Mr12Volt P2000 - Carplay/Android Auto w/M.O.S.T *New Model Update*

[DavesZed]

Originally Posted by Adam M

Hi all,

I need a bit of help here from the UK.

After months of planning I have finally started a CIC retrofit with HD tuner and combox into my CCC equipped E93 M3. I thought sod it and bought the MR12V at the same time.

Yesterday I started installing, but have not managed to get any picture on the screen yet. I can't figure out what might cause this so have removed all extras and now have a system of just CIC, Screen and MR12V. The MR12V is correctly connected and working as I've managed to pair a phone with it that seems to be showing a carplay connection. I am not worried about sound or nav at this stage as that will be fixed with coding.

The question is, for testing purposes, to isolate as many variables as possible, I'm going to remove the MR12V from interrupting the display LVDS output from the CIC, so that the CIC connects directly to the screen.

Am I right in thinking I can leave the IDrive controller connection of the MR12V plugged in, as it doesn't actually interfere with anything? What I mean is, does the iDrive control signal require the MR12V to be on, the iDrive to function normally?

So far all my testing has seen the video signal go through the carplay, I suppose it could be a jumper switch issue.

Main problem is I have no idea if my ebay bought CIC is working as it should.

Adam,

Firstly is your car programmed for CDC (did it have a CD Changer or prep for one, VO code 672 or 694)? If it is, then has the replacement headunit been coded to your car?

[Adam M]

Nothing has been coded at all yet but I am lead to believe this will just result in no sound.

I can confirm by looking at the wires of the MR12V that the stock set up functions exactly as normal even if you completely unplug the MR12V box. It does not break the existing connections it just adds to them.

My issue is not with the mr12v. I’m just trying to ensure my new cic unit is working.

Initially the can bus wires of the screen were the wrong way round, I have changed that now and just get a red screen for 20 seconds or so. This screen appears whether the lvds cable is plugged into the cic or not.

The cable is an aftermarket one and from what I’ve read is a common source of the dreaded red screen.

I’m buying an oem tomorrow and will test. If I do get any kind of normal image on the screen then I send the cic off for coding and finish the install off properly.

Btw my car did come with a cd changer, no idea if the new cic unit did but when getting it coded to my chassis number I’ll spec that along with the combox and tv tuner I have to go in.

[DavesZed]

Originally Posted by Adam M

Nothing has been coded at all yet but I am lead to believe this will just result in no sound.

I can confirm by looking at the wires of the MR12V that the stock set up functions exactly as normal even if you completely unplug the MR12V box. It does not break the existing connections it just adds to them.

My issue is not with the mr12v. I’m just trying to ensure my new cic unit is working.

Initially the can bus wires of the screen were the wrong way round, I have changed that now and just get a red screen for 20 seconds or so. This screen appears whether the lvds cable is plugged into the cic or not.

The cable is an aftermarket one and from what I’ve read is a common source of the dreaded red screen.

I’m buying an oem tomorrow and will test. If I do get any kind of normal image on the screen then I send the cic off for coding and finish the install off properly.

Btw my car did come with a cd changer, no idea if the new cic unit did but when getting it coded to my chassis number I’ll spec that along with the combox and tv tuner I have to go in.

Using a genuine original LVDS cable is a must, so that's a good start that you are getting one, so hopefully that'll sort the red screen issue out.

Just for info..... The Mr12volt box connects into the MOST fibre optic line and continues the loop. And the iDrive controller is similar in that it also breaks (actually piggy-backs) into the CanBus and power lines (picks up the CanBus signals and power for the operation of the MMI box. Also with the LVDS, absolutely 100% make sure you have them the right way round!

As for coding, if you're having it sent away (presumably for Nav and Connected Drive to work! ) then having the cars VO cvoded to it would be a very good idea (never come across this being done remotely before though as they'd need the reading froom the CAS or FRM! I could be wrong though)

Keep us informed

[Adam M]

Apparently FRM coding can be done on the bench.

I didn’t realise LVDS cables were directional - I assume there are arrows somewhere?

Would this alone give a red screen or simply a reduced quality picture. As stated, the unit behaves identically whether plugged in or not, so currently it would be as if the cable were completely severed - I find this unlikely.

[Adam M]

New cable arrived this morning and fitted - only goes in one way due to orientation of 90 degree angle of connector so the directional thing not an issue.

Worked immediately .

So relieved - thanks for the help guys.

[DavesZed]

Originally Posted by Adam M

Apparently FRM coding can be done on the bench.

Fair play, but must still have to pick up your VO from somewhere!

Originally Posted by Adam M

I didn’t realise LVDS cables were directional - I assume there are arrows somewhere?

Would this alone give a red screen or simply a reduced quality picture. As stated, the unit behaves identically whether plugged in or not, so currently it would be as if the cable were completely severed - I find this unlikely.

