee, I figured it was going to connect to that exact vacuum line. now that u showed me this I'm going to finish this asap. love the help from fellow enthusiasts.

another question??

I have the led steering wheel and the p3 gauge connected to the obd2 port(using a obd2 splitter). apparently they both don't like to work together. steering wheel works fine but the p3 gauge is struggling to power fully on. I was thinking of using an 12v fuse in the glove box to power the 12v power wire on p3. what's your thoughts on this?? and do you think this would work?