I meant the LVDS for the Mr12volt box

[DavesZed]

Originally Posted by Adam M

New cable arrived this morning and fitted - only goes in one way due to orientation of 90 degree angle of collector so the directional thing not an issue.

Worked immediately .

So relieved - thanks for the help guys.

I see you've got the SOS issue, plenty of answers to this over on the E9* forums to clear this
https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16

[Adam M]

SOS warning will be because nothing has been coded yet - I am told combox retrofit means I lose telematics and so have to code out SOS warning.

BTW. I disconnected the new cable and reinserted the MR12V in line to get it to work. The screen was once again red until the cable was plugged in to the MR12V.

At that point I couldn't see a carplay screen, but as stated, I don't know how the CIC is coded yet. Will get coding sorted (in the car) next week sometime.

At the mo I'm struggling to repurpose the inputs, aerial and otherwise from the TCU and MULF into the COMBOX.

trying to find an appropriate thread.

[DavesZed]

Originally Posted by Adam M

SOS warning will be because nothing has been coded yet - I am told combox retrofit means I lose telematics and so have to code out SOS warning.

Originally Posted by Adam M

BTW. I disconnected the new cable and reinserted the MR12V in line to get it to work. The screen was once again red until the cable was plugged in to the MR12V.

At that point I couldn't see a carplay screen, but as stated, I don't know how the CIC is coded yet. Will get coding sorted (in the car) next week sometime.

To access the MMI box menu screen you start from the main CIC Menu, at the top there is "CD/Multimedia" go into this and choose the top option "CD/DVD" and all being well the MMI Menu will appear. If not then it'll be one of two things...
1) CDC is not in the VO yet.
2) If you see the words "Mr12volt" instead of "CD-ROM" on Disc 1 space then it's time to do some specific coding of the trace file within the headunit to allow MP3 playback, but this may actually do it automatically anyway.

Originally Posted by Adam M

At the mo I'm struggling to repurpose the inputs, aerial and otherwise from the TCU and MULF into the COMBOX.

trying to find an appropriate thread.

You may need specific adaptors for these, check out the Tech section over on the E9* group (as I posted yesterday above) as there is loads of info over there to sort all your retrofits issuses out

[Adam M]

Thanks for all the above.

Thread hijack over!

[Adam M]

Ok,

Back on topic,

CIC and combox in, cd multiplayer coded in (I assume), tv tuner in too.

All the above were coded into the CIC whilst it was on the bench.

I am fairly certain I have an open most loop but believe this will just stop sound getting through.

My issue is my inability to load the CarPlay screen.

The device is powered and the phone is able to connect to it but from the cd multiplay screen all I get is the following. What am I missing?

[tdott]

Originally Posted by Adam M

CIC and combox in, cd multiplayer coded in (I assume), tv tuner in too.

Now sure what you mean by multiplayer. The coding needed is CDMM_CHANGER_3 to mp3_cdc as mentioned in the first post.

Did you confirm that was done?

[Adam M]

By multiplayer I mean cd changer.

I believe it has been done in that the screen above shows the six locations where a cd would be loaded.

Does an open most loop prevent the unit functioning at all?

[samak]

So I got around to installing my dsp unit this weekend and could not have done it without this thread and a few youtube videos. Mostly a lurker but figured I'd give a summary for anyone in a similar situation. I also have some lingering questions.

I have an '07 e91 328xi 6mt with ccc L7 and dealer installed ipod integration kit.

First I went and pulled a CIC unit, screen and lvds cable from a u-pull-it yard for $35. Got lucky and everything worked on the retrofit and followed a youtube video to get the sound to work using ncs expert.

I did not swap over to the cic controller/knob since the car I pulled from didn't have the same aluminum trim as my car. Mr12volt cic dsp unit worked fine with this setup with a few comments below!:

1: My ccc knob somewhat works. It scrolls and selects things perfectly but I cannot go up down right or left to skip a few scrolls (I did not mess with dip switches. Not sure if anyone else has and gotten the same configuration working (cic unit with ccc controller). I saw a post earlier from mr12volt saying the ccc controller would not work at all with the cic mr12volt unit so at least I have 75% functionality.

2: For my car without pdc and with a 6mt, I could not get the green yi camera to activate without tapping a reverse signal. Seems others have seen the same. That is now a later project once I figure out how to do it cleanly on a wagon as all the DIYs Ive seen are on sedans/verts. (need to figure out how to get through all the insulation on the wagon hatch to access the handle, as well as the least sketchy way to tap the reverse light signal).

3: As stated before, the ipod integration kit will not work in tandem with mr12volt. I had to unpin the ipod cabling and fiber cables (the hardest part was opening the optical barrel connector and being sure I was unpinning the correct cables). On the bright side this kept me from having to code anything since the ipod system ran off the same cd changer format. If anyone needs help with uninstallation let me know as I found little info other than a picture of what fiber cable to remove from earlier in this thread. Pic below showing the power tap cables/clips I unpinned as well. This freed up a lot of space behind the unit.


4: My carplay randomly shows "demo software" in the bottom right (see pic). It goes away after a reboot but randomly comes back. Anyone else seen this?


5: Someone else just mentioned this. Entering the passcode to change the bootloading logo in factory settings doesn't come up as an option for me either, even when you click into factory settings. Did this go away for the dsp models? Not super important since most of the time the system is already completly booted up before I even turn on the car.

6: Has anyone else experimented with higher quality mics? I saw one member said a shop put an unamed high spec one in and it was great. I tried a gorund noise isolator with the one that comes with the kit and it actually made it worse (don't know much about mics) Ignore the mounting location in the pic... glovebox would not install with it there. See #7.


7: I spent over an hour trying to figure out where to mount the box so it is easily accessible. I found I could gently nudge the passenger footwell vents to the right and get the unit between the left side of the vent and the large wire loom along the trans tunnel all the way in the back-left corner of the footwell. This way I only need to undo the two torx screws and unclip the footwell light to remove the footwell panel and access the unit.

8: Happy to report I have not yet encountered any of the early issues found like bass loss or crackling/popping

[Adam M]

FYI, after my struggles getting my system to work due to an open most ring (which prevents pictures displaying btw, not just sound which I expected) I contacted technical support at MR12V for help. Apart from the time difference meaning I had to contact them early, they were very helpful - impressively so, confirming the above about the most ring.

I took the opportunity to ask if they were going to have an oem mic solution, to which they confirm that it was planned for development soon.

[Jbpoore]

No I never got it to work correctly. I can only toggle to the left or right, the scroll feature does not work any more. I did finally manage to get it into Mr. 12 volt screen and car play works but I can navigate through any menu with the Idrive controller. My son has this car with him at college. He left it here with me for a couple of week after Christmas to do some maintenance on it. Ironically I got his tires rotated and anew alignment, and you cant get into the menu of the car to reset the TPMS because the I-drive control will not scroll. I am beyond frustrated with the system. Back up camera I installed works like a champ. You can unsafely you use your phone to scroll through the apps you can at least use the screen to see maps and things in car play. Also the screen and audio drop out every minute or so while driving. I wanted to install this system as a saftey feature to use maps and carplay. I made it unsafe because he has to hold is phone in his hands and switch between apps and his music. I do not know what to do at this point

[Jbpoore]

I just logged back into to read through the post to see anyone else figured out a fix for the issue I have had with the MR12volt system. My car is a 2011 335is and its is a little different but not the audio system and I drive (CIC) so I have no idea why I have had so many problems with this system. I drive controller on clicks left and right, scroll doesn’t not work when connected to 12volt harness. Screen flashes in and out while using. This is the second system, Mr12volt mailed me a replacement, first one the harness would never give an audible snap into the CIC controller, second one at least did that. My son has still used it but he rides with just stuck in CarPlay mode and uses his phone to switch between apps. I made his car unsafe by installing this system for him which was the opposite of what I was trying to do.

[Adam M]

What are the current recommended audio settings on the dsp and, are these with the cic audio set to flat?

I have the individual/premium system but I’m concerned about what happens to the stock audio outside of CarPlay audio settings.

[Adam M]

15 band graphic equalizer on the MR12V and however many on the premium audio and nobody has any recommended settings for the combination?

[Adam2JZZZ]

Has anyone managed to find a better microphone ?

[DavesZed]

Originally Posted by Adam M

15 band graphic equalizer on the MR12V and however many on the premium audio and nobody has any recommended settings for the combination?

Having neither myself I can't give a recommendation. But, I'd say it's really down to personal preference and the type of music you like listen to. More low end, more high end etc
Alas I don't have the equalizer option on my iDrive and I bought the Mr12volt just one week prior to them releasing the Blue box with the additional built-in equalizer, but saying that mine sounds fine as it is

[DavesZed]

Originally Posted by Adam2JZZZ

Has anyone managed to find a better microphone ?

Well this is my post, on this thread, regarding using the OE microphone and a Y cable...
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=649

Now I do use the iDrive OE Bluetooth for calls, so I have no issues there, and then for talking to Siri or Google this seems to pick my voice up fine with the Y cable and same microphone. I have tested it with a Bluetooth phone call before (I called my work mobile and left a message to listen back to) and the voice pick-up wasn't good, but it does seem to work OK for Siri and Google, so that's how I use it.

Assuming you do have OE Bluetooth, then this is a good way to work it anyway.
My reasoning for that is that if you have the Bluetooth connection to Mr12volt for calls, but you just happen to be listening to the radio at the time a call comes in then you'd have to switch back to Mr12volt before you can answer it, otherwise you wouldn't be able to hear them talking. With using the OE Bluetooth then you can answer a call without having to do anything else because it takes over any other operation you are currently using.